Observations on Workplace corrosion

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Just thought I'd post some recent observations of corrosion in my current workplace..I'm a welder by trade and have worked in shipbuilding,ship repair,rig repair and small fabrication workshops.,not an expert by any means but in my current job I've kept an interesting eye on the corrosion taking place around my work.I work in a leisure centre which has wave pools,flumes(water slides) and general pools for casual swimming etc..it's a 3 year old site with stainless steel fittings,structural steel supports(beams,large diameter pipework supports,you name it..very similar to what you will see in most buildings, factories etc) The corrosion taking place with certain components are what I'd describe as extremely rapid compared to what I've witnessed in my previous profession,this is purely down to what can only be the high chlorine content in the air,combined with high humidity temperatures and a generally wet environment...various components /fittings are for corroding at differing speeds ,some not at all and hopefully this thread will be of interest to anyone who is interested in diy rust prevention...what I've noticed is as follows..

Stainless steel nuts and bolts( not immersed in water) rusted badly..to the stage that they would be classed as defective

Mild steel stairwells (painted) showing signs of bubbling..with areas of handrails showing excessive corrosion and heavy separation and flaking that would take at least a decade in what I'd call "normal conditions"

Stainless steel panels and fixtures and fittings -excessive surface rust and heavy pitting(belief was a sub standard grade of stainless was used or not treated right at start of construction)

Galvanised large diameter threaded bar used to hold beams and pipework -no corrosion and no sign of reaction to the environment

Galvanised threaded bar which has been cut on site and treated with etch primer- no corrosion

Galvanised threaded bar which has been cut on site with no etch primer-surface corrosion at place of cut


Aluminium fixtures and fittings -showing signs of heavy oxidation which is powdery and falling off..no protective oxide layer staying on preventing further oxidation..the aluminium gives the appearance of being in situ for decades.

Green copper oxide showing in and around electrical switches..again accelerated corrosion

I'm sure you will agree this high chlorinated atmosphere is accelerating corrosion ,my aim is to discretely place small mild steel plates with different types of paints and undercoats to see what methods offer best protection,my reasons being if protection against corrosion is achieved in this atmosphere then it will be more than suitable for diy applications..so far as I've stated galvanised steel seems to offer best resistance provided its static and undamaged.
I intend to use cheap paints that some of us diyers only have access to(hopefully no high performance rust inhibitors or high cost brands will be used)

I may also add that there is no preventative maintenance in place to deal with these levels of corrosion.
 
AA+ post. Thanks. Very interesting.

There is/was a product referred to as "cold zinc" coating. It came in US gallon cans like paint does in the USA.

ZRC Cold Zinc was the name to the best of my recollection. A fellow told me he bought a government Chevrolet light truck (pick-hip truck) which had been "ZRC'd".
It was over 40 years old and had no rust.

See what history the older "Holiday Parks" have had in your country. What is it, Buxton's (Billy Buxton?) or Bolton's? Are they maintained or run-to-the-ground?
 
Originally Posted By: Vdubuk

I'm sure you will agree this high chlorinated atmosphere is accelerating corrosion

Of course. Chlorine induced corrosion is a well known issue. Just ask the folks in Uster, Switzerland where, in 1985 the roof of a swimming pool collapsed after just 13 years, killing a dozen or so people. It was caused by chlorine corrosion. Anyone with an indoor pool knows the issues that a warm, humid, high chlorine environment will cause on metal. Just ask any decent hotel with an indoor pool what prevention program they have in place.

Originally Posted By: Vdubuk
my aim is to discretely place small mild steel plates with different types of paints and undercoats to see what methods offer best protection


You can, but there are a number of companies that already make products that will inhibit rusting in a chlorine pool environment. They are well known and work quite well.
 
I'll have to research that,dreadful to think that might happen..as for my painted steel plate experiments,mostly doing it out of interest
 
Just researched stress corrosion cracking,stainless steel in swimming pools highly susceptible to this..think I might have to open a big can of worms very soon,thanks for the feedback
 
Vdubuk,
I was part of a bid team for a coastal large industrial site a while ago, and what you have described is very common.

As a welder, and now your interest has been piqued in SSC, look also at intergranular embrittlement from low melting point metals.

Any of the paint markers on use on stainless steels for our boiler applications have to be certified Cl and Low Melting Point metal free.
 
Originally Posted By: Old Mustang Guy
Interesting to me that galvanized surfaces seemed to be so much more resistant than stainless steel.


Stainless steel is "stainless" because of a thin oxide layer that forms on the exterior. Chlorine strips that layer off. The thick zinc layer of galvanizing does not strip off like stainless does.
 
Thanks, didn't know that. I thought about exhaust systems/mufflers where some systems are stainless steel. I believe the Flowmaster mufflers I had on a couple of Mustangs were galvanized.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
and there's lots of stainless types.
I worked in food processing and their ss would be treated with a high chlorine cleaner every day. 316L stainless usually. Anything less will be corroded in acid or other corrosive chemicals.
 
I work for a municipal water agency. I work with gas CL2 and 14% hypochlorite all day.
When We were using a certain brand of injection pump the screw heads broke off after a few months. I contacted the manufacturer and I got the " never heard of this before" reply.
I first tried 316SS and they lasted 6 months, next I used 316SS/passivated screws and I have never replaced them again. I know it has only been 3 years but they still look great when I remove them for servicing.
The screws in question are 10-32 pan head. The difference in cost was interesting.
OE screws $4.25
316SS $.85
316SS/Passivated $2.14
I experienced the same problems with sheet metal and wood screws in the same environment and again the 316SS/Passivated are holding up
 
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