Yes. The possibility does exist this engine could be leaking coolant into the oil.
Sludged Frontier
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add a bottle of z-max each oil change and it will clean right up.
Originally Posted By: Arctic388
add a bottle of z-max each oil change and it will clean right up.
You sure seem to promote that product a lot.
add a bottle of z-max each oil change and it will clean right up.
You sure seem to promote that product a lot.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Arctic388
add a bottle of z-max each oil change and it will clean right up.
You sure seem to promote that product a lot.
I was being sarcastic in this post but I did have physical results with it and would love to see others use it to see if it dissolves there sludge.
Originally Posted By: Arctic388
add a bottle of z-max each oil change and it will clean right up.
You sure seem to promote that product a lot.
I was being sarcastic in this post but I did have physical results with it and would love to see others use it to see if it dissolves there sludge.
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
An old timer once told me you can fill the crank case up with diesel and let it idle for a while to clean out a sludged engine. There's not much to lose with this engine... I'd try it.
On the contrary. Flushing a bunch of crud into the oil filter causing the filter to bypass and having said crud wipe the bearings could take the engine from being dirty and serviceable to junk.
An old timer once told me you can fill the crank case up with diesel and let it idle for a while to clean out a sludged engine. There's not much to lose with this engine... I'd try it.
On the contrary. Flushing a bunch of crud into the oil filter causing the filter to bypass and having said crud wipe the bearings could take the engine from being dirty and serviceable to junk.
Originally Posted By: Joshua_Skinner
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
An old timer once told me you can fill the crank case up with diesel and let it idle for a while to clean out a sludged engine. There's not much to lose with this engine... I'd try it.
On the contrary. Flushing a bunch of crud into the oil filter causing the filter to bypass and having said crud wipe the bearings could take the engine from being dirty and serviceable to junk.
Yeah, but it would be a fun experiment.
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
An old timer once told me you can fill the crank case up with diesel and let it idle for a while to clean out a sludged engine. There's not much to lose with this engine... I'd try it.
On the contrary. Flushing a bunch of crud into the oil filter causing the filter to bypass and having said crud wipe the bearings could take the engine from being dirty and serviceable to junk.
Yeah, but it would be a fun experiment.
Prolly plug the oil pick-up screen first and stop pumping ... Then go to junk
Don't use an engine flush. I was always told that all that sludge will break away and cover up the oil pump pickup.
I witnessed this once when someone used an engine flush in an abused Toyota RAV4. The engine developed a horrible knock before failing completely.
The only safe thing you can do is change the oil more frequently and have it gradually break down the sludge.
I witnessed this once when someone used an engine flush in an abused Toyota RAV4. The engine developed a horrible knock before failing completely.
The only safe thing you can do is change the oil more frequently and have it gradually break down the sludge.
"Rock solid sludge, and lots of it."
"Right now shes running great"
Those are two quotes from the original poster who is the owner of this engine, although he thinks he has a bad knock sensor.
So to everyone who think it ought to be de-sludged, exactly how much sludge will the oil filter will hold before it goes into bypass and dumps this stuff into the bearings, lifters and all the other important internals?
My vote would be to just run it until it expires and just don't go too far out with the service intervals.
"Right now shes running great"
Those are two quotes from the original poster who is the owner of this engine, although he thinks he has a bad knock sensor.
So to everyone who think it ought to be de-sludged, exactly how much sludge will the oil filter will hold before it goes into bypass and dumps this stuff into the bearings, lifters and all the other important internals?
My vote would be to just run it until it expires and just don't go too far out with the service intervals.
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I would pick up several cans of Berryman B-12 Chemtool and hose it down. The Berryman will dissolve all of that crud. I would then drop the oil pan and repeat on the lower end of the engine including the oil pickup screen. I would change the oil and run it for about 500 miles and change the oil again. One more short interval and then I would run the oil of my choice. That will take care of the effect of the problem, but you need to find out what caused it--poor maintenance or a problem with the PCV/other issue with the engine.
I would make it a project. Try whatever methods you want and document it for the rest of us. I would definitely try a de greaser like purple power after manually cleaning as much as I could and dropping the pan and pick up tube.
Just a couple of comments...
I think you would have to work really hard to get an engine to this bad a state. Maybe never ever changing the oil and then just refilling the sump when the red light comes on (something I confess I've done but only the once!).
Most US PCMOs are pretty good in terms of their oxidative stability on account of the fact that they're made from Group II base oil (at least) and you have tests in GF-5 which if anything, 'over-treat' the oil with antioxidant, dispersant and detergent. Under normal use, I'd guess most oils would be dark and see some TBN depletion at 5k miles, approach total TBN depletion by 10k, followed by total collapse of the oil accompanied by serious sludge deposition at somewhere approaching 15k.
Sludge always forms very rapidly as a result of condensation/polymerisation reactions forming big molecules which are inherently insoluble. The process is usually 'visible' as a rapid rise in the oil's viscosity. If you haven't see a rise in KV, then you almost certainly won't have sludge.
On last thing. The tests used to demonstrate the 'cleaning power' of oil are IMO a bit artificial. You run an engine to produce some sludge but deliberately stop the test before it gets too bad. You then drain the oil, whack in the good stuff and immediately restart the engine and see what happens. Because the sludge is relatively fresh and present as a relatively thin layer, it can in time be reduced/removed. However had the sludge had time to thicken up and 'bake' (like in the photo) then even the best oil would struggle to make a dent in it.
I think you would have to work really hard to get an engine to this bad a state. Maybe never ever changing the oil and then just refilling the sump when the red light comes on (something I confess I've done but only the once!).
Most US PCMOs are pretty good in terms of their oxidative stability on account of the fact that they're made from Group II base oil (at least) and you have tests in GF-5 which if anything, 'over-treat' the oil with antioxidant, dispersant and detergent. Under normal use, I'd guess most oils would be dark and see some TBN depletion at 5k miles, approach total TBN depletion by 10k, followed by total collapse of the oil accompanied by serious sludge deposition at somewhere approaching 15k.
Sludge always forms very rapidly as a result of condensation/polymerisation reactions forming big molecules which are inherently insoluble. The process is usually 'visible' as a rapid rise in the oil's viscosity. If you haven't see a rise in KV, then you almost certainly won't have sludge.
On last thing. The tests used to demonstrate the 'cleaning power' of oil are IMO a bit artificial. You run an engine to produce some sludge but deliberately stop the test before it gets too bad. You then drain the oil, whack in the good stuff and immediately restart the engine and see what happens. Because the sludge is relatively fresh and present as a relatively thin layer, it can in time be reduced/removed. However had the sludge had time to thicken up and 'bake' (like in the photo) then even the best oil would struggle to make a dent in it.
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