2ZR-FE 1.8 Startup Rattle in Vibe, Matrix, Corolla

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Rhymingmechanic

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This is a fairly common problem, caused by the timing gear actuator not stopping in the correct position. The gear assembly then rattles loudly for about 1-2 seconds on cold starts. My 2010 Vibe started doing it last summer, out of warranty.

My question is, basically, will this damage the engine if I don't get it fixed?

There's a lot of experience with both ownership and repair on this site, so I'm hoping somebody can answer. The Vibe and Toyota sites mostly say "my engine rattled and I got it fixed under warranty," but I couldn't find anything about damage or failures.

Last summer, I took it to the dealership I've used for recalls and other work. I gave them printouts of the GM and Toyota TSBs, played a recording of the noise, and left the car overnight, but they couldn't hear anything. The problem is, it happens only on the first start of the day, and then sometimes again if the car sits for most of the day after being driven.

I need to take the car in for another recall, and I'm debating whether I should arrange to leave it overnight and have them check again. If they had diagnosed the noise last year, they could have charged me a lot to fix it. This isn't a repair I'm confident doing myself, and I can live with the noise if it doesn't hurt anything.

Thanks to everyone for your input.
 
I would imagine that the actuators would be worn out prematurely since the noise likely is due to the metal parts colliding. How much faster, I'm not sure. An expert BITOGer will give advise. I am curious to see what oil you have been using.
 
Not sure if this is any consolation...

My, bought new with 4 miles 2013 Corolla LE developed the rattle at about 4k miles. I had break in oil changed at 2k, and then next 5k and 8k and 12k. (Yes, TOTAL waste of oil, but thats beside the point). Always changed at dealer with Toyota genuine filters and Full Syn Toyota or Penzoil Platinum 0w-20.

The car was destroyed at 12,800 miles after I winter waxed it by a guy who barged right into my right of way at a signed intersection where only he had a stop sign.

As I said goodby to the destroyed hulk, I looked in the engine....
spotless double spotless. As expected.

And yet she start-up rattled every day as if it simply was born with it. I think it is an integral part of the machine and is not a problem.
 
Originally Posted By: Dorian
I am curious to see what oil you have been using.


I got the car with 29,000 miles. First 3 changes: Pennzoil and Quaker State 5W-20, then 3 changes with Peak Synthetic 5-20, then 3 with Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20. The rattle developed during a run of Platinum 0-20, and a fresh change made no difference. A UOA for that interval showed nothing unusual.
 
This is a problem across their vehicle lineup,
Originally Posted By: TSB

Brief Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup (1AR/2AR) Brief Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup (TSB-0146-10)

Immediately following a cold soak startup, some 2010 – 2011 Camry, 2009 – 2010 Highlander, 2009 – 2010 RAV4, 2009 – 2010 Venza model year vehicles equipped with the 1AR-FE and 2AR-FE engines may exhibit a brief knock/rattle noise from the engine compartment for approximately one second.


But apparently it's happening in everything from FJ's to Corollas. It's been going on well into the 2014 models according to various Toyota forums. Google even pointed to a bitog thread: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2455182&page=all
 
The 2012 Camry does it and a recent UOA came back with excellent results. The 05 Matrix doesn't do it. My brother's 2014 Camry does it as well.
 
My 2015 Rav4 has it. Dealer said it was a concern but Toyota rep declared it "Normal. Not covered on TSB" Cost me a weekend car rental to find that out.
15k so far on TGMO 0w-20. I'm not going to worry about it until the warranty is up. I will bring it up again at final "free" oil change.
 
I have the Atkinson-cycle version of this motor in my 2011 Prius. I have 134k and mine has done it on/off since new. Oil change were done at 10k intervals early on, but later dropped to 5k. Always used full synthetic, usually 0w-20.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. It's good to hear nobody's had any failures.

The 1.8 TSB uses the exact same language as what's posted above. Strangely, Toyota covers 2009-10, but GM only covers 2009.

Hopefully this is a Toyota version of the GM truck piston slap that was annoying but not destructive.
 
What was different about the 2009 1.8L Matrix from the 2008 1.8L?

Nearing 90k in our 2008 and thankfully it runs perfect no noise at all ever.

I have been feeding it 5w20 synthetic bargains for the past couple years, and the rockauto sale filters.

I know that the 2008 was the last year for the spin on oil filter, the 2009 has the cartridge.
 
JustinH,

Check your underhood decal for the engine code. I'm pretty sure the 2ZR-FE was a new engine for 2009.
 
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but has there been any failure of this part yet? My gf's corrola is getting worse, but I don't have any drivability issues at all....yet...140k on her car. Would this be a case for additives such as Bestline and MotorKote?
 
Originally Posted by 2012AccentSE
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but has there been any failure of this part yet? My gf's corrola is getting worse, but I don't have any drivability issues at all....yet...140k on her car. Would this be a case for additives such as Bestline and MotorKote?

I'm rattling away at 169k miles now. It hasn't gotten any worse, I haven't found one case online of this causing a failure.
 
OP here. No failure yet at 120,000. It rattles every morning, loud enough that a middle-school girl notices it.

Surprisingly, this engine has no tensioner. Belt tension is set the old-fashioned way at the alternator bracket.

I don't think additives would do anything. My understanding is that something isn't engaged properly in the VVT system, and the parts rattle until they engage.
 
Last edited:
Even with the chain installed this is a fairly simple fix. When I replaced the head gasket on my 2ZR-FXE, I installed the latest-revision cam gear from Toyota (see picture below).

Here is what you need to do:

- Remove the valve cover
- Set the engine to cyl #1 TDC
- Use a bungy cord or something similar to maintain tension on the chain (it doesn't move anyway since that side of the chain is the tension-side)
- Remove the tensioner and lock the plunger.
- Loosen ALL of the camshaft bearing caps in sequence
- Remove the intake camshaft with the gear still attached. Remove the old gear, install new one and torque to spec. "Unlock" the gear by turning it (this will obvious).
- Re-assemble in reverse. Use new gaskets for the valve cover, camshaft bearing hole cover (I think there's 2 for the 2zr-fe) and timing chain tensioner. After the tensioner is reinstalled turn the crank counterclockwise just a hair, then rotate clockwise. This should get the tensioner plunger unlocked.

The job should take about 1 hr.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...sket-failure-at-185k-summary#Post5037987


IMG_4706.jpg


IMG_4676.jpg
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by The Critic
Even with the chain installed this is a fairly simple fix. When I replaced the head gasket on my 2ZR-FXE, I installed the latest-revision cam gear from Toyota (see picture below).

Here is what you need to do:

- Remove the valve cover
- Set the engine to cyl #1 TDC
- Use a bungy cord or something similar to maintain tension on the chain (it doesn't move anyway since that side of the chain is the tension-side)
- Remove the tensioner and lock the plunger.
- Loosen ALL of the camshaft bearing caps in sequence
- Remove the intake camshaft with the gear still attached. Remove the old gear, install new one and torque to spec. "Unlock" the gear by turning it (this will obvious).
- Re-assemble in reverse. Use new gaskets for the valve cover, camshaft bearing hole cover (I think there's 2 for the 2zr-fe) and timing chain tensioner. After the tensioner is reinstalled turn the crank counterclockwise just a hair, then rotate clockwise. This should get the tensioner plunger unlocked.

The job should take about 1 hr.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...sket-failure-at-185k-summary#Post5037987


Thanks for that information, Critic.

If I try to do this myself, there are two issues at play. 1) The car is my wife's. 2) I have never worked on the timing set of an engine with a tensioner, much less more than one cam.
So if you'll bear with me, I have some novice questions.

-First, does the timing cover need to come off, or just the valve cover?

-Is the tensioner shown in your photo? I'm guessing it is between the gears at the top? How do you lock the plunger?

-Is my aim with the bungee cord to keep the chain tight around the left/rear gear?

-Is there a particular sequence for removing the bearing caps? Passenger to driver's side? And it looks like each cap holds both cams, right?

-Can you explain unlocking the gear a little more? I've read about people having this done by Toyota and the techs forgetting to unlock the gear.

Thanks again for posting the image and details.
 
Interesting!

I've never heard the rattle from my 2011 2ZR-FXE, unless it's too subtle to get my attention.
My niece recently bought a 2013 Corolla (2ZR-FE) with 94+k miles, and likes it at last report. I heard it start a couple of times and didn't notice any unusual noises. In fact, the engine seemed remarkably quiet at idle, quieter than the Prius.

Still nobody knows whether the rattle indicates a significant functional problem brewing, or is only an aesthetic flaw?
 
Originally Posted by Rhymingmechanic


Thanks for that information, Critic.

If I try to do this myself, there are two issues at play. 1) The car is my wife's. 2) I have never worked on the timing set of an engine with a tensioner, much less more than one cam.
So if you'll bear with me, I have some novice questions.

-First, does the timing cover need to come off, or just the valve cover?
Valve Cover only

-Is the tensioner shown in your photo? I'm guessing it is between the gears at the top? How do you lock the plunger?
The tensioner is not shown.

-Is my aim with the bungee cord to keep the chain tight around the left/rear gear?
Yes. But in all honesty, I have only done the repair with the engine already disassembled. My guess is that the chain is unlikely to move since the intake cam is on the tension side of the chain?

-Is there a particular sequence for removing the bearing caps? Passenger to driver's side? And it looks like each cap holds both cams, right?
There is a specific sequence in the repair manual. Get a short-term subscription to Toyota TIS or you can get a 5-yr subscription to alldatadiy for $30 which will contain all factory service info.

-Can you explain unlocking the gear a little more? I've read about people having this done by Toyota and the techs forgetting to unlock the gear.
When installing the cam gear there is a notch on the cam that lines up with a hole/divot on the new cam sprocket. AFTER torquing the bolt to spec, you can unlock the sprocket by twisting the camshaft and the cam sprocket in opposing directions. It is a lot easier than they describe it to be. Take a look at this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9YIWxi92gM



Thanks again for posting the image and details.

See above.
 
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