Base clear job. I figured after a month or so, wet sand with 2000 and follow with meguiars 105 on a wool pad, then 205'on polishing pad.
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Painted my car, any advice on cut and buff?
- Thread starter ryanschillinger
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Well it's my first try at a full paint job so there is some orange peel and stuff I'd like to smooth out, then polish for a nice shine.
This guy did a great job wet sanding his black Accord. Especially considering the paint thickness is so thin:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/18-maintenance-detailing/48729-started-wetsanding-my-accord.html
Also Glen E wet sanding his new vette:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c7-g...range-peel.html
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/18-maintenance-detailing/48729-started-wetsanding-my-accord.html
Also Glen E wet sanding his new vette:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c7-g...range-peel.html
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Nice car,
Get in touch with "The Critic", he should be able to give you some good pointers.
Get in touch with "The Critic", he should be able to give you some good pointers.
No need to wait a month, wet sand with 2000 then 3000. Use a drop of dish soap to keep the paper clear then buff it with a rotary buffer.
I use 3M stuff only, the rest is just boutique hype products IMO, they use buzz word terms like feeding the paint and immense leveling ability.
The 3M waffle pads work fantastic, white for compound and black for swirl removing glaze.
I have tried many compounds and pads over the years for no other reason than claims made on forums, most were total garbage. These 3M products work, the pads are still good after 4 full paint jobs. You will find these in most body shops.
http://www.autogeek.net/body-shop-compound.html
http://www.autogeek.net/3m-swirl-remover-16oz.html
http://www.autogeek.net/3m-polishing-foam-pad.html
http://www.autogeek.net/3m-compounding-foam-pad.html
I use 3M stuff only, the rest is just boutique hype products IMO, they use buzz word terms like feeding the paint and immense leveling ability.
The 3M waffle pads work fantastic, white for compound and black for swirl removing glaze.
I have tried many compounds and pads over the years for no other reason than claims made on forums, most were total garbage. These 3M products work, the pads are still good after 4 full paint jobs. You will find these in most body shops.
http://www.autogeek.net/body-shop-compound.html
http://www.autogeek.net/3m-swirl-remover-16oz.html
http://www.autogeek.net/3m-polishing-foam-pad.html
http://www.autogeek.net/3m-compounding-foam-pad.html
I already have the meguiars 105 and 205 as well as a wool pad, compounding pad, and finishing pad. Are these products enough to get some decent results? I've had good luck for general paint polishing but haven't tried the wool pad or polished after a wet sanding. Only done that on my maximas headlights.
You can get great results with a wool pad on a rotary but it takes a lot of skill and experience.
The wool pad is the least forgiving pad there is if you hit an edge the wring way, they also get the paint plenty hot if your not careful.
I have used them for years and still get nervous with them. The waffle gives great results and is much more forgiving.
The wool pad is the least forgiving pad there is if you hit an edge the wring way, they also get the paint plenty hot if your not careful.
I have used them for years and still get nervous with them. The waffle gives great results and is much more forgiving.
I already have yellow pad for compounding. Is that enough? Or should I spend the money on a waffle pad?
Thanks for all your guys' advice.
Thanks for all your guys' advice.
1) Don't reassemble the car until you rub it out; you'll get compound in every little crevice and it will be difficult to get the edges (too late).
2) Don't wait a month. The paint is getting harder and harder as we speak, and you're new at this.
I would do this: First, sand out large nibs manually with 800 or 1200 grit. Don't worry about burning through because this is a lot thicker than factory paint. Learn to distinguish between dirt in the clear and dirt in the color, because you can't do anything about dirt in the color anyway. Next, flat sand the whole thing with 1500 grit to take out your sand scratches, flatten your orange peel, shrink your fisheyes, and knock down the small dirt nibs. Since you're new to rubbing cars, your should then go over the whole thing with 3000 grit. The entire purpose of 3000 grit is to minimize your 1500 grit scratches so they are easier to rub. The 3000 grit will return somewhat of a gloss and reflectiveness or "distinctiveness of image" to the paint. Now you are finally ready to actually rub the car. As mentioned above, 3M Perfect-It is the way to go. You're not old school and you're smart so you want the white foam pad, not the wool pad, as mentioned above. Don't skip any of the three pads or three materials. Don't have a cow if you spend a whole weekend chasing swirl marks. If you have stubborn swirls, take a brand new 3M painter's microfiber cloth with some polish and go over the swirls in a linear fashion so as to disrupt the concentric swirls.
Ten different painters will give you ten different ways to rub a car out, but you should know that I am a lazy man. Remember what Bill Gates said:
Quote:
“I choose a lazy person to do a hard job. Because a lazy person will find an easy way to do it.”
Have fun
2) Don't wait a month. The paint is getting harder and harder as we speak, and you're new at this.
I would do this: First, sand out large nibs manually with 800 or 1200 grit. Don't worry about burning through because this is a lot thicker than factory paint. Learn to distinguish between dirt in the clear and dirt in the color, because you can't do anything about dirt in the color anyway. Next, flat sand the whole thing with 1500 grit to take out your sand scratches, flatten your orange peel, shrink your fisheyes, and knock down the small dirt nibs. Since you're new to rubbing cars, your should then go over the whole thing with 3000 grit. The entire purpose of 3000 grit is to minimize your 1500 grit scratches so they are easier to rub. The 3000 grit will return somewhat of a gloss and reflectiveness or "distinctiveness of image" to the paint. Now you are finally ready to actually rub the car. As mentioned above, 3M Perfect-It is the way to go. You're not old school and you're smart so you want the white foam pad, not the wool pad, as mentioned above. Don't skip any of the three pads or three materials. Don't have a cow if you spend a whole weekend chasing swirl marks. If you have stubborn swirls, take a brand new 3M painter's microfiber cloth with some polish and go over the swirls in a linear fashion so as to disrupt the concentric swirls.
Ten different painters will give you ten different ways to rub a car out, but you should know that I am a lazy man. Remember what Bill Gates said:
Quote:
“I choose a lazy person to do a hard job. Because a lazy person will find an easy way to do it.”
Have fun
Originally Posted By: ryanschillinger
I already have yellow pad for compounding. Is that enough? Or should I spend the money on a waffle pad?
Thanks for all your guys' advice.
I only use 2 pads the off white and black I linked to. I would seriously consider getting them, they are easier to use and more forgiving, there is nothing like frigged up paint from buffing to ruin your day.
I already have yellow pad for compounding. Is that enough? Or should I spend the money on a waffle pad?
Thanks for all your guys' advice.
I only use 2 pads the off white and black I linked to. I would seriously consider getting them, they are easier to use and more forgiving, there is nothing like frigged up paint from buffing to ruin your day.
This is all out of my league, but thanks for the advice Trav
Yeah the car is my first real paint job. I've painted cars with rattle can and also rustoleum shot through hvlp. This was base clear.
Are all the waffle type pads good? I sometimes find myself near the chemical guys store and they have hex logic or whatever. Otherwise if it's worth it I'm not opposed to buying some new pads. I've polished out plenty of vehicles over the years but just with a combo of yellow pad with compound followed by black finishing pad and polish or wax/ sealant. I'm not a pro at all though. I like the sound of lazy!
Are all the waffle type pads good? I sometimes find myself near the chemical guys store and they have hex logic or whatever. Otherwise if it's worth it I'm not opposed to buying some new pads. I've polished out plenty of vehicles over the years but just with a combo of yellow pad with compound followed by black finishing pad and polish or wax/ sealant. I'm not a pro at all though. I like the sound of lazy!
You did a nice job. I'd follow Trav's advise, spend the money and get the proper pads and materials. It doesn't take much to ruin a nice job.
I have tried the Hex Logic and Lake County pads and were disappointed with them, the backing came loose on all of them when used on a rotary.
The 3M while they cost more are actually cheaper in the long run, they stay together and are 100% worth the money.
I do a lot of painting and buffing and don't have time or patience to be friggin around with toy orbital buffers. DIY guys like them because they are safe but for real work they suck.
I use an air powered rotary buffer because its lighter and easier to handle but in any case keep the RPM's around 1200 for compound and 1500 for swirl remover and glaze.
Get the paint as perfect as you can with the sand paper and water, final sanding with 3000 should leave no real scratches and have a semi gloss finish before hitting it with the buffer.
Buffing will be quick and easy with very little pressure, let the compound do the work.
I use these with an DA or orbital sander and water, keep the speed low and keep it moving, its great for large areas. If you have a 5" orbital sander just trim them down. You will like these!
https://www.amazon.com/Mirka-Abralon-8A-...a+3000G+Abralon
The 3M while they cost more are actually cheaper in the long run, they stay together and are 100% worth the money.
I do a lot of painting and buffing and don't have time or patience to be friggin around with toy orbital buffers. DIY guys like them because they are safe but for real work they suck.
I use an air powered rotary buffer because its lighter and easier to handle but in any case keep the RPM's around 1200 for compound and 1500 for swirl remover and glaze.
Get the paint as perfect as you can with the sand paper and water, final sanding with 3000 should leave no real scratches and have a semi gloss finish before hitting it with the buffer.
Buffing will be quick and easy with very little pressure, let the compound do the work.
I use these with an DA or orbital sander and water, keep the speed low and keep it moving, its great for large areas. If you have a 5" orbital sander just trim them down. You will like these!
https://www.amazon.com/Mirka-Abralon-8A-...a+3000G+Abralon
Cool. I have a rotary as well as a 6" random orbit polisher so I should be able to make this happen. Definitely the worst spot is up top on the roof I got a water drop from the threads of the gun to regulator I think it was. I hope it is less obvious later but not sure if I should try to dab a little extra clear on there with a small brush or something.
As has already been said, you want to deal with the texture and orange peel issues sooner rather than later because, over time, the paint becomes harder and cures.
How many coats of clear did you use?
3- 4 coats would give you a good margin if beginning with 800 or 1,000 grit, anything less... be sure you are absolutely comfortable going with 800- 1,000 by hand. A pneumatic D/A palm sander will be your friend for the large flat areas but you'll ,obviously need blocks for the transitions and such.
You don't have to refine to 3,000 and instead could stop @ 2,000 or even 1,500 but again, it's how comfortable you are with the sanding process and the buffing. If you hate machine polishing, then finish with the finest grit you like.
What paint system did you use?
I am not going to comment on 3M polishes because everyone has there favorites and what works best for them... however, M105 & M205 are certainly as good as any 3M product. So, I would not necessarily go out looking for new polishes BUT if you want to spend the money- so be it. I would consider M100 as well, if you are absolutely going to look for new products. M100 is purely solvent based (M105 is water base with solvents) and has a longer work time (less dusting) and a larger load of abrasives in the set.
Forget foam for removing 3000 marks... Will foam do it? Sure. But wool and rotary @ will do it faster, with less heat created and remove or minimize any 1,500 marks that were left after refining. Glide coat may also help you when refining in the sanding process. You can work M105 @ 1,000- 1,200 rpm and it will cut just fine.
For pads... Lake Country/ Buff & Shine make great 7- 8" pads for the rotary and as long as you clean them between sections with a brush or spur and after use wash and spin them out... they will last just as long as any other manufacturer's pad and you won't be paying 3M's incredible prices.
And I would give it 90 days for that paint to off gas before applying a wax/ sealant. If it hasn't been baked or IR cured... then it's going to take a little longer before you can apply a protectanct. Actually, M305 from Meguiar's (introduced last year) is a body shop safe, durable glaze that will provide some transitional protection until you can put on a wax/ sealant.
How many coats of clear did you use?
3- 4 coats would give you a good margin if beginning with 800 or 1,000 grit, anything less... be sure you are absolutely comfortable going with 800- 1,000 by hand. A pneumatic D/A palm sander will be your friend for the large flat areas but you'll ,obviously need blocks for the transitions and such.
You don't have to refine to 3,000 and instead could stop @ 2,000 or even 1,500 but again, it's how comfortable you are with the sanding process and the buffing. If you hate machine polishing, then finish with the finest grit you like.
What paint system did you use?
I am not going to comment on 3M polishes because everyone has there favorites and what works best for them... however, M105 & M205 are certainly as good as any 3M product. So, I would not necessarily go out looking for new polishes BUT if you want to spend the money- so be it. I would consider M100 as well, if you are absolutely going to look for new products. M100 is purely solvent based (M105 is water base with solvents) and has a longer work time (less dusting) and a larger load of abrasives in the set.
Forget foam for removing 3000 marks... Will foam do it? Sure. But wool and rotary @ will do it faster, with less heat created and remove or minimize any 1,500 marks that were left after refining. Glide coat may also help you when refining in the sanding process. You can work M105 @ 1,000- 1,200 rpm and it will cut just fine.
For pads... Lake Country/ Buff & Shine make great 7- 8" pads for the rotary and as long as you clean them between sections with a brush or spur and after use wash and spin them out... they will last just as long as any other manufacturer's pad and you won't be paying 3M's incredible prices.
And I would give it 90 days for that paint to off gas before applying a wax/ sealant. If it hasn't been baked or IR cured... then it's going to take a little longer before you can apply a protectanct. Actually, M305 from Meguiar's (introduced last year) is a body shop safe, durable glaze that will provide some transitional protection until you can put on a wax/ sealant.
Originally Posted By: ryanschillinger
Cool. I have a rotary as well as a 6" random orbit polisher so I should be able to make this happen. Definitely the worst spot is up top on the roof I got a water drop from the threads of the gun to regulator I think it was. I hope it is less obvious later but not sure if I should try to dab a little extra clear on there with a small brush or something.
Do you have a touch up gun? You need to flatten it a shoot a little clear then use a clear blender on it to melt it in.
PM me for the part numbers of the blender. It not hard to do, I can help you out with how to do it so you wont even see it.
Edit: Use a DeVilbiss HAF507K2 filter on your gun before the regulator and use teflon tape on the threads. DO NOT USE the cheap filters unless you like cotton in the paint when it explodes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NIXNAG/ref...9HQV0F1TAGEJVKQ
Cool. I have a rotary as well as a 6" random orbit polisher so I should be able to make this happen. Definitely the worst spot is up top on the roof I got a water drop from the threads of the gun to regulator I think it was. I hope it is less obvious later but not sure if I should try to dab a little extra clear on there with a small brush or something.
Do you have a touch up gun? You need to flatten it a shoot a little clear then use a clear blender on it to melt it in.
PM me for the part numbers of the blender. It not hard to do, I can help you out with how to do it so you wont even see it.
Edit: Use a DeVilbiss HAF507K2 filter on your gun before the regulator and use teflon tape on the threads. DO NOT USE the cheap filters unless you like cotton in the paint when it explodes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NIXNAG/ref...9HQV0F1TAGEJVKQ
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Trav, how many times should you use those filters?
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