Ozonated Distilled Water in the Cooling System

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Thinking about this more, you mentioned using ZAF blue which only comes as a premix. I don't know how the cooling system is on you cycle but in a vehicle, much of the capacity is left in the engine block with radiator d&fs. If that's the same case with your cycle, and you want to use ZAF you will have 'some' ZAF premix d&fs after you do the distilled d&fs. Now if it has an easily accessed block drain(s) you may be able to avoid that.

But thinking a hydrometer might still be needed to check the AF concentration if using a premix with radiator d&fs.

WM sells the Chaslyn five ball AF tester for ~$1 if you don't have one. I've used it on my vehicles and it works quite well.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
So are you thinking that distilled water that has been ozonated (probably to kill micro-organisms) has depleted the ozone out of it before it's been bottled?


The 20 minute half-life starts as soon as the process ends. You buy the water weeks, months or even a year or more later at Walgreens or Walmart. Plus the amount of residual ozone is going to be tiny to start with.
 
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
I'd say this, if you're really concerned that the ozonated distilled is an issue, use a premix AF, both for the flush(s) and the fills to 50% or whatever is recommended. You'll need an inexpensive hydrometer to test for AF concentration and it's somewhat wasteful but less so in a motorcycle. Seems a bit overkill to me but it eliminates any distilled water concern you might have.

That said, imo I think you are overthinking this a bit. In my experience, plain old distilled water will work fine. And when the vehicle manufacturers recommend distilled water for the cooling system, that's all it says.

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Like I said, I simply want to find out if ozonated distilled water is fine or not, and why. I guess I found my answer, but to tell you the true, it wasn't a pleasant experience because of one particular participant. It should have been pretty cut and dried without all the game playing.

You're already ahead of many for questioning "Ozonated Distilled Water in the Cooling System"

I rarely used distilled water in cooling system, the last time I used it was for my S2000 early this year. I bought 2 jugs from WM and didn't know if it was Ozonated or not. I didn't even know what is Ozonated until you posted it here.

Before using distilled water in Honda S2000 cooling system I only used tap water in the LS400 for 20+ years.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
I'm not here to be looked down upon because I don't know the real answer.

No one is looking down on you in this thread. Certainly not me; listen to Leo99 -- he gets it.

Please tell us that these weren't outright lies to do nothing more than make it appear you'd put some legwork into this...

"I've looked on the web quite a bit for the information and find only info saying it might not be good."
"based on info I've read I would say don't use it if there's a chance it can be aggressive on materials"
 
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
Thinking about this more, you mentioned using ZAF blue which only comes as a premix. I don't know how the cooling system is on you cycle but in a vehicle, much of the capacity is left in the engine block with radiator d&fs. If that's the same case with your cycle, and you wan to use ZAF, you will have to 'some' ZAF premix d&fs after you do the distilled d&fs. Now if it has an easily accessed block drain you may be able to avoid that.

But thinking a hydrometer might still be needed to check the AF concentration if using a premix.

WM sells the Chaslyn five ball tester for ~$1 if you don't have one. I've used it on my vehicles and it works quite well.


Thanks for that comment Sayjac. The cooling system on the Hayabusa is such that about 95% of the coolant can be drained out by removing hoses. I also plan on flushing the system 4~5 times with distilled water. So that should get any old Dex-Cool out, but leave just a little distilled water remaining. So adding the Zerex Asian 50/50 pre-mix should keep it really close to its 50/50 concentration.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
I'm not here to be looked down upon because I don't know the real answer.

No one is looking down on you in this thread. Certainly not me; listen to Leo99 -- he gets it.

Please tell us that these weren't outright lies to do nothing than make it appear you'd put some legwork into this...

"I've looked on the web quite a bit for the information and find only info saying it might not be good."
"based on info I've read I would say don't use it if there's a chance it can be aggressive on materials"



You really need to stop ... I gave you my inputs on why I came here with this question.
 
Why in the world would you lie to make it appear you did research.
mad.gif


Won't deal with that - I'm out.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Before using distilled water in Honda S2000 cooling system I only used tap water in the LS400 for 20+ years.


It has everything to do with your local water supply. When I lived in the City of Milwaukee and we got Lake Michigan water, that was about as close to distilled water in terms of hardness as you can get. Very, very soft and entirely suitable for cooling systems. Now however, in the suburbs where well water is the norm there's no way I'd use tap water. $3 or whatever it costs at the drug store is cheap to get water without a lot of dissolved minerals.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Got it, liar.
mad.gif



You're a jerk, everyone sees it, and you've just digging your hole deeper by continuing to post.
 
So I will add this, I always use distilled on my vehicles. I rinse with it and fill with it from concentrate coolant. The ozone is gone way before you buy the water. Have no fear. I couldn't bother reading too much of this nonessential [censored].. simple question could have easily done with a simple answer if to do nothing but ease searches in the future for our other forum users. Have a wonderful day!
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Before using distilled water in Honda S2000 cooling system I only used tap water in the LS400 for 20+ years.


It has everything to do with your local water supply. When I lived in the City of Milwaukee and we got Lake Michigan water, that was about as close to distilled water in terms of hardness as you can get. Very, very soft and entirely suitable for cooling systems. Now however, in the suburbs where well water is the norm there's no way I'd use tap water. $3 or whatever it costs at the drug store is cheap to get water without a lot of dissolved minerals.

I have well water, so it has lots of minerals in it. I have to blow-dry my cars when washing because if I just let it dry naturally there are water spots all over the place.
 
Originally Posted By: Superflop
So I will add this, I always use distilled on my vehicles. I rinse with it and fill with it from concentrate coolant. The ozone is gone way before you buy the water. Have no fear. I couldn't bother reading too much of this nonessential [censored].. simple question could have easily done with a simple answer if to do nothing but ease searches in the future for our other forum users. Have a wonderful day!


Superflop - Thank you. This is the kind of information I'm looking for. Believe me, it's not super easy to find the answer to this.
 
Man, @11k, I think you have a fan. LOL.

This is why I rarely give advice on websites anymore. People seem to want to argue, and it's just not worth my time.

I will say that I live in an area with hard water, so using tap water in a cooling system would be a bad idea. I've always just used the < $1.00 a gallon distilled water from the local grocery store. Never any issues with that method. Including back when I worked on consumer cars for a living.

I won't get into the whole 'hungry water' issue with your fan, because I have better things to do with my time.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
The cooling system on the Hayabusa is such that about 95% of the coolant can be drained out by removing hoses. I also plan on flushing the system 4~5 times with distilled water. So that should get any old Dex-Cool out, but leave just a little distilled water remaining. So adding the Zerex Asian 50/50 pre-mix should keep it really close to its 50/50 concentration.

Sounds like a good plan and should work out well. Unfortunately in vehicles when desiring to do a complete flush/exchange, AF concentrate is virtually a must if wanting to do it with no waste, and most cost effective.

That said, I've had to do it the other way with Honda Typa 2 premix when the Honda dealer used original green with a head gasket job and I wanted it out. Did distilled d&fs then several Type 2 d&fs till I reached 50% concentration. I was not a happy camper for many reasons but I got it the way I wanted it with all the Green out and Type 2 in.
 
Originally Posted By: 02SE
.
This is why I rarely give advice on websites anymore. People seem to want to argue, and it's just not worth my time.


Isn't that the truth.

I recently commented that 25 microns was equal to .001" and had someone come back and argue that it was not .001", it was .000984252". At first I thought he was joking, but he wasn't.
 
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
Geez or is it whew. Would have been tough to take that I've been using the 'wrong' distilled water for all these years with my cooling system distilled flush series and full strength AF top offs to 50% concentration. Of course because I've been using WM or local grocery store distilled all these years with seemingly good results, highly unlikely I would have searched out 'pharmaceutical' grade distilled anyway. But good know that the ozonated distilled talk nothing more than hearsay with no basis in fact.

And have agree with one poster on the Mustang thread regarding the presenter, saying "I think that you're just a little off the deep end.." xD

Maybe we can get this one added to the Snopes, the rumor/urban legend site.


That's exactly how I've been changing my A/F all these years and I've never had a problem. I also have a well with very hard water so I pick up 'Distilled' water at WM for .89 a gallon and do exactly the same as Sayjac....I have original hoses on most vehicles even with 100K so I doubt that 'ozone' has hurt anything.

PS: I think a college or law school professor should try to foster 'critical thinking' but not so much a poster on an automotive forum.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's always good to see were people go for mutual...gratification


I guess, if that's what you're into
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: 02SE
Man, @11k, I think you have a fan. LOL.

This is why I rarely give advice on websites anymore. People seem to want to argue, and it's just not worth my time.


Yeah, most of the time people are pretty helpful and respectful of each other on this chat board, which is great and why I hang out here. I think most of the people here like sharing their knowledge with others so we can all learn something. But sometimes the pompoms arrogant clowns come out of the weeds for no apparent reason just to cause strife and looking some kind of twisted self-satisfaction.

Anyway, I'm sure not too many people really know the details about ozonated water, how it's processed and if the ozone levels are gone by the time you use it or not. Obviously, as there is conflicting information on the 'net, and I didn't even know ozonated distilled water existed until I saw it mentioned on the label - it's been awhile since I've needed to buy some, and have never seen it mentioned on the labeling in the past.

And 02SE, you did give me some good advice on some new tires (Bridgestone S21) in the other thread ... so thanks for that. Saved me a lot of time and headaches trying to research dozens of available tires out there.
11.gif
 
Hey ZeeOSix. I don't know what problem Ramblejam has with your question and why is he attacking you, but ozonated distilled water has no place in the radiator.

You see, ozone is an O3 molecule and is not very stable. On it's own it breaks up into O2 (oxygen) and a radical O. If it's only ozone, one radical finds another radical to form another O2 molecule. In aqueous solution, i.e. water ozone reacts with water forming H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). Hydrogen peroxide is corrosive, even to a living tissue. I am sure you've seen a wound forming white dead cells layer when hydrogen peroxide poured over it.

Why do they add it to distilled water? Precisely for that reason. You see, it's for external use only and has antiseptic properties. In your engine, however, well, it will attack metal.


P.S. I've just realized, my response a few minutes ago was to Ramblejam where he advises to use friction modifier right beneath a post with a video where design engineer says it will eat synchronisors.
 
Davison,

It's unfortunate that you want to jump into a thread with such a flawed misconception of what ozonated distilled water is; that you're telling someone to avoid it because of hydrogen peroxide is, frankly, beyond absurd.

Here's a good word for you - Peroxone.

Please do some research and understand what you're talking about.
 
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