Nice car in 'pull me over' red. lol. enjoy.
New 2016 428IX convertible- 0W20
- Thread starter scudpilot
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This thread is very reminiscent of my own experience with Kia.
I asked them if they used the recommended 5w20 Full Synthetic oil when they did the 2 year Service, the Tech said they only use 5w30. I went to three other Kia dealers and all said the same thing.
I am going to buy the correct oil for a half interval OC and see if there are any improvements to economy or performance (what little there is.....)
Nice colour for a BMW and rare in the UK, they are mostly, White, Black, Dark Blue or Silver.
And mostly diesel aswell.......
I asked them if they used the recommended 5w20 Full Synthetic oil when they did the 2 year Service, the Tech said they only use 5w30. I went to three other Kia dealers and all said the same thing.
I am going to buy the correct oil for a half interval OC and see if there are any improvements to economy or performance (what little there is.....)
Nice colour for a BMW and rare in the UK, they are mostly, White, Black, Dark Blue or Silver.
And mostly diesel aswell.......
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: scudpilot
Picked it up yesterday for my wife and on a sticker under the hood it said
0W20. Yet no one at the dealer knew anything about it.. They said at first oil change they will use 5W30. We shall see. By then maybe things will start to change.
I think that it is aimed to average BMW driver in the US. Most of BMW's in the US are grocery getters. 0W20 will allow better cold performance and less wear in short runs and better MPG.
If you drive like BMW should be driven, stick to BMW LL-01. In Germany that is still go to oil for N20.
It's not just for the US market.
It's been available for the past couple of years in Europe.
Attached is the German made Fuchs Titan GT1 EVO 0W-20 brochure from Feb 2014:
http://www.generaloils.net/2014-02-12_AIS-InfoFuchs_TITAN-GT1-EVO-0W-20_EN.PDF
They go to great lengths to counter the assumption that a 0W-20 will allow greater engine wear.
Thanks for that info Caterham.
After reading your post and the linked info I did a search of the Fuchs site and they recommend this very oil as one of the options for my Kia.
Will be looking into finding some towards the end of the mont.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: scudpilot
Picked it up yesterday for my wife and on a sticker under the hood it said
0W20. Yet no one at the dealer knew anything about it.. They said at first oil change they will use 5W30. We shall see. By then maybe things will start to change.
I think that it is aimed to average BMW driver in the US. Most of BMW's in the US are grocery getters. 0W20 will allow better cold performance and less wear in short runs and better MPG.
If you drive like BMW should be driven, stick to BMW LL-01. In Germany that is still go to oil for N20.
It's not just for the US market.
It's been available for the past couple of years in Europe.
Attached is the German made Fuchs Titan GT1 EVO 0W-20 brochure from Feb 2014:
http://www.generaloils.net/2014-02-12_AIS-InfoFuchs_TITAN-GT1-EVO-0W-20_EN.PDF
They go to great lengths to counter the assumption that a 0W-20 will allow greater engine wear.
Thanks for that info Caterham.
After reading your post and the linked info I did a search of the Fuchs site and they recommend this very oil as one of the options for my Kia.
Will be looking into finding some towards the end of the mont.
bigjl, your welcome.
Apparently the wife's new Suzuki Celerio is using 0W20. I really rate it because the fuel economy is so brilliant (73.3 mpg!). I'm also acutely aware that the car typically gets driven at 55 mph max and the engine rarely exceeds 2,200 rpm and all this in a country not paricularly well known for it's high summer temperatures.
If on the otherhand I used 0W20 in a twin-turbo'd engine that's going to be thrashed in the baking heat of Ozzieland, then I might ask some serious questions about the Noack of this 0W20 and how all that highly pressured, hot blowby might start transferring oil from the sump to places you really dont want it.
If on the otherhand I used 0W20 in a twin-turbo'd engine that's going to be thrashed in the baking heat of Ozzieland, then I might ask some serious questions about the Noack of this 0W20 and how all that highly pressured, hot blowby might start transferring oil from the sump to places you really dont want it.
The Noack volatility of 0W-20 oils is good with many in the 10% range and even lower.
There are GP III 5W-50s that have worse Noack spec's.
There are GP III 5W-50s that have worse Noack spec's.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The Noack volatility of 0W-20 oils is good with many in the 10% range and even lower.
There are GP III 5W-50s that have worse Noack spec's.
Agreed. There are lots of high Noack oils around and in your position, I might be wary of all of them. I had a look at the Castrol LE14+ Datasheet. There's no Noack quoted but my eyes did spot the 3,600 cP CCS. This oil is a 0W20 but is a whisker away from being a -5W20 (not that there is such a thing but you get the drift). Directionally that will push the Noack up.
I'm not entirely sure of my facts now but I do seem to recall reading that for a normally aspirated engine, roughly 2% of the air/fuel mass flow to the cylinders by-passes the rings as blow-by with the overall mass of blow-by increasing with engine speed/load. I don't know but could imagine that for a twin turbo that the number is significantly higher than 2% (because of the high boost pressure) and that the blow-by is hotter. Put that together with a volatile oil and you might just push a lot of oil into the cylinders when it could promote knock. I do recall seeing some horrorshow photographs several months ago of some pistons from a twin-turbo VW (maybe a SEAT?) where parts of the second land had completely broken away from the side of the cylinder. My reaction then was yep, knock damage, probably oil 'carry-over' related.
The Noack volatility of 0W-20 oils is good with many in the 10% range and even lower.
There are GP III 5W-50s that have worse Noack spec's.
Agreed. There are lots of high Noack oils around and in your position, I might be wary of all of them. I had a look at the Castrol LE14+ Datasheet. There's no Noack quoted but my eyes did spot the 3,600 cP CCS. This oil is a 0W20 but is a whisker away from being a -5W20 (not that there is such a thing but you get the drift). Directionally that will push the Noack up.
I'm not entirely sure of my facts now but I do seem to recall reading that for a normally aspirated engine, roughly 2% of the air/fuel mass flow to the cylinders by-passes the rings as blow-by with the overall mass of blow-by increasing with engine speed/load. I don't know but could imagine that for a twin turbo that the number is significantly higher than 2% (because of the high boost pressure) and that the blow-by is hotter. Put that together with a volatile oil and you might just push a lot of oil into the cylinders when it could promote knock. I do recall seeing some horrorshow photographs several months ago of some pistons from a twin-turbo VW (maybe a SEAT?) where parts of the second land had completely broken away from the side of the cylinder. My reaction then was yep, knock damage, probably oil 'carry-over' related.
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