Oil for Generator After Breakin
- Thread starter Oli20
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You can use your T6 5w40 with confidence. Need not to do any science experiments. There are countless posts on this forum that people have been using it successfully and in most of the OPE that only have a 30 weight recommendation. The T6 can be used in all climates and will hold up the continuous use that generators can go through.
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Your smater than the OPE engineers. You missed the point with my comparison. Just because something works, a lot of people have done it and say it's great doesn't mean you should. Ugh. Just because Kawasaki recommends X doesn't mean it's ok for Generac. Would you take a Ford owners manual and use its maintenance recommendations and fluid specs for a Toyota?
Automobiles engineers are different. They usually have there own specs. of oil to use and typically are more stringent requirement, unlike OPE manufacturers. Even there I would advise to stay within specs. over viscosity. Most automobiles are usually fairly close in viscosity in what they recommend. However, most Europeans auto manufactures have the highest specs. that require it to full synthetic. So for most part for automobiles, stay with what is recommended or better. On to the OPE, OPE manufacturers oil recommendation are often generic. Even if they have there recommendations, they also never said you shouldn't do it this way either. I own a Husqvarna 224L straight gas string Trimmer. Husqvarna denies that they use the Honda GX25 engine, but I have proof that is a complete lie, because its casted right on the engine block, "Honda GX25". The only thing different is the engines shrouding. Honda recommends 10w30 for the GX25 engine, Husqvarna recommends 10w40 for the same engine. Honda tested there engine on 10w30, Husqvarna took the same engine and tested on 10w40.
Your smater than the OPE engineers. You missed the point with my comparison. Just because something works, a lot of people have done it and say it's great doesn't mean you should. Ugh. Just because Kawasaki recommends X doesn't mean it's ok for Generac. Would you take a Ford owners manual and use its maintenance recommendations and fluid specs for a Toyota?
Automobiles engineers are different. They usually have there own specs. of oil to use and typically are more stringent requirement, unlike OPE manufacturers. Even there I would advise to stay within specs. over viscosity. Most automobiles are usually fairly close in viscosity in what they recommend. However, most Europeans auto manufactures have the highest specs. that require it to full synthetic. So for most part for automobiles, stay with what is recommended or better. On to the OPE, OPE manufacturers oil recommendation are often generic. Even if they have there recommendations, they also never said you shouldn't do it this way either. I own a Husqvarna 224L straight gas string Trimmer. Husqvarna denies that they use the Honda GX25 engine, but I have proof that is a complete lie, because its casted right on the engine block, "Honda GX25". The only thing different is the engines shrouding. Honda recommends 10w30 for the GX25 engine, Husqvarna recommends 10w40 for the same engine. Honda tested there engine on 10w30, Husqvarna took the same engine and tested on 10w40.
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Someone has to agree with me here? It's such common sense.
No they don't.
Why did you bother to join an oil site if follow the owner manual is the only answer your interested in?
Someone has to agree with me here? It's such common sense.
No they don't.
Originally Posted By: Oli20
So the 40 weight shouldn't cause any issues even with this model having an oil pump? I have a lot of T6 on hand for my ATV's so if I could use that it would be very nice.
I vote for the T6, I use it in my Briggs powered genset which is splash oiled. Unlike the 10 W 30 the book suggests, the engine doesn't burn a drop of T6. I ran 20 W 50 in a Sears Tecumseh powered mower for 20 years, the owners manual made no mention of that grade. The engine was still running when the deck finally turned to rust.
So the 40 weight shouldn't cause any issues even with this model having an oil pump? I have a lot of T6 on hand for my ATV's so if I could use that it would be very nice.
I vote for the T6, I use it in my Briggs powered genset which is splash oiled. Unlike the 10 W 30 the book suggests, the engine doesn't burn a drop of T6. I ran 20 W 50 in a Sears Tecumseh powered mower for 20 years, the owners manual made no mention of that grade. The engine was still running when the deck finally turned to rust.
Fair enough, let me present this to you. Look in the owners manuals of small engine including Generac and you will may the something to effect that this engine is certified to be in EPA air quality compliance for Z number of hours. After that it may or may not be (my comment).
You may also see life expectancy of the engine in hours. What you say is true using the manufacturers specified viscosity will keep the engine in service for at least that long but you may be able to use a better lubricant to extend the life of that engine many times over.
That is only in your best interest not the manufacturers, in fact its totally against theirs. Before I got my diesel generator I had a Generac that ran 14 days straight only shutting down for refuel and oil change and my mothers 21 days with an oil change every 4 days (100 hrs).
That sort of service is far beyond what these units were intended for.
My moms got 500 hrs on it without enough of a break to cool down. A lot of generators started to fail during the aftermath of that storm, lots of them had just the oil in them that came in the machine other got a mid stream oil change with whatever was going in their car.
These 2 units had no problems, in fact when i looked down the cylinders the cross hatch marks were clearly visible and the valve adjustment was spot on which means there was no measurable cam or lifter/rocker arm wear.
The point is these kind of events can happen almost without warning and the unit pressed into extreme severe service at any time.
This is the storm that killed a lot of generators.
http://www.cbsnews.com/news/ice-storm-cuts-power-throughout-northeast/
You may also see life expectancy of the engine in hours. What you say is true using the manufacturers specified viscosity will keep the engine in service for at least that long but you may be able to use a better lubricant to extend the life of that engine many times over.
That is only in your best interest not the manufacturers, in fact its totally against theirs. Before I got my diesel generator I had a Generac that ran 14 days straight only shutting down for refuel and oil change and my mothers 21 days with an oil change every 4 days (100 hrs).
That sort of service is far beyond what these units were intended for.
My moms got 500 hrs on it without enough of a break to cool down. A lot of generators started to fail during the aftermath of that storm, lots of them had just the oil in them that came in the machine other got a mid stream oil change with whatever was going in their car.
These 2 units had no problems, in fact when i looked down the cylinders the cross hatch marks were clearly visible and the valve adjustment was spot on which means there was no measurable cam or lifter/rocker arm wear.
The point is these kind of events can happen almost without warning and the unit pressed into extreme severe service at any time.
This is the storm that killed a lot of generators.
http://www.cbsnews.com/news/ice-storm-cuts-power-throughout-northeast/
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Your smater than the OPE engineers. You missed the point with my comparison. Just because something works, a lot of people have done it and say it's great doesn't mean you should. Ugh. Just because Kawasaki recommends X doesn't mean it's ok for Generac. Would you take a Ford owners manual and use its maintenance recommendations and fluid specs for a Toyota?
You ignore the fact that factory specifications for the same vehicle and engine vary from country to country, with "energy savings" being ever so important in the US. What's "not in the book" for the US, even in the SAME climate conditions, is a factory recommendation elsewhere. Australia comes to mind at once, with a climate similar to Florida and the Southwest.
Your smater than the OPE engineers. You missed the point with my comparison. Just because something works, a lot of people have done it and say it's great doesn't mean you should. Ugh. Just because Kawasaki recommends X doesn't mean it's ok for Generac. Would you take a Ford owners manual and use its maintenance recommendations and fluid specs for a Toyota?
You ignore the fact that factory specifications for the same vehicle and engine vary from country to country, with "energy savings" being ever so important in the US. What's "not in the book" for the US, even in the SAME climate conditions, is a factory recommendation elsewhere. Australia comes to mind at once, with a climate similar to Florida and the Southwest.
I use Mobil 1 10W30 in my OPE. No issues.
Generac's oil recommendations seem a little strange in comparison to B&S, Honda, Kawasaki and most others. If it were me, I would use Rotella T6 5w40 and be done with it. That's what's running in my Champion 3500 Watt generator. I've also run Mobil1 5w30 in that unit.
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Generac's oil recommendations seem a little strange in comparison to B&S, Honda, Kawasaki and most others. If it were me, I would use Rotella T6 5w40 and be done with it. That's what's running in my Champion 3500 Watt generator. I've also run Mobil1 5w30 in that unit.
I agree with what you say. The more I thought about it, the more I wonder why they came up with it. For all we could of know, it was the CEO who demanded a dated oil recommendation. If Generac wanted show to the lubrication engineers there somewhat up to date of how motor oil is today. They could at least drop the 10w30 recommendation and have recommend 5w30 synthetic for 40 degree and lower. For more a stretch, consider that B&S recommend 5w30 synthetic for all temperature.
Generac's oil recommendations seem a little strange in comparison to B&S, Honda, Kawasaki and most others. If it were me, I would use Rotella T6 5w40 and be done with it. That's what's running in my Champion 3500 Watt generator. I've also run Mobil1 5w30 in that unit.
I agree with what you say. The more I thought about it, the more I wonder why they came up with it. For all we could of know, it was the CEO who demanded a dated oil recommendation. If Generac wanted show to the lubrication engineers there somewhat up to date of how motor oil is today. They could at least drop the 10w30 recommendation and have recommend 5w30 synthetic for 40 degree and lower. For more a stretch, consider that B&S recommend 5w30 synthetic for all temperature.
Sounds like T6 is a winner, and frankly that works out well for me. I agree that the oil guide is weird, no overlap between the grades and even the temps recommended for the grades is odd. Either way, I think 5w-40 it is. I really appreciate all the conversation and opinions
Unless your in some hot part of the world I'm sure synthetic 5W30 would work just fine. Most small engines last forever on Dino oil and little maintenance. It's the Chinese engines that scare me the most. I just changed the oil on my friends new China generator. So much metal in the oil. Crazy. He only ran it 2 hours too. See what the next oil change brings him.
Originally Posted By: FastLane
Unless your in some hot part of the world I'm sure synthetic 5W30 would work just fine. Most small engines last forever on Dino oil and little maintenance. It's the Chinese engines that scare me the most. I just changed the oil on my friends new China generator. So much metal in the oil. Crazy. He only ran it 2 hours too. See what the next oil change brings him.
I know a guy that runs a pet grooming fleet and he buys these cheapie gensets with the home depot extended warranty - then burns through them in commercial use and gets a new one. Over and over.
Loud cheap gas guzzling iron.
I run everything from 0-30 to 0w40and everything in between in commercial use, but service religiously - no oil related problems.
I air cooled gensets that are going to be run hard I try to use 40.
UD
Unless your in some hot part of the world I'm sure synthetic 5W30 would work just fine. Most small engines last forever on Dino oil and little maintenance. It's the Chinese engines that scare me the most. I just changed the oil on my friends new China generator. So much metal in the oil. Crazy. He only ran it 2 hours too. See what the next oil change brings him.
I know a guy that runs a pet grooming fleet and he buys these cheapie gensets with the home depot extended warranty - then burns through them in commercial use and gets a new one. Over and over.
Loud cheap gas guzzling iron.
I run everything from 0-30 to 0w40and everything in between in commercial use, but service religiously - no oil related problems.
I air cooled gensets that are going to be run hard I try to use 40.
UD
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Just follow the manual. Don't do a science experiment on your investment.
Obviously you have missed the OP's point. He has correctly echoed Generac's recommendations featuring three mutually exclusive temperature zones: below 10 F, 10 to 40 F, and above 40 F. He has also stated that he may need to run the generator in November or February. This may not be obvious to someone from Florida, but the OP could easily experience all three of those temperature zones on a single Michigan day in either November or February.
Now that being said, how is he supposed to follow the manual?
Just follow the manual. Don't do a science experiment on your investment.
Obviously you have missed the OP's point. He has correctly echoed Generac's recommendations featuring three mutually exclusive temperature zones: below 10 F, 10 to 40 F, and above 40 F. He has also stated that he may need to run the generator in November or February. This may not be obvious to someone from Florida, but the OP could easily experience all three of those temperature zones on a single Michigan day in either November or February.
Now that being said, how is he supposed to follow the manual?
Originally Posted By: Astro_Guy
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Just follow the manual. Don't do a science experiment on your investment.
Obviously you have missed the OP's point. He has correctly echoed Generac's recommendations featuring three mutually exclusive temperature zones: below 10 F, 10 to 40 F, and above 40 F. He has also stated that he may need to run the generator in November or February. This may not be obvious to someone from Florida, but the OP could easily experience all three of those temperature zones on a single Michigan day in either November or February.
Now that being said, how is he supposed to follow the manual?
Well if your suppose to follow the manual, then if the temperature is not right for what oil is in the crankcase, then you are suppose to dump and put the right one in. Because you know the engineers are smarter than us. People use the wrong oil and get away with it, but its not the right thing to do.
Originally Posted By: ToadU
Just follow the manual. Don't do a science experiment on your investment.
Obviously you have missed the OP's point. He has correctly echoed Generac's recommendations featuring three mutually exclusive temperature zones: below 10 F, 10 to 40 F, and above 40 F. He has also stated that he may need to run the generator in November or February. This may not be obvious to someone from Florida, but the OP could easily experience all three of those temperature zones on a single Michigan day in either November or February.
Now that being said, how is he supposed to follow the manual?
Well if your suppose to follow the manual, then if the temperature is not right for what oil is in the crankcase, then you are suppose to dump and put the right one in. Because you know the engineers are smarter than us. People use the wrong oil and get away with it, but its not the right thing to do.
Imagine your up at the cabin, it 0 outside its blowing. You lose electric. And your like oh, I had straight 30 in there because I used it last during a warmer fall day. So here comes the multiple choice test. Which than would be more popular? A. Follow the owners manual and change the oil in that windy cold night, your hands about numb till you put the rightful 5w30 synthetic in. B. Had the T6 in and get her started.
What a troll buffoon posting in this thread. As someone that has done HUNDREDS of oil changes every year on outdoor power equipment, I see what works, what consumes oil, and what doesn't. Granted, my climate is different than Michigan, but were it my generator, I would use synthetic Rotella 5W40. Great protection for summer heat, decent enough for cold starts. Can't think of a better oil for this application.
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