0w20 and the itch to stay with 5w30

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 24, 2011
Messages
6,170
Location
North Coast
Ok so my new Toyota takes 0w20........I have Toyota care which they will use 0w20 TGMO (which is a blend if I am not mistaken)...but all 3 other 2GR-FE engines I have had have been flawless using PP 5w30.

Should I switch it to 5w30? This is going to drive me nuts......
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
 
Last edited:
Personally, and I'll probably get flamed for this, if I had a car that called for 0w20 I'd use it for 60k miles until the powertrain warranty was up. Then I'd just run 5w30 in it and call it a day.
 
Yes, we have has so many engines blow up because of xw-20 usage, just stay away from it.
whistle.gif


I use xw-20 in my Scion (2AZ-FE engine) as well as my '02 F150 with a 5.4. Not worried about it at all.
 
I had a 10k run on TGMO in the Camry and the results were excellent. It now has PP 0w20 since it was free. TGMO is a full synthetic in the 0w20. Metro Toyota has quarts of TGMO in the 5w30 which is a synthetic blend for $4.25/quart but is currently on sale for $2.99/quart. The only full synthetic that most toyo dealers carry is the 0w20.
 
I wouldn't until the warranty is up. They can deny you warranty coverage if something goes wrong and you have the wrong oil in it.
 
even if I modded my engine and it called for a xxw20 I would still run xxw20. my truck has 3x the horsepower and I still run a 10w30 not a xxw40. I don't want to change pumpability of my oil at all. In my application how fast it can be pumped cold and hot is very important.
 
When it gets down to it, all of us worry about oil much more than we should. Thus this board. My Pilot calls for 0w20 and I plan on using that weight. That being said, I have a few quarts of 5w20 left over from when I had my F150. It will be used in the Pilot.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Personally, and I'll probably get flamed for this, if I had a car that called for 0w20 I'd use it for 60k miles until the powertrain warranty was up. Then I'd just run 5w30 in it and call it a day.


I agree w the above statement
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Personally, and I'll probably get flamed for this, if I had a car that called for 0w20 I'd use it for 60k miles until the powertrain warranty was up. Then I'd just run 5w30 in it and call it a day.


That's what I plan to do with my Civic.
0W30 or 5W30 after the 60k
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Doog
.....I have Toyota care which they will use 0w20 TGMO


I asked the service writer what 0w-20 oil they used with Toyota Care on our '14 RAV4, he told me it was a CONOCO product, not TGMO. You may want that in writing or something.
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I wouldn't until the warranty is up. They can deny you warranty coverage if something goes wrong and you have the wrong oil in it.
Really?
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Personally, and I'll probably get flamed for this, if I had a car that called for 0w20 I'd use it for 60k miles until the powertrain warranty was up. Then I'd just run 5w30 in it and call it a day.


That's if it'll make it to 60,000 miles ...
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I wouldn't until the warranty is up. They can deny you warranty coverage if something goes wrong and you have the wrong oil in it.
Really?


In Oz they only look at the oil if it's an oil related failure, and these are very rare.

Most warranty claims I have heard about are to do with little things like wipers, radio and such. If it's ever something big like engine, transmission or suspension, the fault tends to show itself pretty quickly.
 
I had the same dilemma a with my Toyota product, switched to a blend of 0w20/5w30 Mobil 1 synthetic. Everything seems fine.

TGMO 0w20 synthetic is a good oil though, but don't be surprised if the dealer isn't even using it in your car, because a lot of Toyota dealers don't even bother.
 
Last edited:
Other than start up flow, it basically comes down to a difference in HT/HS: 2.6 to 3.1. Some of the 0w20's have a HT/HS of 2.7 and the 5w20's around 2.75. M1 0w30/5w30 have a HT/HS of 3.0.

I'd use a good full syn 0w20 and not worry about it. As the engine ages, moving up to a 5w30 would be fine although not necessarily needed.

As I've mentioned before I do prefer the M1 EP 0w20 due to the low NOACK of 10% which will minimize varnish/deposits around the ring area and keep the pistons clean.
 
Originally Posted By: Doog
Ok so my new Toyota takes 0w20........I have Toyota care which they will use 0w20 TGMO (which is a blend if I am not mistaken)...but all 3 other 2GR-FE engines I have had have been flawless using PP 5w30.

Should I switch it to 5w30? This is going to drive me nuts......
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif



The F150 gets 5w30, specified 5w20.

The reasoning is three fold:

1) Ford just went to 5w30 from 5w20 in the 6.2 gasser in the HD pickups, so obviously a 20 weight isn't protecting like it should.

2) Ford Mustang with 5.0 specified for up to 5w50 in the track pack - same oiling system as the truck version, so no oil circulation issues going heavier.

and 3) Toyota itself specifies 20 weight for most applications, but in those owner's manuals it says that for high altitude, high sustained speeds, or towing, that a higher viscosity is required for adequate protection.

I'm considering trying a 40 weight, as well as a long term test using -20 -30 and -40 weights with UOA on all three.
 
Last edited:
0W20 runs perfectly well. Stick with a solid synthetic and enjoy other life pursuits. I promise you'll see no additional wear on that engine, and in fact it will run cooler and with better fuel economy. Maybe, if it uses some oil past 100K, you might consider a thicker grade to curb oil burn.
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: Doog
Ok so my new Toyota takes 0w20........I have Toyota care which they will use 0w20 TGMO (which is a blend if I am not mistaken)...but all 3 other 2GR-FE engines I have had have been flawless using PP 5w30.

Should I switch it to 5w30? This is going to drive me nuts......
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif
crazy2.gif



The F150 gets 5w30, specified 5w20.

The reasoning is three fold:

1) Ford just went to 5w30 from 5w20 in the 6.2 gasser in the HD pickups, so obviously a 20 weight isn't protecting like it should.

2) Ford Mustang with 5.0 specified for up to 5w50 in the track pack - same oiling system as the truck version, so no oil circulation issues going heavier.

and 3) Toyota itself specifies 20 weight for most applications, but in those owner's manuals it says that for high altitude, high sustained speeds, or towing, that a higher viscosity is required for adequate protection.

I'm considering trying a 40 weight, as well as a long term test using -20 -30 and -40 weights with UOA on all three.


Makes a lot of sense for Ford to switch the spec to 5w30 for the 6.2 V8, i.e the engine in the Raptor, these engines are driven HARD and often they are supercharged, i wonder what the new Ecboboost Raptor will spec as it's a specially tuned and beefed up engine
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Personally, and I'll probably get flamed for this, if I had a car that called for 0w20 I'd use it for 60k miles until the powertrain warranty was up. Then I'd just run 5w30 in it and call it a day.


No flames intended. I see comments like this often, in fact I've made similar suggestions over the years. After giving it quite a bit of thought here's a question that pops up in my head from time to time. If you have faith in the product for the length of the warranty, why when the warranty is up you'd change to something different? If the 5W30 is going to provide better protection wouldn't you want to use it from day one? I realize it is the warranty carrot the mfg. is dangling but there's something to think about.

Fortunately some owners manuals state something along the lines that 5W20 is recommended but 5W30 can be used. At least in that case 5W30 shouldn't be an issue with the warranty.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top