what to use on shotgun stocks

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bradepb

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I recently was given a Sears model 200 12 GA. and a Winchester model 190 .22 both from the late 60's and both in mint condition possibly even unfired. The stocks are in great shape but seem dry and unprotected.
So what do I use to freshen and preserve?

Also got an H&R model 1908 single shot 12GA. with stocks that are dark and sticky or oily. I need to use something for a good clean without damage.
Thanks
 
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Originally Posted By: vintageant
Same as for cricket bats: linseed oil


I use BOILED linseed oil on axe handles after I strip the varnish. Boiled linseed isn't as likely to form a gummy varnish. I apply it over and over until it wont soak up anymore and the grip starts to loose the look and feel of wood, I guess its a composite at that point. I see a lot of people disliking that finish but for me, once the surface is hardened, its neither slippy or tacky plus it works well with gloves and for me that's important. The only downside I see is that it takes a long time, the old adage of "Apply once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for the rest of your life" I find pretty accurate and Ive seen references to it taking up to 6 months to get a solid surface.
 
If there is no varnish or lacquer on them, as others have mentioned use boiled linseed oil or tung oil (real tung oil, not the off the shelf Formbys or Minwax "tung oil finish"). You can thin it with some mineral spirits (which can be used to clean the wood prior to the oil). Let it penetrate for 15 to 20 minutes and wipe off the extra. You can repeat this the next day if you want. Let it cure for about a week and then you can seal it with something like Johnsons or Minwax paste wax to help give some added protection against soiling/staining.

It is important to dispose of any boiled linseed oil soaked rags properly. They contain dryers that can make the rags combust. I always soak them in water and lay them out flat on a concrete surface to dry. If you bunch them up and throw them in a trash can, they can catch fire.
 
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Remember, this guy said he wants to, "freshen and preserve" his stocks.... Not refinish them. There is a big difference. When you want to preserve your cars finish, you wax it. You don't repaint it.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Remember, this guy said he wants to, "freshen and preserve" his stocks.... Not refinish them. There is a big difference. When you want to preserve your cars finish, you wax it. You don't repaint it.


If putting a little linseed oil or tung oil on an oil finished stock is refinishing them...then GI's were always refinishing their Springfields in the field. Indeed the military called this "redressing" and not refinishing. Your comparison to cars is apples vs organges.
 
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Well I used WD-40 on the older gummy stock and it worked pretty well.
I think I may go with a light coat of paste wax on the ones that are in great shape other than appearing a little "dry" since I don"t know what is already there and all I want is a little protection.
thanks for the suggestions
 
So in the 1960's gun stock makers in the big factories were already using catalyzed varnish for stock finishes. Think Remmigton and Weatherby and some of their super glossy stocks. We don't know who made the Sears unit w/o research ...

The Winchester was prolly a Tung Oil finish as they were still doing oil finishes about that time. The H&R almost certainly has an oil finish (tung or BLO...).

Each will take something different to get it where the OP wants. I've used Murphy's Soap to clean with. I've used WD-40 to clean with. I've used Lemon Oil to rejuvenate dried wood and put a wipe-on Tung Oil over it to seal the stock.

each technique is different. But I'd start by wiping down with Lemon Oil (from a woodworkers supply store) to clean and get a feel for the actual wood condition. It should come out nice and satiny w/o gloss, and no staining through the hair-line checks and cracks in the old finish. Then you know what you are working with
smile.gif
 
Problem with many "lemon oil" products are that they are simply mineral oil with lemon scent. That is why I suggest mineral spirits. It will wet the wood and show you the condition and often mimic to a degree what the wood looked like oiled until it flashes off, and it leaves no residue behind. I use it often when looking for any swirl patterns in wood I have been using an oribital sander on.
 
Great thread.I have an early 20's Iver Johnsons, and a 1917, and 1948 Model 1912. Sounds like Mineral spirits followed by "Real" Tung oil.
 
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Boiled Lindseed Oil, old english wood oil, ballistol or straight mineral oil in that order. Once the wood is re-hydrated you can use a light coat of wood paste wax to help seal it in.
 
I am not a fan of products that are mineral oil (scotts gold, old english, most lemon oil or orange oil products) based on the fact they never cure. Mineral oil has also historically been used as a firearm lube, and if you have ever seen what happens to nice double gun stocks that soaked up mineral oil lubes, you would not want your stock soaked in it. There is a reason many people used to store them muzzle down versus muzzle up ( to keep the lube from running down into the wood via gravity). Oil that doesn't cure can soften wood which on hard recoiling guns can cause them to crack or break eventually.

Use an oil that cures
 
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