95 Caprice 5.7l LT1 55k- Valve cover- sludge!

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I had a 93 1/2 GMC with a 4.3 V6 I got in trade from a landscape company. It had about 115k iirc. Very poorly maintained and the engine was full of that hard cruddy [censored]. I pulled the valve covers and cleaned off them off, going so far as to sand some of it off...the heads were still covered though. Long story short, I ran the truck on vwb at 5k oci for another 150k before the valve covers came off again and when they did, the heads were clean...all from the oil and filter doing its job.

Nothing special about vwb...just suggesting you drive it and start to maintain it properly and let nature run its course.
 
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Still think it's not bad?

Yes, I still think it's not bad. It's about on par with lots of other vehicles that age or older. It's not the ticking bomb others are trying to convince you it is. But picking at it and loosening it up with a screwdriver is not a good idea, that's for sure.

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Yeah, just continue on with some 10k OCIs because apparently changing it more frequently won't do a single thing.
smirk.gif


Which is not what anyone here is saying, but nice try.
 
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Still think it's not bad?





Three thoughts come to bear:

1. It's not bad enough to worry about. I've seen much worse.
2. You are asking for trouble by trying to "clean" it
3. You aren't going to be happy unless you do.

There is one person above with personal experience, id suggest listening to what he said.
IOW ... Just drive it and change the oil.

Regular maintenance is the cure for past neglect.
 
I've got to admit I had to look at your picture three times because I just didn't see a ton of sludge...I mean I've seen better, but I've also seen a whole lot worse.

I wouldn't worry about it too much, like others have said...just shorten the oil change intervals and use a oil that is known for its cleaning properties.
 
That is nasty. I bought an old Dodge 318 that was the same. I also took off the valve covers and there was lots of sludge. I suggest taking the oil pan off. It was easy on the old Dodge. It was full of sludge. I just used a can of Wynn's Tune up and it helped clean and free up the rings. It was like a new engine in a few oil changes. I bet your rings are coated in the [censored] too.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
The short OCI cleanup is probably the best way to deal with it. And if it's still not clean enough after that, you can always do another short OCI.

Napa Synthetic is still on sale for $2.99/qt, which is the price of PYB dino, and maybe a full syn might be better to use for a cleaning short OCI? Napa also has a couple engine flush things, both their own house brand Mac's, and Liqui-Moly.


This was my thought. NAPA syn FTW!

Also, after being on here for so long, thought I'd mention that a FRAM Ultra will probably fix all issues with it. FRAM Ultras will not only magically remove that sludge but they'll also keep your tire pressure constant and stop coolant from leaking.

But seriously, I'd run the NAPA or M1 with rebate synthetic. Same price as Yellow Bottle right now, probably better oils. Or we could debate if they're better...
 
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Still think it's not bad?





Yeah, had a buddy in HS with a slugged 318 carbureted 1970s van. We chipped tons of sludge out. Thing still runs. Oil type won't clean that [censored] out...only sharp instruments. Also, it ran OK for being sludged. Nothing would've cleaned it out. Not even the best oil. Not even brake cleaner. Stuff was like concrete in there. After chipping a lot out, it idled smoother and that was it. Just throw Napa or rebate m1 syn in, follow manual, and you'll be fine. If the engine blows it won't be because you didn't use PYB for 1k intervals with a SuperTech filter.
 
Originally Posted By: FastLane
That is nasty. I bought an old Dodge 318 that was the same. I also took off the valve covers and there was lots of sludge. I suggest taking the oil pan off. It was easy on the old Dodge. It was full of sludge. I just used a can of Wynn's Tune up and it helped clean and free up the rings. It was like a new engine in a few oil changes. I bet your rings are coated in the [censored] too.


Just saw this. Those engines, carbureted for sure, were sludge monsters. We used to punch it down in driveway with ATF in crankcase and legit CHUNKS of carbon would come out the exhaust. The years before catalytic converters
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Yup
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
The short OCI cleanup is probably the best way to deal with it. And if it's still not clean enough after that, you can always do another short OCI.

Napa Synthetic is still on sale for $2.99/qt, which is the price of PYB dino, and maybe a full syn might be better to use for a cleaning short OCI? Napa also has a couple engine flush things, both their own house brand Mac's, and Liqui-Moly.


This was my thought. NAPA syn FTW!

Also, after being on here for so long, thought I'd mention that a FRAM Ultra will probably fix all issues with it. FRAM Ultras will not only magically remove that sludge but they'll also keep your tire pressure constant and stop coolant from leaking.

But seriously, I'd run the NAPA or M1 with rebate synthetic. Same price as Yellow Bottle right now, probably better oils. Or we could debate if they're better...


Yeah, I figured since I'll be doing short OCI's I'd go for something that's on sale or has a rebate. In this case I went for the 2 for 1. Havoline 10w30 is on sale at walmart online for $10.44 and it also has a $5 rebate till 8/31. So I got 5 qts for $5.44 (not including tax).
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Any API SN 10W-30 oil at 3000 mile OCI will clean it nice and slow - the way you want to do it. Might take 20k miles or more to get it clean, don't be in a hurry. Emphatic NO to Seafoam. As others have stated, it's not that bad - I've seen much, much worse on the same engine.



IIRC the water pump on those is driven off the cam, unlike the belt-driven Small Block Chevy. The sludge doesn't look too bad to me either. The LT-1 is a very strong running engine and will make that Impala get up and go.
 
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Originally Posted By: CharlieBauer
Whatever your opinion, you'd be nuts not to monitor the oil and oil filter.

That's why I suggested putting in a cheap but well constructed solid filter (basic Wix / Napa), and cutting it open at 1000 miles or maybe sooner.

And if it's loading up quickly, run a high capacity, high quality filter after that.

I think it's bad. Apparently others here don't though.


Its just that many of us have seem much much worse than that.
 
It's surely not great, but if it runs good and doesn't make funny noises... what's done is done. Take care of it now and don't mess with any "quick fixes in a can" that can clog things up later..
 
My last truck had a Chevy 305 that was sludged up way worse than that. I had the valve covers off, scrapped off everything I could and sucked it up with a shop vac. I refilled with cheap oil and drove it around for an hour and dumped the oil and filter. I think I refilled with Rotella or Valvoline Maxlife and changed that after 1000 or 1500 miles. Then I just changed it every 3000 with whatever synthetic I had on hand.
Put 50k miles on that truck and the transmission finally went at 194k, engine still ran good.

Its very common for those small block chevys to accumulate sludge in those head bolt depressions.
Using a good synthetic helps alot!
 
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Originally Posted By: Yup
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
The short OCI cleanup is probably the best way to deal with it. And if it's still not clean enough after that, you can always do another short OCI.

Napa Synthetic is still on sale for $2.99/qt, which is the price of PYB dino, and maybe a full syn might be better to use for a cleaning short OCI? Napa also has a couple engine flush things, both their own house brand Mac's, and Liqui-Moly.


This was my thought. NAPA syn FTW!

Also, after being on here for so long, thought I'd mention that a FRAM Ultra will probably fix all issues with it. FRAM Ultras will not only magically remove that sludge but they'll also keep your tire pressure constant and stop coolant from leaking.

But seriously, I'd run the NAPA or M1 with rebate synthetic. Same price as Yellow Bottle right now, probably better oils. Or we could debate if they're better...


Yeah, I figured since I'll be doing short OCI's I'd go for something that's on sale or has a rebate. In this case I went for the 2 for 1. Havoline 10w30 is on sale at walmart online for $10.44 and it also has a $5 rebate till 8/31. So I got 5 qts for $5.44 (not including tax).


I'd pick up some Rislone there too, maybe a couple of bottles. I'd add one the last 500 miles of an OCI and the next one perhaps half way through and definitely monitor the oil...
 
Originally Posted By: Yup
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Still think it's not bad?





Yeah, had a buddy in HS with a slugged 318 carbureted 1970s van. We chipped tons of sludge out. Thing still runs. Oil type won't clean that [censored] out...only sharp instruments. Also, it ran OK for being sludged. Nothing would've cleaned it out. Not even the best oil. Not even brake cleaner. Stuff was like concrete in there. After chipping a lot out, it idled smoother and that was it. Just throw Napa or rebate m1 syn in, follow manual, and you'll be fine. If the engine blows it won't be because you didn't use PYB for 1k intervals with a SuperTech filter.


If the valve cover was that bad in that splash-lubricated area I can imagine what the oil pan looked like..
 
Originally Posted By: TheExpectorate
Originally Posted By: Yup
Originally Posted By: gallydif
Still think it's not bad?





Yeah, had a buddy in HS with a slugged 318 carbureted 1970s van. We chipped tons of sludge out. Thing still runs. Oil type won't clean that [censored] out...only sharp instruments. Also, it ran OK for being sludged. Nothing would've cleaned it out. Not even the best oil. Not even brake cleaner. Stuff was like concrete in there. After chipping a lot out, it idled smoother and that was it. Just throw Napa or rebate m1 syn in, follow manual, and you'll be fine. If the engine blows it won't be because you didn't use PYB for 1k intervals with a SuperTech filter.


If the valve cover was that bad in that splash-lubricated area I can imagine what the oil pan looked like..



Most likely fine. Oil pans don't accumulate sludge as quick or as easily due lower temps and higher amoutside of oil movement. The oil sludged up in the head bolt pockets because of a mixture of several possible things. Running too cold will put fuel in the oil, which adds volatility and lowers the flash point. He also had a defective crankcase ventilation system which allows vapors to sit and form deposits. Then put it in a hot area where it can sit and bake and you get hard, crusty deposits.

Really this much a due over very little at all. I've seen WAY worse. Just remove what you see and motor on.
 
I would de grease the underside of the Valve Covers to get it clean, run a 5 min oil flush, then run rotella T5 10w30 and 5K OCI. I did this when I got my beater and the oil on the dipstick stays cleaner longer. Now I use cheap syn blend oil and it runs normal.
 
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