Sorry, I haven't been on here for awhile. Last subject was experimenting with different
types of oils in an attempt to get the freewheel device to engage in my Trabant 601.
I ended up having to pull the engine and transmission and replace it. But it has been OK ever since.
The latest project: Putting my Yugo 1500 turbo back on the road. Back before I was
married, I had allot of time on my hand. Too much time you might say to hot rod a Yugo.
The car is a 1987 Yugo. I removed the 55hp 1100cc engine and installed a 75 hp 1500 Fiat engine.
It's like removing a Chevy 305 and going with a 350. Bigger displacement but bolts right in.
I then added a T25 turbo from a Saab 9000. I'm blowing through a Weber DFTA. Fuel pump is
a diesel pusher pump (20 PSI max). I'm using a Malpassi 1:1 fuel pressure regulator from a carbed
Maserati bi-turbo. The ignition is a GM HEI 5 pin control module which retards the timing 5
degrees under boost.
Here's some pics:
Due to family obligations, more pressing projects, lack of time, etc. The Yugo's
wheel bearing, tie rod, and inner CV joint replacement project have been put on
the back burner. I have not driven this car on the road in almost two years. It's
been sitting in the corner of my garage. But did start it briefly last summer.
I think I pressed the wheel bearings in wrong and that's why they
failed. But the car has so much torque steer it's hard to keep them tightened up.
I had to get Dad's tractor going so I had the battery from the tractor in my Yugo
hooked to a trickle charger since last fall. The engine fired right up.
The goal was to get the car out and let it idle for about 3o minutes before
transferring the battery back to the tractor. And parking it in my garage with
the nose end facing the opposite direction so I put it the front end on
jackstands and start pulling the hubs and axles off.
I also took it for a spin up the driveway kicking in the turbo. What a blast.
But here is my question. What worried me was even after 30 minutes of idling the
engine tends to smoke. Just a little bit. But nowhere near as bad as when it did
when the seals went out in the turbo.
I wedged a screwdriver between the throttle and carb to speed the engine up to
around 2000 rpms and expected to see more smoke but no more and somewhat less if
that is hard to believe.
So if an engine has sat for about a year is that expected?
The thing is I could not tell if the smoke was actually blue from burning oil.
Could have been black but the engine was idling and running as smooth as ever.
Could it be burning off carbon or oil that had leaked down into the cylinders
from sitting for so long?
Stuck ring? I've heard you can spray the cylinders full of PB Blaster to loosen
a stuck ring.
My Explorer with 120K miles will smoke for about 30 seconds if it sits for any
length of time but stops.
I know this sounds crazy coming from a guy with a 2 cycle Trabant that will lay
a trail of smoke for 1/4" mile until it warms up but a smoking Yugo is
embarrassing. These cars had a bad reputation for being a piece of [censored] to begin
with, I just don't want to give anyone more power for the course.
I'm hoping once I get the car back on the road and put some miles on the car,
everything will be OK.
Actually I don't mind adding a quart of oil every now and then. My 98 Chevy van
has 140,000 miles on it and oddly enough did not use any oil on the 400 mile
trip to the beach but burned almost 1/2 a quart in 300 miles from just driving in
stop and go traffic. Then once again did not use any oil on the 400 miles trip
home. That's weird.
If my Yugo engine does have a stuck ring are there any tricks to freeing it up?
I've heard pouring Marvel's Mystery oil or PB Blaster down the carburater and letting it sit for a few days.
But if the intake valves are closed on that particular cylinder, will it eventually leak past the valve seats and
into the combustion chamber?
I've heard of people mixing 50/50 automatic transmission fluid with motor oil, driving
100 miles then dumping it then repeat until the problem goes away. Because automatic transmission fluid
contains allot of detergents.
I've heard of putting some many ounces of Seafoam in the oil. I tried using Seafoam in the
fuel on my Trabant to see if it would "de-carbonize" the head and piston. I took the plugs
out and did not notice any difference.
Anybody got any other tricks?
types of oils in an attempt to get the freewheel device to engage in my Trabant 601.
I ended up having to pull the engine and transmission and replace it. But it has been OK ever since.
The latest project: Putting my Yugo 1500 turbo back on the road. Back before I was
married, I had allot of time on my hand. Too much time you might say to hot rod a Yugo.
The car is a 1987 Yugo. I removed the 55hp 1100cc engine and installed a 75 hp 1500 Fiat engine.
It's like removing a Chevy 305 and going with a 350. Bigger displacement but bolts right in.
I then added a T25 turbo from a Saab 9000. I'm blowing through a Weber DFTA. Fuel pump is
a diesel pusher pump (20 PSI max). I'm using a Malpassi 1:1 fuel pressure regulator from a carbed
Maserati bi-turbo. The ignition is a GM HEI 5 pin control module which retards the timing 5
degrees under boost.
Here's some pics:
Due to family obligations, more pressing projects, lack of time, etc. The Yugo's
wheel bearing, tie rod, and inner CV joint replacement project have been put on
the back burner. I have not driven this car on the road in almost two years. It's
been sitting in the corner of my garage. But did start it briefly last summer.
I think I pressed the wheel bearings in wrong and that's why they
failed. But the car has so much torque steer it's hard to keep them tightened up.
I had to get Dad's tractor going so I had the battery from the tractor in my Yugo
hooked to a trickle charger since last fall. The engine fired right up.
The goal was to get the car out and let it idle for about 3o minutes before
transferring the battery back to the tractor. And parking it in my garage with
the nose end facing the opposite direction so I put it the front end on
jackstands and start pulling the hubs and axles off.
I also took it for a spin up the driveway kicking in the turbo. What a blast.
But here is my question. What worried me was even after 30 minutes of idling the
engine tends to smoke. Just a little bit. But nowhere near as bad as when it did
when the seals went out in the turbo.
I wedged a screwdriver between the throttle and carb to speed the engine up to
around 2000 rpms and expected to see more smoke but no more and somewhat less if
that is hard to believe.
So if an engine has sat for about a year is that expected?
The thing is I could not tell if the smoke was actually blue from burning oil.
Could have been black but the engine was idling and running as smooth as ever.
Could it be burning off carbon or oil that had leaked down into the cylinders
from sitting for so long?
Stuck ring? I've heard you can spray the cylinders full of PB Blaster to loosen
a stuck ring.
My Explorer with 120K miles will smoke for about 30 seconds if it sits for any
length of time but stops.
I know this sounds crazy coming from a guy with a 2 cycle Trabant that will lay
a trail of smoke for 1/4" mile until it warms up but a smoking Yugo is
embarrassing. These cars had a bad reputation for being a piece of [censored] to begin
with, I just don't want to give anyone more power for the course.
I'm hoping once I get the car back on the road and put some miles on the car,
everything will be OK.
Actually I don't mind adding a quart of oil every now and then. My 98 Chevy van
has 140,000 miles on it and oddly enough did not use any oil on the 400 mile
trip to the beach but burned almost 1/2 a quart in 300 miles from just driving in
stop and go traffic. Then once again did not use any oil on the 400 miles trip
home. That's weird.
If my Yugo engine does have a stuck ring are there any tricks to freeing it up?
I've heard pouring Marvel's Mystery oil or PB Blaster down the carburater and letting it sit for a few days.
But if the intake valves are closed on that particular cylinder, will it eventually leak past the valve seats and
into the combustion chamber?
I've heard of people mixing 50/50 automatic transmission fluid with motor oil, driving
100 miles then dumping it then repeat until the problem goes away. Because automatic transmission fluid
contains allot of detergents.
I've heard of putting some many ounces of Seafoam in the oil. I tried using Seafoam in the
fuel on my Trabant to see if it would "de-carbonize" the head and piston. I took the plugs
out and did not notice any difference.
Anybody got any other tricks?