Nice beater! I love '91-'01 Explorers.
Brought home a beater today
- Thread starter exranger06
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Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Nice beater! I love '91-'01 Explorers.
Me too! I was wondering when you were going to show up.
Nice beater! I love '91-'01 Explorers.
Me too! I was wondering when you were going to show up.
Haha, yeah, work has been nuts this week, but I try not to miss an Explorer/Ranger thread.
I like the color, I think that is Amazon Green. Ford had a lot of nice greens in the 1990s; my 1995 Explorer was Willow Green, on the interior too, and my 1994 Ranger is Cayman Metallic.
I think for that year the OHV 4.0L is a plus over the SOHC, and whatever the ignition problem is probably won't be too hard to figure out. I really like these engines. I have had two, and they have both been great. My '94 Ranger has its original 4.0 and recently averaged 22 MPG on a 1500+ mile trip with over 180K miles on it. My '95 Explorer Sport 4.0 would get MPG in the 20s on the highway too...if rust had not eaten it up, I would still have it.
Keep us posted with what you find on the ignition issue. Around town MPG isn't great, but other than that Explorers make the best beaters. Comfortable, tough, and reliable is a pretty good combo.
I like the color, I think that is Amazon Green. Ford had a lot of nice greens in the 1990s; my 1995 Explorer was Willow Green, on the interior too, and my 1994 Ranger is Cayman Metallic.
I think for that year the OHV 4.0L is a plus over the SOHC, and whatever the ignition problem is probably won't be too hard to figure out. I really like these engines. I have had two, and they have both been great. My '94 Ranger has its original 4.0 and recently averaged 22 MPG on a 1500+ mile trip with over 180K miles on it. My '95 Explorer Sport 4.0 would get MPG in the 20s on the highway too...if rust had not eaten it up, I would still have it.
Keep us posted with what you find on the ignition issue. Around town MPG isn't great, but other than that Explorers make the best beaters. Comfortable, tough, and reliable is a pretty good combo.
The no-start issue has me stumped. I made a thread about it on explorerforum, but haven't gotten a useful answer yet. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/wont-start-no-spark.449384/
I'm thinking it's a bad crank sensor, even though I just replaced it (cheap Autozone part, maybe defective?) I think I might order a Motorcraft sensor from Rockauto and hope that that fixes it.
But before I can get to that, I have to figure out how to open the hood. It opened fine last week, now it's apparently stuck. Pulling the lever under the dash doesn't do anything.
I'm thinking it's a bad crank sensor, even though I just replaced it (cheap Autozone part, maybe defective?) I think I might order a Motorcraft sensor from Rockauto and hope that that fixes it.
But before I can get to that, I have to figure out how to open the hood. It opened fine last week, now it's apparently stuck. Pulling the lever under the dash doesn't do anything.
Cable broke ...
I hate to say it, but odds are the problem is not a crank sensor if a new one didn't fix it, even a cheapo aftermarket. There's just not much to go wrong there...if a new one has the same symptoms, it's probably something else. I'd check the wiring for damage, and check the connections at the PCM and elsewhere in the engine harness for issues.
My 1994 Ranger 4.0 was having intermittent starting issues and would sometimes run bad. It would throw CELs, but not for the same thing. I threw a crank sensor at it, which did nothing, so I started checking connections. I found a lot of dirt and some corrosion at the computer connector, so I cleaned that out with CRC and Napa Mac electrical connector cleaner (basically aerosol rubbing alcohol), and put a coating of dielectric grease on the gasket in the connector. I also opened the computer and sprayed the whole board down, but I don't know that I'd try that on an OBD2 truck. In my case, that did the trick. The truck has run perfect since (about 9000 miles). I was prepared to put a computer in it, which is why I was willing to spray the board down with cleaner, but in my case the cleaner worked. I would at least unbolt that connector and make sure it's clean.
Any resistance when you pull the handle for the hood, or is it just slack?
My 1994 Ranger 4.0 was having intermittent starting issues and would sometimes run bad. It would throw CELs, but not for the same thing. I threw a crank sensor at it, which did nothing, so I started checking connections. I found a lot of dirt and some corrosion at the computer connector, so I cleaned that out with CRC and Napa Mac electrical connector cleaner (basically aerosol rubbing alcohol), and put a coating of dielectric grease on the gasket in the connector. I also opened the computer and sprayed the whole board down, but I don't know that I'd try that on an OBD2 truck. In my case, that did the trick. The truck has run perfect since (about 9000 miles). I was prepared to put a computer in it, which is why I was willing to spray the board down with cleaner, but in my case the cleaner worked. I would at least unbolt that connector and make sure it's clean.
Any resistance when you pull the handle for the hood, or is it just slack?
I got the hood open. The cable is fine. The latch was binding up for some reason. I'll spray some lube on it and the rest of the door latches. They're all a little sticky.
Time for an update I suppose...I've been busy with work and haven't had too much time to work on this, but I've been tinkering with it here and there. It's still not running, but it's getting closer. I got the no start/no spark issue figured out: it's a bad ECM. Which is really odd because ECMs in these trucks rarely fail for no reason, but it happened to this one. I did a LOT of troubleshooting until I was 2,000% sure (I am now an expert on Ford ignition systems
) because I was really hoping the ECM was not the problem (I'll explain why in a moment).
So basically the problem was the computer was not telling the coil to fire because it wasn't receiving a signal from the crank sensor. Except it WAS receiving a signal from the crank sensor; the crank sensor and all the wiring to it was perfectly fine, and the signal was getting to the computer. The computer was acting like it wasn't getting a signal even though it was. Hence bad computer.
Now I already bought and installed another used/junkyard ECM (eBay find - only $18.00 with free shipping
) Now that the new ECM is installed, I have spark once again. But the engine still doesn't start. I knew this was going to happen, and this is why I was hoping it wasn't a bad ECM all along. It's because of the PATS (anti-theft) system. The new ECM doesn't recognize the chip in the ignition key. The ECM needs to be reprogrammed to accept my existing key. Which only a Ford dealer, or possibly an independent shop, can do (very expensive fancy computer equipment required). This means I need to rent a car dolly again and tow my dead Explorer to a shop. Yay, that'll be fun.
While I was working on the no-start issue, I also fixed a bunch of minor things, which I'll talk about in the next post. I'll also talk about my plans for the truck. But this post is long enough, and my phone is about to die, so I'll end it here for now.
So basically the problem was the computer was not telling the coil to fire because it wasn't receiving a signal from the crank sensor. Except it WAS receiving a signal from the crank sensor; the crank sensor and all the wiring to it was perfectly fine, and the signal was getting to the computer. The computer was acting like it wasn't getting a signal even though it was. Hence bad computer.
Now I already bought and installed another used/junkyard ECM (eBay find - only $18.00 with free shipping
While I was working on the no-start issue, I also fixed a bunch of minor things, which I'll talk about in the next post. I'll also talk about my plans for the truck. But this post is long enough, and my phone is about to die, so I'll end it here for now.
Other things I've done to it for little or no money:
I removed the driver's side running board since it was all rotted out. And since the passenger side running board was already missing (most likely also due to rot), it's now symmetrical.
Although there's still one bracket on the truck that I still need to remove. I need to take a grinder to one of the bolts to get it off.
Installed new hood struts/lift supports. Now I don't have to prop the hood open with a piece of pipe any more.
Reinstalled the front license plate bracket. It was sitting in the back seat when I brought it home.
Replaced some burnt out light bulbs: front turn signal, dome light, both license plate bulbs
Ripped out aftermarket alarm system - If I left it installed, I would've been opening myself up for electrical problems down the road, and after seeing the hack job wiring on it, I'm VERY glad I removed it. Plus, I don't think anyone is going to try to break into this car. I also fixed all the butchered up wiring the installer did.
Fixed the high beams - found a blown fuse. Someone had swapped in a 5 amp fuse when there should've been a 15 amp, so no wonder it blew. Although I don't know why the fuse was swapped in the first place. I'll have to keep an eye on it and see if the 15 amp fuse ever blows. But it's fixed for now.
On the to-do list: Get the ECM reprogrammed and get the engine running!
Compression test to get an idea of the general health of the engine. I'll replace the spark plugs while I'm there. If the engine doesn't look good, I'll probably clean it up and sell it. But I'm getting the ECM reprogrammed regardless. It's worth way more as a running, driving vehicle. I'll probably make a profit if I can sell it running.
If the engine looks good, she's a keeper! I'll also need to fix some other things at that point: a broken parking brake cable, a broken gear indicator on the dash, and the battery cables have those cheesy clamp-on "repair" terminals on them, which I'll replace. It will also need two new tires soon, and I should inspect the brakes and suspension and see if anything needs to be done there.
Maintenance items I'll also do: fuel and air filters, change out all fluids, and give a good cleaning inside and out.
I removed the driver's side running board since it was all rotted out. And since the passenger side running board was already missing (most likely also due to rot), it's now symmetrical.
Installed new hood struts/lift supports. Now I don't have to prop the hood open with a piece of pipe any more.
Reinstalled the front license plate bracket. It was sitting in the back seat when I brought it home.
Replaced some burnt out light bulbs: front turn signal, dome light, both license plate bulbs
Ripped out aftermarket alarm system - If I left it installed, I would've been opening myself up for electrical problems down the road, and after seeing the hack job wiring on it, I'm VERY glad I removed it. Plus, I don't think anyone is going to try to break into this car. I also fixed all the butchered up wiring the installer did.
Fixed the high beams - found a blown fuse. Someone had swapped in a 5 amp fuse when there should've been a 15 amp, so no wonder it blew. Although I don't know why the fuse was swapped in the first place. I'll have to keep an eye on it and see if the 15 amp fuse ever blows. But it's fixed for now.
On the to-do list: Get the ECM reprogrammed and get the engine running!
Compression test to get an idea of the general health of the engine. I'll replace the spark plugs while I'm there. If the engine doesn't look good, I'll probably clean it up and sell it. But I'm getting the ECM reprogrammed regardless. It's worth way more as a running, driving vehicle. I'll probably make a profit if I can sell it running.
If the engine looks good, she's a keeper! I'll also need to fix some other things at that point: a broken parking brake cable, a broken gear indicator on the dash, and the battery cables have those cheesy clamp-on "repair" terminals on them, which I'll replace. It will also need two new tires soon, and I should inspect the brakes and suspension and see if anything needs to be done there.
Maintenance items I'll also do: fuel and air filters, change out all fluids, and give a good cleaning inside and out.
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Other things I've done to it for little or no money:
I removed the driver's side running board since it was all rotted out. And since the passenger side running board was already missing (most likely also due to rot), it's now symmetrical.
Although there's still one bracket on the truck that I still need to remove. I need to take a grinder to one of the bolts to get it off.
Installed new hood struts/lift supports. Now I don't have to prop the hood open with a piece of pipe any more.
Reinstalled the front license plate bracket. It was sitting in the back seat when I brought it home.
Replaced some burnt out light bulbs: front turn signal, dome light, both license plate bulbs
Ripped out aftermarket alarm system - If I left it installed, I would've been opening myself up for electrical problems down the road, and after seeing the hack job wiring on it, I'm VERY glad I removed it. Plus, I don't think anyone is going to try to break into this car. I also fixed all the butchered up wiring the installer did.
Fixed the high beams - found a blown fuse. Someone had swapped in a 5 amp fuse when there should've been a 15 amp, so no wonder it blew. Although I don't know why the fuse was swapped in the first place. I'll have to keep an eye on it and see if the 15 amp fuse ever blows. But it's fixed for now.
On the to-do list: Get the ECM reprogrammed and get the engine running!
Compression test to get an idea of the general health of the engine. I'll replace the spark plugs while I'm there. If the engine doesn't look good, I'll probably clean it up and sell it. But I'm getting the ECM reprogrammed regardless. It's worth way more as a running, driving vehicle. I'll probably make a profit if I can sell it running.
If the engine looks good, she's a keeper! I'll also need to fix some other things at that point: a broken parking brake cable, a broken gear indicator on the dash, and the battery cables have those cheesy clamp-on "repair" terminals on them, which I'll replace. It will also need two new tires soon, and I should inspect the brakes and suspension and see if anything needs to be done there.
Maintenance items I'll also do: fuel and air filters, change out all fluids, and give a good cleaning inside and out.
I really don't like to give unsolicited advice, but I feel like it has to be at least suggested: You might not want to fix anything else until you get the engine running.
Other things I've done to it for little or no money:
I removed the driver's side running board since it was all rotted out. And since the passenger side running board was already missing (most likely also due to rot), it's now symmetrical.
Installed new hood struts/lift supports. Now I don't have to prop the hood open with a piece of pipe any more.
Reinstalled the front license plate bracket. It was sitting in the back seat when I brought it home.
Replaced some burnt out light bulbs: front turn signal, dome light, both license plate bulbs
Ripped out aftermarket alarm system - If I left it installed, I would've been opening myself up for electrical problems down the road, and after seeing the hack job wiring on it, I'm VERY glad I removed it. Plus, I don't think anyone is going to try to break into this car. I also fixed all the butchered up wiring the installer did.
Fixed the high beams - found a blown fuse. Someone had swapped in a 5 amp fuse when there should've been a 15 amp, so no wonder it blew. Although I don't know why the fuse was swapped in the first place. I'll have to keep an eye on it and see if the 15 amp fuse ever blows. But it's fixed for now.
On the to-do list: Get the ECM reprogrammed and get the engine running!
Compression test to get an idea of the general health of the engine. I'll replace the spark plugs while I'm there. If the engine doesn't look good, I'll probably clean it up and sell it. But I'm getting the ECM reprogrammed regardless. It's worth way more as a running, driving vehicle. I'll probably make a profit if I can sell it running.
If the engine looks good, she's a keeper! I'll also need to fix some other things at that point: a broken parking brake cable, a broken gear indicator on the dash, and the battery cables have those cheesy clamp-on "repair" terminals on them, which I'll replace. It will also need two new tires soon, and I should inspect the brakes and suspension and see if anything needs to be done there.
Maintenance items I'll also do: fuel and air filters, change out all fluids, and give a good cleaning inside and out.
I really don't like to give unsolicited advice, but I feel like it has to be at least suggested: You might not want to fix anything else until you get the engine running.
Originally Posted By: glock19
I really don't like to give unsolicited advice, but I feel like it has to be at least suggested: You might not want to fix anything else until you get the engine running.
I already said I'm not doing anything else until I get it running and a compression test done. All of the things I fixed so far I did mostly because I was bored and they didn't cost me any money. All of the things I listed that will be done (fresh fluids, tires, parking brake cable, etc) are things I will do AFTER the engine is running and only IF the compression looks good. If compression doesn't look good, truck will be sold for a small profit.
I really don't like to give unsolicited advice, but I feel like it has to be at least suggested: You might not want to fix anything else until you get the engine running.
I already said I'm not doing anything else until I get it running and a compression test done. All of the things I fixed so far I did mostly because I was bored and they didn't cost me any money. All of the things I listed that will be done (fresh fluids, tires, parking brake cable, etc) are things I will do AFTER the engine is running and only IF the compression looks good. If compression doesn't look good, truck will be sold for a small profit.
Glad you have it figured out and know the next step.
OHV 4.0s are usually pretty solid engines in my experience. A compression test is a good idea with the miles though.
Any history on the transmission? I'd check it out when you get it running too. 1999 was one of the years that could have valve body gasket issues, but it's not a huge thing to fix.
OHV 4.0s are usually pretty solid engines in my experience. A compression test is a good idea with the miles though.
Any history on the transmission? I'd check it out when you get it running too. 1999 was one of the years that could have valve body gasket issues, but it's not a huge thing to fix.
Don't know anything about the transmission. Fluid looks pretty brown. It'll get a fluid change if the engine checks out ok.
So another update: I towed it to the dealer this week and had the computer reprogrammed and had another key made. (They needed 2 keys to do the reprogramming, and I only had one. But I wanted to get a spare key anyway.) The engine starts and runs now. I didn't run it long, because it has a massive radiator leak and I didn't want it to overheat. I just ran it long enough to get it back on the tow dolly and get it home, and again getting it off the dolly and parked at my house again. Lucky for me, I just happen to have a brand new Motorcraft radiator sitting in my garage, that I got for FREE almost a year ago (long story), and it just happens to fit this Explorer!
The dealer also did the recall for the cruise control switch while it was there. When I got it back home, I was running late for a doctor's appointment, so I parked it and left. I didn't have time to do anything with it since then. Stay tuned...
So another update: I towed it to the dealer this week and had the computer reprogrammed and had another key made. (They needed 2 keys to do the reprogramming, and I only had one. But I wanted to get a spare key anyway.) The engine starts and runs now. I didn't run it long, because it has a massive radiator leak and I didn't want it to overheat. I just ran it long enough to get it back on the tow dolly and get it home, and again getting it off the dolly and parked at my house again. Lucky for me, I just happen to have a brand new Motorcraft radiator sitting in my garage, that I got for FREE almost a year ago (long story), and it just happens to fit this Explorer!
The dealer also did the recall for the cruise control switch while it was there. When I got it back home, I was running late for a doctor's appointment, so I parked it and left. I didn't have time to do anything with it since then. Stay tuned...
Glad to hear it runs!
Update time: I've been slowly working on this when I have time, trying to get it ready to drive before the snow flies. I'll admit this truck needed more work than I initially realized. But, I've been having fun fixing it up and I'm committed at this point. Even after all this work, I'm still only about $800 into it so far. I hereby name this truck the Junkyard Refugee, since it was destined for the junkyard before I agreed to take it home, and maybe should've gone there afterall
.
So far I have replaced: radiator, lower hose, fresh coolant
Rear ABS sensor (another freebie I had laying around the garage)
Passenger side upper control arm (bad ball joint)
both rear parking brake cables
parking brake shoes and hardware
brake line on rear axle
Still on the to-do list:
Reinstall diff cover and fill with fresh fluid. (replacing the parking brake shoes is MUCH easier without the axle shafts in the way)
Bleed the brakes/do a full brake fluid flush and finish reassembling the rear brakes
Replace coolant temp sensor (gauge on dash doesn't work)
Fix the exhaust leak right where the passenger side manifold bolts to the Y pipe. It's throwing the o2 sensor off and making the computer throw a lean code. It won't pass emissions with that code, so I need to fix that before getting it registered. I bought an oxy-propane torch to help me get the bolts loose.
Replace the spark plugs
Get 2 new tires and get an alignment done.
Drop the transmission pan and do a fluid/filter change and see what's making the trans shift funny. I'll try to limp it along for this winter, then get it rebuilt in the spring if I have to.
And finally, install the new front seats I just scored today. This Explorer has side-impact airbags built into the front seats, which was a fairly uncommon option during these years. A previous owner replaced the driver's seat for some unknown reason, and the replacement seat does not have an airbag. So the airbag light on the dash is always on and blinking. So I started searching for another seat that does have an airbag to fix it. After searching all over the internet and realizing that seats with airbags are pretty rare, I almost gave up hope. Then I went to my local pull-it-yourself junkyard yesterday. They said they weren't showing anything on their inventory (I already checked online and knew that) but they said they might have an Explorer with seats that aren't on the inventory. The yard was already closed for the day, so I came back this morning and searched through the yard. At the back corner of the lot, I found a 2nd gen Explorer. My heart fluttered at the sight of it. I checked it out, and the seats did not have airbags. Darn. Then I spotted a Mountaineer a few cars over. I look through the window and it had very nice leather seats. Could it be...? Yes! They have airbags!
They are also power adjustable seats, which my Explorer doesn't have, but it shouldn't be hard to wire them up. I had to move the seat up to access the rear bolts, and since they're power, I needed to have a battery hooked up. I didn't bring a battery. But there just happened to be a battery sitting in the back seat! I think God really wanted me to have these seats
. I hooked up the battery and I was able to move the seats and unbolt them. I originally just wanted a driver's seat, but I figured I might as well grab the passenger side too and have them match. These seats are in pristine condition! I hauled them back to the front desk. $50 each. Sold! I think going to the junkyard is my new favorite hobby. I had a lot of fun hunting down my parts and was super excited to find them. I might go back this weekend and see what else I can find.
So far I have replaced: radiator, lower hose, fresh coolant
Rear ABS sensor (another freebie I had laying around the garage)
Passenger side upper control arm (bad ball joint)
both rear parking brake cables
parking brake shoes and hardware
brake line on rear axle
Still on the to-do list:
Reinstall diff cover and fill with fresh fluid. (replacing the parking brake shoes is MUCH easier without the axle shafts in the way)
Bleed the brakes/do a full brake fluid flush and finish reassembling the rear brakes
Replace coolant temp sensor (gauge on dash doesn't work)
Fix the exhaust leak right where the passenger side manifold bolts to the Y pipe. It's throwing the o2 sensor off and making the computer throw a lean code. It won't pass emissions with that code, so I need to fix that before getting it registered. I bought an oxy-propane torch to help me get the bolts loose.
Replace the spark plugs
Get 2 new tires and get an alignment done.
Drop the transmission pan and do a fluid/filter change and see what's making the trans shift funny. I'll try to limp it along for this winter, then get it rebuilt in the spring if I have to.
And finally, install the new front seats I just scored today. This Explorer has side-impact airbags built into the front seats, which was a fairly uncommon option during these years. A previous owner replaced the driver's seat for some unknown reason, and the replacement seat does not have an airbag. So the airbag light on the dash is always on and blinking. So I started searching for another seat that does have an airbag to fix it. After searching all over the internet and realizing that seats with airbags are pretty rare, I almost gave up hope. Then I went to my local pull-it-yourself junkyard yesterday. They said they weren't showing anything on their inventory (I already checked online and knew that) but they said they might have an Explorer with seats that aren't on the inventory. The yard was already closed for the day, so I came back this morning and searched through the yard. At the back corner of the lot, I found a 2nd gen Explorer. My heart fluttered at the sight of it. I checked it out, and the seats did not have airbags. Darn. Then I spotted a Mountaineer a few cars over. I look through the window and it had very nice leather seats. Could it be...? Yes! They have airbags!
Good work and please keep us updated sir
I have seriously considered getting a 2dr Explorer Sport for a beater project. Most of them are 2wd, but some are 4wd. I have a family member who has auction access, so I look at the reports from time to time. 2dr just always struck me for some reason. Apparently, according to interwebs, fitting a V8 and 4wd is not off the shelf possible in the Sport. Some 4.0's came with 4wd from factory, and V8 for RWD is pretty straight forward swap. Dreams of a V8 swamp buggy/beach comber/rock crawler in a 2dr Exploder aside, the 4.0 is pretty decent. If my shop access was better, I'd probably be more inclined. (Of course I'd probably still have the Disco2 if that were the case.)
Thanks for keeping the thread updated, good looking truck. Hope you can get some more miles out of it...
Thanks for keeping the thread updated, good looking truck. Hope you can get some more miles out of it...
Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
I have seriously considered getting a 2dr Explorer Sport for a beater project. Most of them are 2wd, but some are 4wd. I have a family member who has auction access, so I look at the reports from time to time. 2dr just always struck me for some reason. Apparently, according to interwebs, fitting a V8 and 4wd is not off the shelf possible in the Sport. Some 4.0's came with 4wd from factory, and V8 for RWD is pretty straight forward swap. Dreams of a V8 swamp buggy/beach comber/rock crawler in a 2dr Exploder aside, the 4.0 is pretty decent. If my shop access was better, I'd probably be more inclined. (Of course I'd probably still have the Disco2 if that were the case.)
Thanks for keeping the thread updated, good looking truck. Hope you can get some more miles out of it...
I had a 1995 Sport 4x4 and loved it, but unfortunately it was destroyed from 13 years in the rust belt. If it had been a Southern truck, I would definitely still have it. Super comfortable, great off road, and super reliable. You could certainly put a 5.0L in if you want, but the Cologne OHV 4.0L is an excellent engine which is probably why you don't see too many 5.0L Explorer Sports compared to 5.0L Rangers. I have had 2 OHV 4.0s and it's simply a great engine for this platform.
I have seriously considered getting a 2dr Explorer Sport for a beater project. Most of them are 2wd, but some are 4wd. I have a family member who has auction access, so I look at the reports from time to time. 2dr just always struck me for some reason. Apparently, according to interwebs, fitting a V8 and 4wd is not off the shelf possible in the Sport. Some 4.0's came with 4wd from factory, and V8 for RWD is pretty straight forward swap. Dreams of a V8 swamp buggy/beach comber/rock crawler in a 2dr Exploder aside, the 4.0 is pretty decent. If my shop access was better, I'd probably be more inclined. (Of course I'd probably still have the Disco2 if that were the case.)
Thanks for keeping the thread updated, good looking truck. Hope you can get some more miles out of it...
I had a 1995 Sport 4x4 and loved it, but unfortunately it was destroyed from 13 years in the rust belt. If it had been a Southern truck, I would definitely still have it. Super comfortable, great off road, and super reliable. You could certainly put a 5.0L in if you want, but the Cologne OHV 4.0L is an excellent engine which is probably why you don't see too many 5.0L Explorer Sports compared to 5.0L Rangers. I have had 2 OHV 4.0s and it's simply a great engine for this platform.
I got the rear axle refilled with fresh oil. I got the brakes reassembled and the fluid flushed. I spent all day yesterday working on the exhaust leak. Unbolting the Y-pipe from the manifold is a huge pain. I broke one of the bolts, and I rounded the head on the other when it was almost out. So I cut it off. Then I had to remove the manifold to get the bolt remnants out. Thankfully none of the studs in the cylinder head broke. However to remove the manifold, I had to shove the Y-pipe back an inch or so. And since it's firmly bolted to the other manifold, the only way to get the passenger manifold out is to unbolt the Y-pipe from the driver's manifold as well.
I broke one of the bolts on the driver's side manifold as well. The other bolt reluctantly came out after getting the manifold red hot with the torch, and even then, I needed a cheater pipe and breaker bar. So removing the bolt took a long time, and the manifold eventually cooled down and the bolt was almost impossible to turn again. I had to heat it up a second time to get it out. The threads on the bolt were destroyed. I was finally able to remove the passenger side manifold after that. I got one of the bolts out of it using vise grips. The other needs to be drilled or blasted out with a torch. My cutting tip for the torch hasn't arrived yet, and my drill bits barely made a dent in it. So I dropped it off at a machine shop. It should be ready later today.
And since I broke a bolt in the driver's side manifold too, I need to remove that one as well. I didn't have the correct size wrench to unbolt the EGR tube, so I didn't do that yet. I'll be picking up a wrench today. Once I get both manifolds out, I'm drilling out the threads in them and using bolts and nuts! I never want to deal with threaded holes in manifolds again!
Since I was at a standstill with the exhaust, I decided to switch gears and work on getting the new seats in. I had already removed both of the old seats a few days ago. Yesterday I did most of the wiring for the power adjustment. I just need to get a fuse holder and hook it up under the hood. I want to clean the carpet before putting the new seats in. It's a little gross. That's all for now...
I broke one of the bolts on the driver's side manifold as well. The other bolt reluctantly came out after getting the manifold red hot with the torch, and even then, I needed a cheater pipe and breaker bar. So removing the bolt took a long time, and the manifold eventually cooled down and the bolt was almost impossible to turn again. I had to heat it up a second time to get it out. The threads on the bolt were destroyed. I was finally able to remove the passenger side manifold after that. I got one of the bolts out of it using vise grips. The other needs to be drilled or blasted out with a torch. My cutting tip for the torch hasn't arrived yet, and my drill bits barely made a dent in it. So I dropped it off at a machine shop. It should be ready later today.
And since I broke a bolt in the driver's side manifold too, I need to remove that one as well. I didn't have the correct size wrench to unbolt the EGR tube, so I didn't do that yet. I'll be picking up a wrench today. Once I get both manifolds out, I'm drilling out the threads in them and using bolts and nuts! I never want to deal with threaded holes in manifolds again!
Since I was at a standstill with the exhaust, I decided to switch gears and work on getting the new seats in. I had already removed both of the old seats a few days ago. Yesterday I did most of the wiring for the power adjustment. I just need to get a fuse holder and hook it up under the hood. I want to clean the carpet before putting the new seats in. It's a little gross. That's all for now...
Yesterday I reinstalled the passenger side manifold and removed the driver's side manifold. I'll need the machine shop again to remove the bolt from the driver's manifold, so I'm at a standstill again with the exhaust for this weekend. I also vacuumed, scrubbed, and steam cleaned the carpet. It's nowhere near perfect, but it's a lot better than it was.
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