03 accord refuses to clear BRAKE warning/codes

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2003 V6 honda accord with 175k or so. Had an 'incident' where the brake pads of the rear left I think (not the RR even though the code says RR and not sure why) were somehow discharged from the caliper, the caliper bottomed out then beyond spraying fluid everywhere, and nearly had a horrific accident last year. Got it parked, didn't get it fixed until this summer - two new rear calipers, new discs, new pads, heavily bled all four corners until fluid looked clean and without air bubbles. Properly burned in the new pads/rotors until they smoked and deposited a bit of blue on the rotor, after which they grabbed 3x as good, the ABS figured out it could work again, and everything seemed happy.

Except I have a BRAKE indicator on the dash that doesn't go away now. I erase the code with the OBD2, restart the car and it's back, repeatedly. Everything seems working even ABS and braking not pulling in any direction, proper fluid level AFAIK.

It lists one code but there's 7 subsections which I dont know if that means "could be any of these", or "these all happened in sequence", or "this is still the problem now":

ABS code 65-01
1 VSA pressure sensor failure
2 control unit circuit stuck on
3 EPS control unit failure
4 brake fluid low
5 RR initiator circuit
6 RR circuit open
7 brake fluid low


PS if it matters, when I first put things back together the parking brake was way out of alignment which originally I thought was making it stay on (not resetting some sensor that decided retracted wasnt really retracted) but I dont see why it would hold onto 7 other brake codes...
 
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DTC 65 is Low Brake Fluid, Unplug the level sensor at the master cylinder, If the light is now out.....Replace the level sensor. You can also try tapping the reservoir to see if the float is stuck.
 
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I'll try that soon (temporarily out of town/cant til back) but it's still showing other even redundant codes that won't erase/come back upon a restart... i'm wondering if there is some special honda erase method outside of the OBD2 or what other quirk would make it like this. Still dont understand the context/these all are happening now, vs they happened in order back then, vs etc.
 
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You're severely overthinking this. If the level is OK and unplugging the sensor on the reservoir makes the light go out, replace sensor.
 
Originally Posted By: columnshift
Properly burned in the new pads/rotors until they smoked and deposited a bit of blue on the rotor, after which they grabbed 3x as good, the ABS figured out it could work again, and everything seemed happy.


Wow what pad manufacturer suggest this as a break-in?

And I agree on the sensor. My BMW has a similar sensor on the coolant tank and although by all means it appeared to work fine it did not. Once I replace it with a new one the light went out.
 
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