Toyota Sequoia - Back passenger rim is HOT

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2001 Toyota Sequoia - 218,000 miles. This past week I walked around the back of my vehicle after driving 30 minutes and felt a lot of heat on my legs from the rear passenger tire and rim. I put my hand down to feel it and it was VERY hot. I thought I had a stuck caliper or something. My brakes pads needed replaced so today I replaced all 4 sets of pads and lubed up the slider pins. Nothing looked out of the ordinary except the pads on that tire were rather thin compared to the other rear set. I checked the brake fluid level and the color was good (not dirty or dark) and after new pads it was slightly high. I removed enough to get it just below the MAX line. I took it for a test drive and that rim is still getting hot.

I thought it could be the emergency/parking brake but I followed the line and it looks like it only goes to the rear drivers side tire and that is not the one getting hot. Even if there was an parking brake stuck, I'm not sure how to remedy that.

I don't know what else to check but I'm concerned that a long drive like I usually make on the highway is going to set that tire ablaze!

Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Did you spin the wheels when off the ground to see if one was dragging more and to listen for noise? Sure sounds like a dragging brake or maybe a wheel bearing starting to drag (higher friction) and go out which might cause heat build up.
 
Does your truck have "Drum-in-hat" emergency brakes?

Sometimes when you remove and install rotors you can damage the drum-in-hat emergency brake components. Since all those components are between the rotor and the backing plate, you can't always see if you damaged something in the process.
 
I didn't spin the wheels to specifically listen for anything. I've not noticed any noise or any dragging sensation and the vehicle doesn't pull to that side. The only symptom is excessive heat.

I didn't notice but is there a grease zerk that I could top off in this area of the vehicle? Thanks for the quick reply!
 
I don't know what drum in hat is so I can't answer that. There is a turn buckle under theB post frame area that is part of the emergency/parking brake. it has slight play in it but it wasn't sagging low but thats what got me wondering about the parking brake. This issue started before I changed my brake pads, I just did that since I was going to take the tires off to look at this issue anyways.

Thanks for the reply!
 
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OK, so aside from greasing the slider pins and the fluid level is good, what can I do or do I need to just replace the caliper? it is a high mileage vehicle and a new caliper is only 50-60 bucks. While I'm not normally an advocate for throwing parts at a problem, it's not an expensive part, it's part of a vital system in my vehicle and I'm concerned about the extreme heat. Thank you for your reply.

I just reread your reply and you said E brake and I missed the E part. So is this a DIY thing? If I can change my brakes I assume I can fix this issue? I'm not even sure how to access it.
 
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Spin the wheels. It doesn't take much of a dragging brake to create some heat after some miles of driving. If one is slightly dragging you'd never detect it while driving the vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
You need to rebuild/replace the calipers.


+1 My Toyotas always last to about 200k on the factory calipers as long as I flush the brake fluid 2-3 times. But beyond that it's hit or miss. Your ebrake might be stuck as well. Best pull off the whole rotor assembly and have a look. If everything is working spin the wheel and see if you have a bad bearing.

Make sure you replace calipers in pairs.
 
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Failing caliper as well as a puking wheel bearing are your likely culprits.
A failing brake hose will provide the same symptom, so be aware.
 
There is a small hole on front of disc with a starwheel behind it to adjust the parking brake parking brake adjust

You might be rusted up or some other version of. I've had a couple issues with the parking brake on Sequoia and Sonata (both hat/drum inside rotor). On the Sequoia I also had issues with ripped caliper slide boots and also swollen caliper slide pin boots using one of the synthetic greases (there are posts here on BITOG I think regarding the grease issue).

I bought new caliper slide pins and boots and Syl-Glide as many recommend here (still might try molykote77 next time) and all seems good now. Beware that only one caliper slide gets a "full" boot/sleeve and the other is just a rubber cap. Pay attention which is which when removing. My only real issues on both cars have come from rusted caliper slide pins etc. The rubber boots need to slip into a groove on the caliper slide bolt and also into the caliper itself. Search tundrasolutions and you're almost guaranteed to find detailed pictures of the problems.

As mentioned also possible collapsing brake hoses at this point in life of your SUV.
 
On a my Corolla and Sonata all the parts that move slightly (star wheels, autoadjusters, levers etc.) all got dirty/rusty and started to hang up. These were on cars that the parking brake is used daily unlike the Sequoia.

When I did rear brakes last on Sequoia (rotors and pads) I went for full disassemble on the parking brake also and wire brushed everything and used grease and or anti-seize on the moving parts. Parking brake works great now as well as regular brakes. I also do a brake flush every 2 years or so. Sequoia is an '03 with 130k.
 
Originally Posted By: Tlhfirelion
I don't know what drum in hat is so I can't answer that. ...


It refers to a system where the parking brake is actuated by a separate set of shoes that are inside the center "hat" of the rotor.

It is actually pretty common and a quick google seems to indicate it is the set up that a Sequoia uses.
 
My Tundra (which I suspect has a similar brake system) recently seized a rear caliper, despite being young and low miles. Corrosion on the piston.

I bought two calipers at Autozone but had to return the one for the side that wasn't defective--poor reman. I also had a devil of a time getting the thing bled.
 
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
The thin pads lead me to believe that the ebrake is sticking on that side.


+1 That was what I was thinking too. Side note, my wife's family has a place on Saranac Lake. Love ADKS.
 
We have a winner! I checked and rechecked everything and couldn't find the answer so I called a friend of the family who is a retired mechanic. He took a look and said that he almost positive it's the brake line trapping pressure as everything else is working normally. So, I had to order the part and it'll be installed tomorrow. If by some slim chance it's not that, I'll report back. Thank you to everyone who replied with an answer. It is appreciated!
 
Yah, check the E-brake cables . The cables on the Ranger were rusted solid and partially engaging the both brakes It was enough to heat up the bearings and stink of 80/90 diff lube.
 
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