Honda EM7000is stored too long with fuel

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We have a neighbor with a Honda EM7000is inverter, 17 hours on the odometer (LED panel), stored for about 4 months with fuel and it will not start.

Here is what I did.

Drained the tank, about 1 gallon of fuel.
Filled a new 5 Gal container with 92 octane (not ethanol free) fuel from Chevron and treated it with 1 oz of Mechanic in a Bottle (per MIB directions).
Filled about 1 gallon and used a fresh battery (also cranked manually) to attempt re-start about 4 or 5 times.
Removed sparkplug, examined it, looks like brand new (should be with just 17 hours).
Drained the tank again and re-filled with about 1 gallon.
Tried both manual and battery assisted start, will not fire.

Normally this thing starts up within 3 to 4 seconds as I have started it up previously for neighbor and I saw it run last time in Feb 2016, ran just fine.

I was traveling and dealing with funerals so did not keep up with my monthly visits to ensure all small machines are running.

The carburator does not have an easy access center plug but the drain line (drain plug on bottom side has a tube line for draining fuel) is below the carb bottom plug and re-filled fuel is clear as I have now drained it a couple times.

Have not done this but what if I remove the air filter cover on bottom and attempt to spray something like ether/WD40/something else ? It does not an adjustable Choke as I think these models use an automatic Choke. This is not the Fuel Injected new model but about 5 years old and always stored dry, that is, until now.

Suggestions ?
 
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Clogged jet. Disassemble and clean the jets and it will start. This is very common with todays fuels. I ALWAYS use Stabil for my equipment that sits for any amount of time.
 
I know we talk about people's experiences with fuel life a lot on this forum, but 4 months has never been an issue for me, even with untreated fuel. Maybe the Florida heat had something to do with it. The OPE I've had to work on due to stale fuel sat for "years".
 
Honda jets, in my experience, are the worst for clogging when left with fuel.

Next time, I would install an inline shutoff and run the generator until it does of fuel starvation.

Shouldn't be too difficult to clean - remove the bowl, use a small flathead screwdriver to unscrew the nut below the jet (in the center post), remove nut and jet. Then clean with the metal inside of a twist-tie (the kind you'd get when you purchase a loaf of bread).

Reassemble.
 
all good points.

you *might* get it to start and pull enough vacuum with a shot of ether to get it to pull some fresh fuel in and work the clog out after several hours of running. While a long shot, I'd try it before taking it all apart.

IF the clog is a full clog, you will have to follow the above. I do think, also, that 4 months is not very long.

Every gallon of gas I buy for my OPE gets treated with stabil. This has greatly reduced hard starts after downtime.
 
I had an old Honda GCV160 lawnmower that had set for a few years.
I put Mechanic in a Bottle in full strength for about two weeks.
Later added a few oz of gas and cranked.
Started up and has run ever since.
YMMV
 
Check for spark, air and fuel. If the air filter isnt clogged and you have spark then it is most likey a jet. I also agree with using stabil only fuel in the OPE, i personally use the blue. You can try draining the fuel tank and add strait seafoam or MIB and that might be enough to get it started and then it will sort itself out. If not then you are going to have to take it apart, not too hard but would take sometime.
 
I watched this little episode as the 3000 is similar while not same as the 7000 series but will attempt all suggestions given and post an update. If I follow the video, must purchase some parts for the carb disassembly. Thank you all.
 
Originally Posted By: Bud_One
I put Mechanic in a Bottle in full strength for about two weeks.
Later added a few oz of gas and cranked. Started up and has run ever since.


Was the mower fuel emptied out before adding the MIB full strength ? What quantity ? Quart ?
 
Originally Posted By: henni
Originally Posted By: Bud_One
I put Mechanic in a Bottle in full strength for about two weeks.
Later added a few oz of gas and cranked. Started up and has run ever since.


Was the mower fuel emptied out before adding the MIB full strength ? What quantity ? Quart ?


Yes, the tank was completely empty and carb was empty.
I added the whole 4oz to the tank , cranked a few times with the choke on and let it set in the carb.
then added a few splashes of fuel the next time.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Is there a fuel shut-off on this model?


Yes and the Fuel Valve was in the Off position, as I had to move it to On in order to drain fuel (and also when attempting normal Start.
 
Originally Posted By: meep
all good points.

you *might* get it to start and pull enough vacuum with a shot of ether to get it to pull some fresh fuel in and work the clog out after several hours of running. While a long shot, I'd try it before taking it all apart.

IF the clog is a full clog, you will have to follow the above. I do think, also, that 4 months is not very long.

Every gallon of gas I buy for my OPE gets treated with stabil. This has greatly reduced hard starts after downtime.
+1 Your advise has worked for me more than once.
 
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Have you checked the oil level? Honda generators have low oil shutoffs. I just mention it because it caught me once. I was going thru all the checks, cleaning the carb, and it was driving me nuts. Finally remembered to check the oil and it was a little low. I added a bit to fill it and then it started fine.
 
Originally Posted By: henni
I watched this little episode as the 3000 is similar while not same as the 7000 series but will attempt all suggestions given and post an update. If I follow the video, must purchase some parts for the carb disassembly. Thank you all.



You don't need parts if you're careful removing the gaskets without tearing them, or if the machine is super old then you probably need a rebuild kit, but basically all you do is take the nut off on the bowl of the carburetor, pull the pin out that holds the float on and then it will drop down along with the needle. Now This hole that the needle sits in is the main jet and 9 times out of 10 it picks up a piece of crud or just gets clogged, but this is the part you spray the carb cleaner into. I've done only this several times on carbs I knew weren't that bad and it's almost always worked like a charm, now if you get it back together and it pours fuel out of the carb, slam the generator on the ground to allow the need to set properly. (The part you just took all apart)
 
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
... but basically all you do is take the nut off on the bowl of the carburetor, pull the pin out that holds the float on and then it will drop down along with the needle. Now This hole that the needle sits in is the main jet and 9 times out of 10 it picks up a piece of crud or just gets clogged, but this is the part you spray the carb cleaner into..


Yes, watching the smaller 3000 series would imply that direction. There is no simple way to access "the bowl" as in the EM7000is model, it is even more parts to remove to get access to the parts.

Will allow MIB to "do it's thing" for a couple more days, even at full strength (4 oz in an otherwise empty tank and drained carb) and then try one more re-start. That failing, will proceed with disassembly process.
 
Originally Posted By: henni
Ok, a little help on how to clean jets ?


Take it to a small engine mechanic and have the carburetor rebuilt.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: henni
Ok, a little help on how to clean jets ?


Take it to a small engine mechanic and have the carburetor rebuilt.


You spray carb cleaner into them, unfortunately, if you don't know what every part his on these carbs then you're just wasting your time and you're better off just taking it to someone who knows how to fix it. I get so tired of listening to people explain how they spent hours doing everything but what will fix the problem.
 
2016_07_04_12_09_17.jpg


It was surprisingly easy to get access and completely remove the carburetor, just 2 phillips screws to loosen and 2 10mm bolts to remove and entire carb slided out.

Next, a 14mm bolt under the carb revealed the float and as you can see in image, it was very clean. What darkness you see is due to lighting conditions and phone camera. No yellowing, it looks all brand new (and should with just 17 hours).

Inserted a twisty tie wire into the 2 areas marked with Red Arrow and there does not appear to be any blockage but I do not know if I should remove more parts. I took off the Center Screw (Larger Red Arrow) but did not actually remove the float which also appeared very clean on both sides.

Put it all together again, filled with fresh 92 octane and it does not start.
 
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