15.5hp kawasaki engine uoa

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This engine holds 1.8 qts and I added maybe 3oz over the entire oci. Not sure why they put 2 gallons, I gave them tons of information describing what this machine was used for. Here is the rest of the info. This is used on a commercial lawn mower. What do you guys think? I know delo starts with a tbn of 8. Is it still in good shape? I guess a lot of this is still break in metals since the engine had 9hrs on it when I put this fill in and ran it for 95hrs.

Lube Time:95hrs
Unit time: 104hrs
Oil added 3oz
Fuel dilution:1.3%
Viscosit:13cst
TBN: 3.10
Oxidation: 14
Nitration: 9
 
What are you running as an oil filter?

I believe you can run a Fram 3614 (3 and 1/2 inches tall) or a Fram 3600 (nearly 5 inches tall)

The 3614 will hold 4 ounces more, the 3600 holds 8 more...

I change at 50 hours., and run an STP S3600 on my LT2000....

An oil change is exactly two quarts, 64 ounces...
 
I'm not the least bit familiar with the engine, but the oil is in great condition.


The viscosity is okay with 1.3% fuel dilution. The TBN of 3.1 is at a decent level, no worries there. While I don't know at what point Polaris would flag nitration or oxidation, if it isn't highlighted then it's okay. Silicon isn't too high, either.

The oil is still serviceable and I wouldn't hesitate to use 100 hours as an oci. If you're not comfortable with it that's fine, but there's nothing wrong with those results.

Edit - I guess I should say the oil is in good condition rather than great. Keep in mind that the sample comes from a very small capacity of two quarts. For almost 100 hours of work it's not bad.
 
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Originally Posted By: mattwithcats
What are you running as an oil filter?

I believe you can run a Fram 3614 (3 and 1/2 inches tall) or a Fram 3600 (nearly 5 inches tall)

The 3614 will hold 4 ounces more, the 3600 holds 8 more...

I change at 50 hours., and run an STP S3600 on my LT2000....

An oil change is exactly two quarts, 64 ounces...


I actually don't mind that I have a little left over that I can use for adding oil. The mower has a wiring harness that passes right by the oil filter, so if I put a longer one on it will be against the filter and I'm pretty sure it would melt through the plastic conduit. I would like an oil filter that filters better than 28 microns, personally if that's all it's going to filter then why bother having a filter at all?
 
Originally Posted By: dustyroads
I'm not the least bit familiar with the engine, but the oil is in great condition.


The viscosity is okay with 1.3% fuel dilution. The TBN of 3.1 is at a decent level, no worries there. While I don't know at what point Polaris would flag nitration or oxidation, if it isn't highlighted then it's okay. Silicon isn't too high, either.

The oil is still serviceable and I wouldn't hesitate to use 100 hours as an oci. If you're not comfortable with it that's fine, but there's nothing wrong with those results.

Edit - I guess I should say the oil is in good condition rather than great. Keep in mind that the sample comes from a very small capacity of two quarts. For almost 100 hours of work it's not bad.


I wouldn't mind running amsoil like I do in my other mower, but it's just so expensive, I'm looking at like $30.00-$40.00 for an oil change on a mower, that it's almost foolish. I suppose I could by the oil and filters in bulk and save on shipping, but I like to buy it when I do the service for maintenance records. I don't know, maybe that's a dumb idea.
 
For the Texas heat, I would run Mobil 15W-50, or if that cannot be found Mobil V-twin 20W-50 motorcycle oil in that air cooled engine.
 
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I have a 14 hp Kawasaki in my John Deer F510. It has a hydraulic unit attached to it and is one piece though. It loves Mobil 1 0w40. I also have an oil cooler on it. At 50 hrs the oil looks almost new. The engine is 17 years old and doesn't burn any oil at all.

I use to change all the oil, ~4 qts for both engine and hydraulic. But have gone to just changing the engine oil once a year. You have to drain out 2 qts, then add 2 qts with the drain open to get all the oil out. So just 2 qts a year means the hydraulic unit gets last years engine oil.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
For the Texas heat, I would run Mobil 15W-50, or if that cannot be found Mobil V-twin 20W-50 motorcycle oil in that air cooled engine.


They used to require 10w30 in these things, but recently approved the use of anything from 10w30 to 20w50 depending on how hot it was.
 
JimPghPA said:
For the Texas heat, I would run Mobil 15W-50, or if that cannot be found Mobil V-twin 20W-50 motorcycle oil in that air cooled engine. [/quot

Can I still run the 20w50 in the winter? It doesn't go below 40 degrees here normally
 
I'll just go back to 50 hour oci and not worry about it. It's just a matter of unscrewing the drain hose to let the oil drain. I can just let it drain overnight and fill it up in the morning and change the filter every 100hrs. Will only cost 8 bucks for the oil.
 
I have a 23hp Kawasaki on a '06 Hustler 60inch commercial grade mower. The mower does not see commercial duty but I have some average so I wanted something heavy duty.

I've always run Rotella 15w40 with a 1 year oci which equates to about 50 hours. I have a Fram TG on it and change it every other year.

Engine runs like a top.
 
Originally Posted By: Mantooth
I have a 23hp Kawasaki on a '06 Hustler 60inch commercial grade mower. The mower does not see commercial duty but I have some average so I wanted something heavy duty.

I've always run Rotella 15w40 with a 1 year oci which equates to about 50 hours. I have a Fram TG on it and change it every other year.

Engine runs like a top.


Mine will need an oil change like every 1.5 months at 50hrs.
 
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
JimPghPA said:
For the Texas heat, I would run Mobil 15W-50, or if that cannot be found Mobil V-twin 20W-50 motorcycle oil in that air cooled engine. [/quot

Can I still run the 20w50 in the winter? It doesn't go below 40 degrees here normally


Google "motor oil chart temperature degrees Fahrenheit" and click on the black and white chart on the right side.

20W is good down to 23 degrees F.

15W is good down to 14 degrees F.

So if you are really concerned about cold weather, go with the 15W-50. Here on BITOG Caujet in Florida swears by Mobil 15W-50 in all his OPE.
 
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=adk&hsimp=yhs-adk_sbnt&p=motor+oil+chart+temperature+degrees+Fahrenheit&type=appfocus29_ma_cr&param1=20160512&param2=eee12b6b-2fc5-41f1-ad78-99d318bf9bab&param3=maps_1.9~US~appfocus29&param4=gemini~chrome
 
They have 15w50 mobil one at walmart and autozone $9.99/quart. I think it's API SN though, not sure if that matters or what. I think they recommend API SL it's like a synthetic blend. Kawasaki makes their own different grades for these engines. Maybe I'd be better just going to the dealer and buying some. I don't know who actually makes it though.
 
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