Replacing lower control arm Sienna - MFG opinions

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Originally Posted By: stephen9666
I don't think a pre-greased joint will be exploding with grease, necessarily.

As another member said, Taiwan is usually far better than China. I wonder where the OE parts would have been made? Who knows if the OE supplier has a factory in Taiwan? Car parts come from all over the world, now.

I was only looking for a bit of boot firmness ... it just seemed scant for a new joint.

I think Taiwan would be decent, but really have no way to tell. I recall bike frame welding moving from Japan to Taiwan in the 80's ... and all of the welds on this control arm seemed robust. Maybe in 5 more years after heaps of these Sienna control arm bushings are failing, they will sell the bushing only. The other rationale for not selling the rear bushing only is that when the rear fails, it places extra tension on the front bushings and I suspect would wear them prematurely. I still think it's a poor design.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav

I'm a little surprised about the arm being made in Taiwan but its a lot better than China.


It seems Raybestos is sourcing some of its imported car parts from Asia these days. My suspicion is Raybestos is having the parts private-labeled for them by other companies that specialize in foreign car parts. That's just a guess, of course.

I emailed Raybestos to find the COO of ball joints for my Hyundai. They told me Korea, which is where the OE parts are from.
 
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
I wonder where the OE parts would have been made? Who knows if the OE supplier has a factory in Taiwan? Car parts come from all over the world, now.

And that's the dilemma - as it's hard to know if spending the $$$ for a Toyota OEM control arm would be of any benefit?
 
Ok, for someone who is NOT going to diy, i want to understand the discussion above before I make a move. I must have both bushings replaced on my 2004 Sienna. Do I understand correctly that 1)I should order the Raybestos parts, and 2)do i order the entire arm or just the bushings for my mechanic to install? P.S. Anyone want to come to Dallas and do this for me along with the front brakes?
 
Pre greased joints don't have much grease in them, if they were filled it might blow the boot when installed.
Made in Taiwan is okay, many companies make OEM stuff there.
Over the last decade they have become very first world in manufacturing techniques and quality.
I bought some OEM Subaru hydro lifters some were made in Japan and some were Taiwan, Quality, fit and finish were identical.

Don't return the joints from what i have seen this is normal for this type of joint. They will last, no problem.
 
The OEM arm can be purchased on-line for about 138.00 the joint is about another 40.00. Particularly if the joint isn't bad, no way I would go anything except OEM unless it can be verified they are coming from the same place.
 
What markings do the new "declining quality" MOOG parts have? Do they still say made in the USA? Ate they visibly different at all? Or is this all bull about declining quality?
 
I picked up the right control arm tonight, as it was also completed hosed. Here are pics of the old control arm from left side, as well as the new one for right Raybestos 5071854. I don't recall Raybestos 5071853 control arm having a ball joint with TRC markings?

Rear bushing left side:

IMG_0707.jpg


IMG_0704.jpg


IMG_0706.jpg


IMG_0705.jpg


And never mind the deluxe brown 80's carpet.
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Holy cow what a PITA it is to replace control arms on the Sienna. Drama at every stage: Frozen cotter pin, ball joint castle nut, ball joint itself, lower right motor frozen at top. Methinks they were a little shy on the anti-seize at the factory.
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The castle nut was removed with Pblaster, Propane/oxygen, beating with a BFH, Pblaster, MAPP/Oxygen, Pblaster ... finally it loosened.
cry.gif


The right side is a bit different, as the top motor mount needs to be removed as well as the sway bar needs to pushed aside in order to access the front bolts holding control arm to subframe.

So, if you are in the market for this vintage Sienna (2004) - do take time to inspect the rear bushings on control arms. The giveaway will likely be the improperly worn tires, from alignment loss from the damaged rear bushings.
 
Here's the right lower motor mount - that was initially firmly frozen in place. An overnight soak of PBlaster and application of a BFH finally loosened enough to remove, so reinstalling was a bit easier with it fully out of the way.

IMG_0764_zps8909f2d5.jpg


And the general crime scene (shown without motor mount)

IMG_0765_zps0410a019.jpg
 
It looks like the Raybestos rear bushing has split after 4yrs and 80K KM's, allowing vertical movement (not lateral). And now Rockauto no longer carries this part for Sienna's.

But for those reading this thread, Rockauto now carries the individual bushings for the control arm. This wasn't the case when I was purchased summer 2012.
 
I don't want to have do this job again in 5yrs time, so bought OEM Toyota control arms. Only the right side was available from Rockauto.
Here are links if you're in Canada, and I'll go with Toyota parts direct for left side

http://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/p/ARM-SU...4806908021.html

http://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/p/ARM-SU...4806808021.html

Here are the descriptions and PN's for 2004 Sienna LE control arms (without ball joints):

ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY, FRONT SUSPENSION, LOWER No.1 LEFT
Part Number: 4806908021

ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY, FRONT SUSPENSION, LOWER No.1 RIGHT
Part Number: 4806808021

EDIT: Apologies for the lack of embedded photos - Photobucket is charged now for this service so I'll need to find another host.
 
Here's the right side Raybestos control arm installed almost 5yrs ago / 100K KM's. Let's hope I have better success with Toyota OEM.


 
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Jeez, this is thread necromancy at it's worst!

You guys, start a new thread and stop f$%*ng the dead!
 
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
Jeez, this is thread necromancy at it's worst!

You guys, start a new thread and stop f$%*ng the dead!


He's updating his own post. As it should be.
 
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
Jeez, this is thread necromancy at it's worst!

You guys, start a new thread and stop f$%*ng the dead!


He's updating his own post. As it should be.


+1

Also, 5 years and 100k kilometers (60k miles) is not all too bad for an aftermarket part.
 
We purchased a 06 Sienna last year. Reading the forums for any issues to look out for pre-purchase, I came across this topic a lot on the Sienna forums.

Consensus is, which is backed by feedback from Sienna owners that have done this job, is to buy the Toyota OEM parts.

The aftermarket, no matter which brand, all lasted an average of 3-4 years before the rubber cracked again.Some of the cheaper brands were shot in as little as 6-12 months.The OEM last 10+ years and are only marginally more money.

The control arms on my 06 have some cracking in the rubber but are not cracked through or making noise. If I were doing the job, I'd spend the money on OEM, it's not a super easy job and something you want to do again in a few years.
 
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My parents have an 05 Sienna - I haven't heard of any weird sounds but should I plan on replacing these eventually? Should I even try to replace the bushings instead of the OEM arm?
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
Jeez, this is thread necromancy at it's worst!

You guys, start a new thread and stop f$%*ng the dead!


He's updating his own post. As it should be.


+1

Also, 5 years and 100k kilometers (60k miles) is not all too bad for an aftermarket part.

+100000
I've never been that lucky.
 
Originally Posted By: Huie83
Consensus is, which is backed by feedback from Sienna owners that have done this job, is to buy the Toyota OEM parts.

The aftermarket, no matter which brand, all lasted an average of 3-4 years before the rubber cracked again.Some of the cheaper brands were shot in as little as 6-12 months.The OEM last 10+ years and are only marginally more money.

The control arms on my 06 have some cracking in the rubber but are not cracked through or making noise. If I were doing the job, I'd spend the money on OEM, it's not a super easy job and something you want to do again in a few years.

All 100% agreed - it's not an easy job and saving $~75 is hardly worthwhile, considering the aggravation. It took me about 3hrs of concentrated work to do the job a 2nd time, but that was because I had used never seize and everything easily came apart.
 
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