i'm an idiot

[davenuk]

I accidently bought YamaLube 10w-30 4stroke Outboard Marine Oil instead of what I wanted for my R1 Motorbike.

now, i'm probably just going to return it and lose a few quid, but....
the nerd in me wants to know what the differences are and how risky it would be to use it.

I live in the UK.

here's what I bought -

Technical specifications
Volume: ml
Viscosity grade: 10W-30
Density at 20°C (68°F): g/cm3
Density at 15°C (59°F): 8,790 g/cm3
Kinemetic Viscosity at 40°C (104°F): g/cm3
Kinemetic Viscosity at 100°C (212°F): 10,800 g/cm3
Viscosity index: 145
Noack volatility: % weight
Flash point: 225 °C
Pour point: -37,5 °C
Total base number: 688 mg KOH/g



here's the sort of stuff I wanted -

Technical specifications
Volume: ml
Standards: API-SL
JASO MA approval nr.: M081YMC660
Viscosity grade: 10W40
Density at 20°C (68°F): g/cm3
Density at 15°C (59°F): 85 g/cm3
Kinemetic Viscosity at 40°C (104°F): g/cm3
Kinemetic Viscosity at 100°C (212°F): 1,406 g/cm3
Viscosity index: 167
Noack volatility: % weight
Flash point: 236°C °C
Pour point: -40°C °C
Total base number: 593 mg KOH/g






thanks

 

[ARCOgraphite]

KV in centistoke CGS unit is not g/cm3.

 

[davenuk]

mate, I couldn't tell you what KV MKS is, let alone how accurate the information is.

 

[kschachn]

For me if the oil doesn't carry the specification required by the bike manufacturer, I wouldn't use it regardless of how close the viscosity, NOACK, or pour point may appear.

But maybe that's just me.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Well, what you've given us is not complete by any means, but the best I can tell is:

The stuff you wanted is a 40 grade oil (4T) with a JASO MA for shared sump.

Q: Is the oil going into your gearbox and clutch, is you clutch under oil?

The Yamalube marine oil is a moderate viscosity 30 grade with and average volatility.

I wouldn't hesitate to use with 80HP per liter and under 10K rev limit - possibly twins or one -lungers or putt- abouts, but I wouldn't risk your superbike with this oil.

 

[davenuk]

yes, shared sump, thanks for the comment about the 80hp per litre and 10k limit, that's an interesting way of thinking about it.

can you help educate me further by explaining what about the oil points you in that direction?

as i said , i probably will return it and get the right stuff, i'm interested in the technical aspect.

thanks

 

[BrocLuno]

Shared sump means gear contact. The 10W-30 likely has a higher VII content and less Group III and above base stock... So as time went by, it would shear down closer to the 10 grade base oil. Certainly quicker than the 10W-40 which very likely has much better base oil content...

In the old days, you definitely wanted to use oils with as close a spread as you could. 20W-30 would be better than 10W-30. But chemistry and refining processes have made somewhat useless as a basis for picking better oils. You still want as close a spread as possible, but with the advent of "synthetic" oils, it may well work out that a 10W-40 or a 5W-40 is the better choice... Price point will also give an indicator of what's in there as far as base stocks (within a brand) usually ...

But it really does come down to ratings and approvals. You need that JASO MA to know that you are getting a shear stable oil for shared sumps.

 

[Panzerman]

Your not a idiot. A idiot would have put Yanalube 2R two stroke oil in it and then posted in a year how he had a Yamaha once and they are junk. Your just having a moment.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Shared sump means gear contact. The 10W-30 likely has a higher VII content and less Group III and above base stock... So as time went by, it would shear down closer to the 10 grade base oil. Certainly quicker than the 10W-40 which very likely has much better base oil content...

In the old days, you definitely wanted to use oils with as close a spread as you could. 20W-30 would be better than 10W-30. But chemistry and refining processes have made somewhat useless as a basis for picking better oils. You still want as close a spread as possible, but with the advent of "synthetic" oils, it may well work out that a 10W-40 or a 5W-40 is the better choice... Price point will also give an indicator of what's in there as far as base stocks (within a brand) usually ...

But it really does come down to ratings and approvals. You need that JASO MA to know that you are getting a shear stable oil for shared sumps.
Don't forget the clutch is in the oil as well in a shared sump engine and the bike oil is formulated to aviod clutch problems.

 

[Doog]

Take it back.

 

[davenuk]

thanks for the replies fellas, some interesting stuff to try and digest.

atb

Dave