Pick a jack

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I know there is another thread, but this one's mine.
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What jack do I need to lift my truck when it's on a dirt driveway? I've got a piece of waste 3/4" plywood so I think I am willing to get a floorjack; I figure, I need at least an 8" lift range, but I need to lift up at least 16". I could put a block of wood onto the jack.

The aluminum HF is tempting, but I'm not sure those wheels will handle being tossed into the dirt. The steel one looks better for my needs, 'cept I will hate lugging 70lb around. Needs to be able to handle sitting on dirt or snow, not while lifting but just from handling.

[Am tired of using a too-short bottle jack.]
 
I have a Northern Tool 2.0 ton aluminum "racing" jack I got on sale for 70 bucks. You pretty much have to use a piece of plywood under the jack or you could tweak it in the gravel. I've used it to lift the back end of my pickup truck (enough to put stands under the axle tubes) and it does fine for the occasional backyard mechanic. I would suggest getting something aluminum (or partially alum) just because it will be easier to carry and handle.
 
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Buy a Jack-All (Canada; 36, 48 and 60" height, 8000 lb capacity) or the US-made equivalent (HI-Lift?), although I must say that, having used both, the Jack-All is the superior tool.

Anything else is a waste of effort.

Besides, it can do a number of other jobs (lifting buildings, docks, pulling fence posts, etc).

If you insist on using something lightweight, then carry a scissor jack. I actually carry two in my Miata, they're light and cheap and work very well on any terrain. But the truck gets a Jack-All.

36, 48 and 60" height, 8000 lb capacity.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
Buy a Jack-All (Canada) or the US-made equivalent (HI-Lift?), although I must say that, having used both, the Jack-All is the superior tool.

Anything else is a waste of effort.

Besides, it can do a number of other jobs (lifting buildings, docks, pulling fence posts, etc).

If you insist on using something lightweight, then carry a scissor jack.


I'm not sure how I'd use that Hi-Lift on the front end. Quick look does not reveal how I'd use it there.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
Buy a Jack-All (Canada) or the US-made equivalent (HI-Lift?), although I must say that, having used both, the Jack-All is the superior tool.

Anything else is a waste of effort.

Besides, it can do a number of other jobs (lifting buildings, docks, pulling fence posts, etc).

If you insist on using something lightweight, then carry a scissor jack.


I'm not sure how I'd use that Hi-Lift on the front end. Quick look does not reveal how I'd use it there.


Check your owner's manual, every truck has lift points in or under the bumper. You should know where they are in the first place, so regardless of what you buy, find out where they are on your particular vehicle.
 
I've read the manual before, and the lift points are axle or frame, not front bumper. There are tow hooks but I don't think they are strong enough.

Just scanned the manual.

It's a bit of a bear lifting so far back from the front--I usually lift on the frame more forward, but still behind front axle centerline.

Edit: doing some looking, with stock bumpers I'd have to lift from the tire to use a Hi-Jack.
 
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I would get a 3 ton or more jack and lift the one side of the truck from the "front" jack point. I hate doing a corner at a time and every car I've had with a rear sway bar seems to lift the rear tire with the front raised an extra few inches. My old Tracker had no rear sway and I had to do each front separately but lifted the rear all at once from the dif housing.
 
Hi-Lifts are nice and everything but are extremely dangerous vs a standard jack so that's the trade off. I absolutely needed the Hi-Lift jack when putting on my lift and it was the scariest thing ever
 
Yeah, I saw some warning about them. An interesting tool, but not one that I have much need for. Honestly, a bottle jack serves me pretty well, I just need a bigger one with 8" of range. I might just get that from Walmart, it's like $40 and has 8" of lift.
 
Can you scan the service manual for the truck? I am very surprised that you have not been able to find the center lift points (front and rear) for that vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Can you scan the service manual for the truck? I am very surprised that you have not been able to find the center lift points (front and rear) for that vehicle.


Didn't think of that. Then again, not sure why I need to look for center lift points...

Here are the lifting points from the repair manual.

Does look like there is a center lift point up front, in addition to the rear. Not sure where that is, next time I'm underneath I'll look. Probably a crossmember in that area.

Doesn't change the fact that I still need a jack; and center point jacking would be beyond scary while using a bottle jack.
 
I agree with you that you need a good floor jack to use the center point lift points. If you are working on the brakes or rotating tires etc, having both wheel off the ground makes it more convenient. For some reason, I thought you wanted to move to good floor jack for that ability but you probably never stated that!
 
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3 ton Craftsman jack with jack stands and a creeper for $99, back on sale at Sears. My brother has this set we use on his Jeep all the time. Our only complaint is it sometimes lets the car down too fast so you've gotta twist real slow.

I'll post this in Product Rebates, Sales, and Promotions section too.

2gucuba.jpg


Link
 
Regardless of having the plywood, I would get the widest thing possible.

That said, it'll probably be the heaviest too.

The largest aluminum jack at HF might be worth a consideration. I prefer it over the Larin 3.5 ton model.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I agree with you that you need a good floor jack to use the center point lift points. If you are working on the brakes or rotating tires etc, having both wheel off the ground makes it more convenient. For some reason, I thought you wanted to move to good floor jack for that ability but you probably never stated that!


No, I did state I was after a floor jack; but I wasn't planning on doing center lifting--lift each corner as needed, drop onto a jack stand. When I jack up it's to do a tire rotation and check the brakes, and sometimes spray Fluid Film.

*

I decided to do my tire rotation yesterday; my 2 or 3 ton bottle jack managed, just barely enough lift. I measured it afterwards and... 5.25" of lift range. Geez, most any larger bottle will exceed that, as I can see from their specs. Will just pick up one of those I think.

*

Nick, that's a nice find, but unless if I plywood the drive way the creeper is kinda useless to me.
frown.gif
It's a good deal and I'd love to grab it, but I just don't have space for stuff I don't use.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I agree with you that you need a good floor jack to use the center point lift points. If you are working on the brakes or rotating tires etc, having both wheel off the ground makes it more convenient. For some reason, I thought you wanted to move to good floor jack for that ability but you probably never stated that!


No, I did state I was after a floor jack; but I wasn't planning on doing center lifting--lift each corner as needed, drop onto a jack stand. When I jack up it's to do a tire rotation and check the brakes, and sometimes spray Fluid Film.

*

I decided to do my tire rotation yesterday; my 2 or 3 ton bottle jack managed, just barely enough lift. I measured it afterwards and... 5.25" of lift range. Geez, most any larger bottle will exceed that, as I can see from their specs. Will just pick up one of those I think.

*

Nick, that's a nice find, but unless if I plywood the drive way the creeper is kinda useless to me.
frown.gif
It's a good deal and I'd love to grab it, but I just don't have space for stuff I don't use.
Cheaper than most, and it comes with a free creeper. You could give it away
 
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