10W-30 a better choice then 5W-30

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ALL cold starts rely on existing residual film. There is no "flow" happening for the first few revolutions as the engine lights. How long does it take for the oil pressure light to go out on your motor? If it's longer than instantaneous, the motor is relying on existing film everywhere...


And piston skirts, wrist pins, cam chains, and the like are never lubed by pumped oil anyway, so how would they know about "flow" ...

Use what makes you happy. It's your $ for the truck and for the oil. There's a pretty good probability that if the motor goes south (and following a bathtub failure curve, if it ran off the lot, it'll prolly get to 100,000), the first thing that will happen is that they'll drain the oil and drop the pan ... Likely they'll loose the oil. As long as it's not obviously too thick on inspection, they won't care. If it looks dirty, chunky, black, gritty, etc. - they will come at you from an oil angle...

If it were me and I had that much invested, I'd run the "thickest" oil I could find that met factory spec out to warranty. Then switch to 10W-30 or 15W-40 depending on what I had for bulk oil on the ranch at the time (I have both right now)... We all know that all oils are the same. One of the 5W-20 is on the thicker side of that equation. Just use it for now
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In all of my career as a dealer mechanic, we've never had to sample the oil when there was an engine failure under warranty. And I never heard anyone else mention it either, during the importer organised classes. That's for 3 brands.

we occasianally used a UOA service when I was working on our own busses and coaches, but the main use was spot checks for silicon (
 
In all of my career as a dealer mechanic, we've never had to sample the oil when there was an engine failure under warranty. And I never heard anyone else mention it either, during the importer organised classes. That's for 3 brands.

We occasianally used a UOA service when I was working on our own busses and coaches, but the main use was spot checks for silicon (air filtration issues) or coolant contamination. The busses otherwise were on a strict maintenance schedule. We even did work on the busses still under warranty and recouped the cost.

So you won't be attracting a UOA just because you run a grade or 2 thicker.
 
I don't feel guilty in the least either. I use a 10w30 synthetic in both my 2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6 and my 2015 2500 6.0L. I grew up when everyone was using straight 30w year round in most everything. My dad wouldn't deviate from using a straight 30w clear up to the day he passed in 2003. He never had an engine fail on him. Many, the vehicles themselves died before the engine had any problem. Everything I have gets a 10w30. From my Yamaha portable generator and JD Zero turn mower on up thru my commercial semi trucks. Different spec 10w30's for different applications, but 10w30 nonetheless.
 
Not really. The OP asked if there was any relevant difference between 10W-30 and 5W-30?

There is little difference at op temp, and that's mostly by brand/formulation...

A little different at cold temps...

How did that get to be a dead horse?
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
i just think the 5w vs 10w-30 debate has been discussed forever


Yeah, but there's always something new to learn regardless

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4159604/Re:_Amsoil_10w-30#Post4159604

Limiting discussion because you "think" that discussing the same thing repeatedly is bad/boring isn't right.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
In all of my career as a dealer mechanic, we've never had to sample the oil when there was an engine failure under warranty. And I never heard anyone else mention it either, during the importer organised classes. That's for 3 brands.

Thanks Jetronic, that's good to know and sort of what I expected.

I've been offered extended warranties before on my cars, and when talking about my obligation, they wanted to see oil changes every 10,000KM (6k miles) but they didn't care about the brand or the grade.

Most mechanic shops around me offer three oils: 5W-30 ILSAC semi-syn, 10W-40 A3/B4 semi-syn, and 15w-40 HDEO mineral. Everybody gets one of those three in everything on the road, with the expectation that you change it regularly.

I've never heard of engine problems or warranty denials because the local mechanic put 10W-40 A3/B4 (the default choice) in your Ford or Toyota.

I know a few mechanics, unless the oil is sold tar, they don't care and focus on the broken part which is deemed to be the cause of the problem. They talk about weak parts in the car, not weak add packs in the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
i just think the 5w vs 10w-30 debate has been discussed forever


I enjoy a 10W-30 thread .... It's an under appreciated grade now that the new floozy dexos 5W-30 has appeared on the scene.

I like the dexos standard, I just wish they would let it apply to 10W-30, still at least ACEA is a bit more welcoming and allow a 10W-30 A5/B5 which is an excellent standard too.
 
I recommend you read all the responses for entertainment and use what Fiat-Chrysler recommends. Unless you know personally a respondant and know their expertise and it is sufficient to overrule the manufacturer (not likely) then stay with what FCA tells you.
 
Probably because a 10w30 usually has a lower NOACK rating compared to 5w30 of the same brand, along with fewer Viscosity improvers. Some full synthetic 10w30's have no need of any viscosity improvers. All of that a plus in some folk's books.
 
Put in 10w-30. Try it and if no issues occur go with that weight of oil.

Nuff said,

xtell
 
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Probably because a 10w30 usually has a lower NOACK rating compared to 5w30 of the same brand, along with fewer Viscosity improvers. Some full synthetic 10w30's have no need of any viscosity improvers. All of that a plus in some folk's books.

+1
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That's been in the back of my mind for GDI engines - low NOACK, less VII, less SAP, more pure base fluids ...
It just appears hard to tackle the problem with TTDG alone ...
 
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Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Probably because a 10w30 usually has a lower NOACK rating compared to 5w30 of the same brand, along with fewer Viscosity improvers. Some full synthetic 10w30's have no need of any viscosity improvers. All of that a plus in some folk's books.


Nothing wrong with 10W-30 in this application, but...

I've read articles by petroleum engineers stating that research in now mainly centered on xW-20s and 5W-30 with heavier weights getting secondary attention. There isn't a great difference on NOACK nor are there really isn't much more in the way of VI in a synthetic 5W-30.

I think 10W-30 has its place in older vehicles maybe beginning to use some oil, but there is no reason to use it in a newer vehicle not calling for it..
 
Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
I still dream that one day some brave oil company will offer the general public a 10W-20 oil...


with a 2.9HTHS, I'd buy it tomorrow.
 
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