Oil Question

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Yup

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Hey all, just wondering what type of synthetic to run. I've been using NAPA syn for 5k miles about every 6 months. Pretty typical driving, 12 miles to work and back, some road miles on weekends. I'm wondering if the NAPA syn is stout enough given the fact that last week I drove for a quarter mile down a gravel road and in temps over 90 degrees. I was also thinking I'd get on it more often on green lights. Maybe rev it to like 3-4K RPMs before shifting. It's a Civic. I might even push it over 70 on the highway. It's been a while since I waxed it so I'm also thinking the increased drag from a non-uniform body might be hampering the aerodynamics and creating more drag and engine load. Should I change every 3-4K or upgrade to a FRAM Ultra and Royal Purple 15w50 given the extremes my car is seeing? I'm really worried a synthetic oil won't be able to take my hard driving.

If you made it this far, I'm sorry. I need a break from BITOG. I keep thinking half the posts are satirical.
 
It took me about two sentences, then I got it lol! Yes sir, you are correct. You live in MN, so you're forgetting about all the days you have to start your car when its 0°.
 
Synthetic "Oil" is better than petroleum and will have no problem handling your driving, and it's not extreme by any stretch of the imagination. I think you have scared yourself with all the seemingly conflicting posts. A good NAPA (synthetic media) filter and any syn oil will do very well. In fact a good "Regular" oil would be good enough for your OCI and driving habits. I would want to ensure the engine reaches operating temp on your drive to work in the winter. That's very important but probably superfluous as it should easily reach normal operating temp by 12 miles. But if not try blocking part of the radiator.
 
Originally Posted By: Yup
Hey all, just wondering what type of synthetic to run. I've been using NAPA syn for 5k miles about every 6 months. Pretty typical driving, 12 miles to work and back, some road miles on weekends. I'm wondering if the NAPA syn is stout enough given the fact that last week I drove for a quarter mile down a gravel road and in temps over 90 degrees. I was also thinking I'd get on it more often on green lights. Maybe rev it to like 3-4K RPMs before shifting. It's a Civic. I might even push it over 70 on the highway. It's been a while since I waxed it so I'm also thinking the increased drag from a non-uniform body might be hampering the aerodynamics and creating more drag and engine load. Should I change every 3-4K or upgrade to a FRAM Ultra and Royal Purple 15w50 given the extremes my car is seeing? I'm really worried a synthetic oil won't be able to take my hard driving.

If you made it this far, I'm sorry. I need a break from BITOG. I keep thinking half the posts are satirical.


You definitely need a high strength moly impregnated full synthetic HDEOQRX oil, at least 2 grades heavier than specified in the manual, but with a 0w rating for your winter cold starts. Alternately you could use the new 0w16 oil in your Honda. Your choice but make sure to use a Purolator filter, as OEM doesn't flow enough for your hard driving application....
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: Yup
Hey all, just wondering what type of synthetic to run. I've been using NAPA syn for 5k miles about every 6 months. Pretty typical driving, 12 miles to work and back, some road miles on weekends. I'm wondering if the NAPA syn is stout enough given the fact that last week I drove for a quarter mile down a gravel road and in temps over 90 degrees. I was also thinking I'd get on it more often on green lights. Maybe rev it to like 3-4K RPMs before shifting. It's a Civic. I might even push it over 70 on the highway. It's been a while since I waxed it so I'm also thinking the increased drag from a non-uniform body might be hampering the aerodynamics and creating more drag and engine load. Should I change every 3-4K or upgrade to a FRAM Ultra and Royal Purple 15w50 given the extremes my car is seeing? I'm really worried a synthetic oil won't be able to take my hard driving.

If you made it this far, I'm sorry. I need a break from BITOG. I keep thinking half the posts are satirical.


You definitely need a high strength moly impregnated full synthetic HDEOQRX oil, at least 2 grades heavier than specified in the manual, but with a 0w rating for your winter cold starts. Alternately you could use the new 0w16 oil in your Honda. Your choice but make sure to use a Purolator filter, as OEM doesn't flow enough for your hard driving application....


Does Redline make a 0w70 for my application? I worry, with my radio blaring, the alternator will have to charge the battery more and cause extra load on the engine. Or should I just drive without the radio on?
 
Originally Posted By: bvance554
It took me about two sentences, then I got it lol! Yes sir, you are correct. You live in MN, so you're forgetting about all the days you have to start your car when its 0°.


I moved. But still have MN cause I'm too lazy to update. Do they make a 0w0 yet?
 
I hear that German Castrol with AutoRX mixed with Kreen with a now beloved orange can of death works the best, as long as your K&N air filter oil isnt mixed in with your 4000qt oil stash.
 
Originally Posted By: Yup


Does Redline make a 0w70 for my application? I worry, with my radio blaring, the alternator will have to charge the battery more and cause extra load on the engine. Or should I just drive without the radio on?


You're in luck, Redline does indeed make a 70WT oil. It will stand up to the full fury of alternator-induced load on your engine, for up to four full seconds..
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Yup
Hey all, just wondering what type of synthetic to run. I've been using NAPA syn for 5k miles about every 6 months. Pretty typical driving, 12 miles to work and back, some road miles on weekends. I'm wondering if the NAPA syn is stout enough given the fact that last week I drove for a quarter mile down a gravel road and in temps over 90 degrees. I was also thinking I'd get on it more often on green lights. Maybe rev it to like 3-4K RPMs before shifting. It's a Civic. I might even push it over 70 on the highway. It's been a while since I waxed it so I'm also thinking the increased drag from a non-uniform body might be hampering the aerodynamics and creating more drag and engine load. Should I change every 3-4K or upgrade to a FRAM Ultra and Royal Purple 15w50 given the extremes my car is seeing? I'm really worried a synthetic oil won't be able to take my hard driving.

If you made it this far, I'm sorry. I need a break from BITOG. I keep thinking half the posts are satirical.


Sell the car, buy a bike. All problems related to driving, oil, filters etc. solved
 
If going down a gravel road for more than 3/8th of a mile in temps above 86*f, you really need a thick oil to protect the wrist pins. I'd suggest 85w-140.
But make sure you have 0w-16 and a drain pan in the car so you can change it out when you get back on paved roads.
 
1. Don't forget the cardboard in front of the radiator to help wth the warm up time of your engine and heater.

2. Run your tires at the maximum recommended air pressure.

3. Remove your air filter as the air up where you live is so clean it doesn't need filtration.

4. Consider changing jobs so that you will be able to drive at least 20 miles on way to allow your engine to warm up completely in order to minimize sludge build up.

5. install a used rear spoiler to reduce aerodynamic drag.

6. Since you are running a synthetic, consider running a quart low. Just get level to where it touches the bottom of the dip stick. This will minimize engine drag and save you a lot of money considering only RedLine, Amsoil or Royal Purple are able to operate and protect your engine at this extreme.

I have more suggestions. Let me know once you have implemented these and I'll give you some that you may consider "over the top."
 
Be sure your tires are gravel rated and air them up so they are as hard as the gravel your traveling on.
When temps reach 90, that's what the AC is for.
Be sure to add rock polishing compound in with the oil if you plan on doing this on a routine basis in case gravel gets in the engine so to keep things polished nicely.
As far as oil, any riding mower or ATV oil (used tested oil) with rock polishing compound and your fine.
Keep your oil about 12-13 gallons above the full mark. Check level every 120k, its life time so no worry changing it or the filter.
Remove the air filter and it will never get dirty (this is a sleeper tip).
Keep a tow strap handy, rated for Prius duty.
Be sure to saturate your vehicle with "OFF" to keep the bugs away (another sleeper tip). Keeps em off your burger to.
Thank us after all said and done.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Yup
Originally Posted By: bvance554
It took me about two sentences, then I got it lol! Yes sir, you are correct. You live in MN, so you're forgetting about all the days you have to start your car when its 0°.


I moved. But still have MN cause I'm too lazy to update. Do they make a 0w0 yet?


I think they're working on that, but its synthetic, and contains no petroleum... So they say.
 
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