SO much cheaper to do brakes yourself..

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JTK

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Aug 14, 2003
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Buffalo, NY
Our 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan was due this month for it's yearly State safety and emissions inspection. Given I was short on time I made an appointment at our local Dodge dealer's quick service dept.

Awhile back I had done a tire rotation on the van at home and did a visual on the brakes. All looked very well. Fast forward to inspection day, they failed it on worn rear brakes. The dealer wanted ~$430 for rear pads and rotors. Gasping at the price, I asked the service adviser if they could bring the cost down by using aftermarket parts. He said sure! I'll call Napa... That came back a whole $1.20 cheaper for the whole job. LOL!

I had them button the van back up, paid the $21 for a failed NY State inspection and I headed home. Again being pressed for time and wanted to get this done, I thought I try the busy mom and pop tire/repair shop up the road that I've used many times. They were able to get me in that afternoon. Sure enough. Failed. The mechanic brought me in one of the almost worn to the metal rear brake pads (inside pads were shot). Long story short, not wanting to go through a 3rd inspection, I had them replace the rear pads and rotors to the tune of $350 so I could get the new NYS inspection sticker put on the darn van. In almost 30yrs of vehicle ownership, I've always done brakes myself and I'm pretty sure I'll stay on top of that better from now on. I could have done all 4 brakes myself for less than that.

Surprisingly, the gap does seem to be shrinking between dealer service cost and independent shop cost.
 
Yes, dealer costs are a real hit and miss. I find at least here, they're very competitive with tires. Other things, you need to be a bit cautious. Tire rotations on my G37 are too expensive at the dealer (I just do them myself anyhow), since they add a TPMS reset, which is not needed on the vehicle, since the TPMS doesn't differentiate between wheel position.

I just did the front brakes on the G37, pads and rotors and calipers, and I have a feeling it would have been a lot more problematic at the dealer or an independent, not to mention more expensive. I leave the brakes for shops when they're really rusty.
wink.gif
 
Re: the cost gap

I wouldn't base that theory on one example like this. Just look at the labor rate of the shops and you'll normally see a huge difference. For a brake job (a quick job) they were close. Get a job with a lot of billable hours and forget about it.
 
Originally Posted By: CapitalTruck
Re: the cost gap

I wouldn't base that theory on one example like this. Just look at the labor rate of the shops and you'll normally see a huge difference. For a brake job (a quick job) they were close. Get a job with a lot of billable hours and forget about it.


True. I didn't notice the $ labor rate at the dealer, but my local shop is $90/hr now! Yikes.
 
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
That's not a bad price if they used quality parts.


Are you serious? The absolute best pads you can buy aren't more than $80 a set so the other ~$300 is all labor!

And being disc brakes, the pad change takes all of 20 mins...
 
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Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
That's not a bad price if they used quality parts.


Are you serious? The absolute best pads you can buy aren't more than $80 a set so the other ~$300 is all labor!

And being disc brakes, the pad change takes all of 20 mins...


The ~13" rear rotors are just under $60/ea. It's about ~$170 in parts for the rear pads/rotors.
 
Not to mention how often plenty good rotors are pulled off and machined down thinner.
 
It is cheaper, but the last time I changed a caliper I spent hours (literally hours) trying to get it to bleed--only to have it magically start working once I started driving it. ???? Haven't figured that one out yet, but I know I won't get back those hours of my life either.

Still have a non-OEM caliper on there that I'm not sure what to do about. Need to change the pads soon, maybe I should try changing the caliper. Again. Or not...

I like to pull the brakes once/year and lube all the sliding surfaces, and to check for pad delamination. I've caught two cases of delamin in the past 10 years--after having a pad fall off. It's a great time to also pull out the Fluid Film and reach some spots which I can't get to when I crawl under.
 
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
That's not a bad price if they used quality parts.


Are you serious? The absolute best pads you can buy aren't more than $80 a set so the other ~$300 is all labor!

And being disc brakes, the pad change takes all of 20 mins...


Carbon Lorraine pads are a lot more expensive than £80/set. A LOT more.

Agreed though, he got ripped off!
 
You need to shop around more for a mechanic. I see ASE mechanics on Craigslist all the time in the $30-$50 range. Had one of them do my front brakes for $50, I supplied the parts. Took him a little over an hour.

I was at the Mercedes dealer once and I heard one of the service advisers telling someone that front brakes and rotors would be $980.
 
Did a front brake job, including bleeding and lubing everything up and doing an A+ job:

Rotors: $25 ea, Pads: $40.

Took 2.5 hours because I had to do it in the street so I had to load tools, 80LB garage jack etc.

Dealer would probably charge $500+ for the same job, not to mention the 15% taxes extra I'd be paying on the over-inflated parts prices and the tax on the Labor.

DIY ftw.

SUPTON, sometimes the ABS module cycles to help firm up the pedal.

After a brake job I like to activate the ABS on a gravel road by hitting the brakes a few times, makes the pedal feel alot stiffer.
 
Originally Posted By: Falken
SUPTON, sometimes the ABS module cycles to help firm up the pedal.

After a brake job I like to activate the ABS on a gravel road by hitting the brakes a few times, makes the pedal feel alot stiffer.


I ran the pump, twice, after running a quart through the system. Ran another quart. Pedal refused to come off the floor UNTIL I attempted to drive it. I rolled forward a foot and the pedal came off the floor halfway. I took a spin, made ABS engage on a dirt road, pulled a bit more fluid afterwards and it is mostly normal again.

I'm afraid to buy another caliper ($225) and do the job again, then again, now that I know it might need to roll forward maybe I'll be ok? I really don't want to replace both calipers ($225 each! ouch!) but I do like having working brakes.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
It is cheaper, but the last time I changed a caliper I spent hours (literally hours) trying to get it to bleed--only to have it magically start working once I started driving it. ???? Haven't figured that one out yet, but I know I won't get back those hours of my life either.

Still have a non-OEM caliper on there that I'm not sure what to do about. Need to change the pads soon, maybe I should try changing the caliper. Again. Or not...

I like to pull the brakes once/year and lube all the sliding surfaces, and to check for pad delamination. I've caught two cases of delamin in the past 10 years--after having a pad fall off. It's a great time to also pull out the Fluid Film and reach some spots which I can't get to when I crawl under.


Buy Speed Bleeders for each corner, about $25. You won't have problems bleeding brakes again.

I don't think too many "premium" shops (ones who know what they are doing, hire Journeyman Mechanics) turn rotors anymore; it's just too inexpensive these days to replace with new. Aside from brake jobs being one of the nastier tasks you can DIY, brake fluid and corrosion being what they are, there is no reason you can't do them yourself, use premium parts, and come out dollars ahead. Plus you KNOW the job was done right (or at least done your way ;-) ).

And finally there is so much you should be aware of with regard to wheels, suspension, ball joints, tire wear, rubber and urethane parts, greasing, and the like where it's a matter of inspection that can be done at the same time for an extra five minutes time per wheel, you wonder why anyone goes to a shop for that job. (Okay, well, Brake Fluid is horrible stuff. So maybe I do know, but I'm sticking my fingers in my ears and going la la la ... ).

But you know what, I'll bet you know someone who would do it for you, offer them $50 cash and I'll bet they'll say yes.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
You need to shop around more for a mechanic. I see ASE mechanics on Craigslist all the time in the $30-$50 range. Had one of them do my front brakes for $50, I supplied the parts. Took him a little over an hour.......

This is the feasible middle ground IF you can find a competent mechanic that you trust. There's a lot of hacks out there also. I have a "personal mechanic" who is a certified professional dealer mechanic that moonlights for about $40/hour (cash). While he can supply the parts, he encourages me to buy them myself and only pay his labor. He did my Caravan timing belt/waterpump/etc. with OEM parts for $800. The dealer quote was $1600 and independents about $1300(using aftermarket parts). I take care of "my" mechanic well with tips/perks because he is so valuable to me. I never take advantage of him by excessive frugality. He takes care of me in return. One has to accept the risks of this arrangement also.

JTK is also right about the dwindling difference between dealers and independents. The overhead to stay up to date on vehicle technology is staggering.
 
People doing this sort of work professionally need to make a living as well. Why is it so hard to understand that? Also different places will charge different rates because their particular circumstances/locations are all different. It's the same as people living in areas where $40k/year means they live comfortably, but there are places where that same $40k/year will mean living just above the poverty line. What's so hard to understand that as well?
 
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Some folks just think no one should profit from their biz. Crazy.

I have a guy I use strictly for diagnostics. He comes over, we ride around in a truck and he tells me what's up, maybe a printout,etc.

Then we have a nice adult beverage and I order some parts and fix it myself...
 
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