Road Force Balancing

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My 2 cents:

First, normally when tires go onto a Hunter GSP9700, the operator first checks to see if the road force value is excessive.

What's excessive? My experience says that varies a lot with the locale and the operator. With sophisticated operators, it will also vary according to the type of vehicle (which is another way of saying with the type of tire). However, there are built in tolerances to the machine, which are frequently used by less sophisticated operators.

When an excessive value is encountered, there is a procedure to check the wheel. Unless the bare wheel is measured (rarely!), the runout of the wheel is measured using the wheel flanges. The value obtained this way is somewhat suspect, but because it is fairly easy to do and generally produces reasonable results, most folks rely on it.

Further it indicates a low point of the wheel which can be used to line up with the high point of the tire to obtain a "more round" assembly. The machine will tell the operator where these points are and predicts a value if done. This helps the operator decide if it is worth the trouble.

Note, that there is a procedure to measure a bare wheel and that is a whole lot more accurate, but it is time consuming!

Originally Posted By: Traction
I've always wondered about another potential problem, that no wheel balancer can check under load, at 80+ MPH. If you had a perfectly round, balanced wheel, and had a round tire, but it takes an excessive amount weight to balance out a heavy spot in the tread of the tire. I would think the centrifugal force of many pounds from the surface of the tire, would cause that section to stretch outwards, thumping the road, and eventually wear it out round, and then be out for balance again?


Traction,

Road Force has nothing whatsoever to do with balance. It has to do with the combination of stiffness and runout - commonly called *Uniformity*.

But once a tire is balanced, it is balanced for 2 mph and 200 mph. The only difference would be the weight increments needed to balance with a tolerance necessary for the speed. My experience says that the 1/4 ounce (5 grams) is more than adequate for up to 80 mph - and maybe more.

Further, balance is not really dependent on the load on the tire.

HOWEVER, Road Force (Uniformity) is not only speed dependent it is also load dependent. The problem is that tires not only change amount at high speed, but the high point also changes location at high speeds. The one thing that can be said is that tires with low, low speed values yield low, high speed values, and tires with his high, low speed values are unpredictable.

Further, since the diameter of the wheel on the machine is fairly small, it tends to emphasize small duration events, while de-emphasizing long duration events. That is, the machine can give both high values for a tire assembly that is really a low value assembly, and vice versa.

With all of that said, that is why I say the Hunter GSP9700 is a great diagnostic tool, but not necessarily a good screening tool. Not only can the machine cause a good assembly to be rejected, but it can accept a bad assembly.

My experience also says that balance and uniformity aren't big contributors to irregular wear - but alignment is. There have been a number of studies where perfectly balanced assemblies with low uniformity values will turn into high uniformity tires based on the amount of toe.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
On the Trailblazer, it was silky smooth with the previous tires, then got a new set of Continentals and at been vibrations ever since for the past 18 months. Discount Tire balanced them 3 times and road force balanced them the last time. It may have helped a little, but there's still a vibration. I'll take it back again.


Shock or other component on its way out? Perhaps some slight imbalance made worse due to something else not being up to snuff.
I put brand new struts & springs up front a week before I had the tires put on, and new shocks in the rear. Unfortunately, I hate to say it, but the old Michelins were the ones that were silky smooth. Although I'd rather have a minor vibration with the Continentals than have Michelins that dry rot every 3 years. It also has since gotten new upper ball joints and an alignment.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
On the Trailblazer, it was silky smooth with the previous tires, then got a new set of Continentals and at been vibrations ever since for the past 18 months. Discount Tire balanced them 3 times and road force balanced them the last time. It may have helped a little, but there's still a vibration. I'll take it back again.

Your DT has both standard machine and Road Force machine ?
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
On the Trailblazer, it was silky smooth with the previous tires, then got a new set of Continentals and at been vibrations ever since for the past 18 months. Discount Tire balanced them 3 times and road force balanced them the last time. It may have helped a little, but there's still a vibration. I'll take it back again.

I've experienced a similar issue with DT + new BFG's. The counter guy lied about their capabilities. Got the shop manager involved finally and watched all the work.

Wound up picking 3 out of 7 brand new BFG's just to get the roundest ones. All three had to be separated from the rims, moved, remounted, then rebalanced, then reinstalled. Made a world of difference but what a PITA.....

My one remaining Michelin spun very true with no tread walking.

You can read all about it in a past post if interested.

To the OP: You may have to stand there and watch the shop kids and check your tires yourself as well. Get the shop manager involved. Don't just assume they're doing the work. I found communication between the counter dude & shop very poor.

Trust, but Verify.
 
i have had my F150 road forced balanced 4 times at the dealer
and it still vibrates at 80+MPH .
Called the MFG (Hankook) and he thinks its because the heavy side (the painted dot) is 180 degrees out ...Yes the ford plant mounted the tires wrong at the factory and the dealer is too stupid to know what that dot means,,

Hankook says take it to sears which worrys me but I need all my tires broken down and redone
 
Originally Posted By: Excel
i have had my F150 road forced balanced 4 times at the dealer
and it still vibrates at 80+MPH .
Called the MFG (Hankook) and he thinks its because the heavy side (the painted dot) is 180 degrees out ...Yes the ford plant mounted the tires wrong at the factory and the dealer is too stupid to know what that dot means,,

Hankook says take it to sears which worrys me but I need all my tires broken down and redone


First, if the dealer road forced the tires 4 times, then either their technician doesn't know what the machine is telling him (quite possible), or the problem is not in the tires and wheels (what I'm betting on.)

Also, if the Ford plant mounted the tires 180 degrees out of phase, then the Road Force procedure should have indicated that.

So let's start down the check list:

1) Is the vibration in the steering wheel (front) or in the seat (rear).

If the vibration is not confined to either of those, then it is not likely to be tires/wheels. Look somewhere else.

2) Rotate the tires. If the vibration moved or disappeared, then the offending parts are on the end opposite to where the vibration was previously.

If the vibration didn't move, the problem is not tires/wheels.

3) Wheel end vibrations show up in the 50 mph to 70 mph range. If the vibration is not in that range, tires/wheels is not likely the source.
 
Actually every time they re balanced it got a smidge better than it was prior
IMO its mostly felt in the rear . Maybe the folks working the machines at FORD
have no idea what they are doing,some of the road force numbers seemed high @11

Under 78 its fine over 78 and I get a shimmy




Originally Posted By: CapriRacer
Originally Posted By: Excel
i have had my F150 road forced balanced 4 times at the dealer
and it still vibrates at 80+MPH .
Called the MFG (Hankook) and he thinks its because the heavy side (the painted dot) is 180 degrees out ...Yes the ford plant mounted the tires wrong at the factory and the dealer is too stupid to know what that dot means,,

Hankook says take it to sears which worrys me but I need all my tires broken down and redone


First, if the dealer road forced the tires 4 times, then either their technician doesn't know what the machine is telling him (quite possible), or the problem is not in the tires and wheels (what I'm betting on.)

Also, if the Ford plant mounted the tires 180 degrees out of phase, then the Road Force procedure should have indicated that.

So let's start down the check list:

1) Is the vibration in the steering wheel (front) or in the seat (rear).

If the vibration is not confined to either of those, then it is not likely to be tires/wheels. Look somewhere else.

2) Rotate the tires. If the vibration moved or disappeared, then the offending parts are on the end opposite to where the vibration was previously.

If the vibration didn't move, the problem is not tires/wheels.

3) Wheel end vibrations show up in the 50 mph to 70 mph range. If the vibration is not in that range, tires/wheels is not likely the source.
 
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Originally Posted By: Excel
Actually every time they re balanced it got a smidge better than it was prior
IMO its mostly felt in the rear . Maybe the folks working the machines at FORD
have no idea what they are doing,some of the road force numbers seemed high @11

Under 78 its fine over 78 and I get a shimmy


This is sounding more and more like it isn't tires. 11 is a pretty good number for a car - and you have a truck! 1/2 ton trucks should be tolerant of tires in the 20's!

I suggest you do a front to rear rotation. If the problem is tires and wheels, then the problem should move to the steering wheel. I'll bet it doesn't. And if it doesn't, my money is on u joints.
 
Originally Posted By: CapriRacer
Originally Posted By: Excel
Actually every time they re balanced it got a smidge better than it was prior
IMO its mostly felt in the rear . Maybe the folks working the machines at FORD
have no idea what they are doing,some of the road force numbers seemed high @11

Under 78 its fine over 78 and I get a shimmy


This is sounding more and more like it isn't tires. 11 is a pretty good number for a car - and you have a truck! 1/2 ton trucks should be tolerant of tires in the 20's!

I suggest you do a front to rear rotation. If the problem is tires and wheels, then the problem should move to the steering wheel. I'll bet it doesn't. And if it doesn't, my money is on u joints.

.


Called one of my car guru's and he told me to bring my truck to Perf tire shop near me
where he re balanced all the tires........Now we are 100% vibration free,best 40 bucks I spent

Seems the dealer was at fault and just kept stacking on weights,he said my rims had
weights all over the place. This is why the dealership sucks,incompetent and stupid
 
"Note, that there is a procedure to measure a bare wheel and that is a whole lot more accurate, but it is time consuming!"

Time is the area where we as individuals have the advantage over many shops - who may be pressured to do everything as fast as they can. Therefore, if it's not over complicated this might be something that we would enjoy learning how to do this procedure.

For example, if I end up with a tire assembly out of balance, I wouldn't mind spending the time to check / measure the wheel and perhaps what I learn could help the tire shop to then focus on this issue and correct the problem. However, if the procedure can only be used on the bare wheel that will complicate it for many individuals who usually are dealing with a tire assembly.
 
Originally Posted By: Excel
Originally Posted By: CapriRacer
Originally Posted By: Excel
Actually every time they re balanced it got a smidge better than it was prior
IMO its mostly felt in the rear . Maybe the folks working the machines at FORD
have no idea what they are doing,some of the road force numbers seemed high @11

Under 78 its fine over 78 and I get a shimmy


This is sounding more and more like it isn't tires. 11 is a pretty good number for a car - and you have a truck! 1/2 ton trucks should be tolerant of tires in the 20's!

I suggest you do a front to rear rotation. If the problem is tires and wheels, then the problem should move to the steering wheel. I'll bet it doesn't. And if it doesn't, my money is on u joints.

.


Called one of my car guru's and he told me to bring my truck to Perf tire shop near me
where he re balanced all the tires........Now we are 100% vibration free,best 40 bucks I spent

Seems the dealer was at fault and just kept stacking on weights,he said my rims had
weights all over the place. This is why the dealership sucks,incompetent and stupid



Good to hear you got it fixed. So the problem was simply, the tires were out of balance.

BTW, it isn't that stacking the weights causes a problem, but it is a lazy way to do it. But I suspect there was some other problem that was causing them to chase the balance. Perhaps they weren't centering the wheels correctly? Been known to happen.
 
I once had a set of Firestones on a CR-V that wouldn't balance. I ended up taking it to the Honda dealer for a Hunter road force balance. The tech there really knew what he was doing, and also reported that the Firestone guy stacked the tape weights on top of each other. He stripped everything down balanced it on the Hunter machine, and they were MUCH better. Still not 100% I don't think, but significantly better.

It really does depend on the individual technician.
 
Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
How often do Balance machines need to be calibrated? Is it possible the Fords machine was out of Cal?


Im not sure, but when I was at TLE I did it whenever I had time; at least once a week.

And yeah, its sounds like a calibration issue, or the inputs to the machine (wheel size, width and flange distance) were not set correctly. Either of those will cause a chasing-weight issue where you put what the machine wants, and then it comes back and wants more in a different spot. Which it sounds like happened with the OPs wheel with weights scattered all over. It should only need weight in one spot on each side. If there is weight in two or more different spots, something is wrong.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
How often do Balance machines need to be calibrated? Is it possible the Fords machine was out of Cal?


Im not sure, but when I was at TLE I did it whenever I had time; at least once a week.



Interesting, Is there a calibration wheel to hook up to verify the machine is within spec?


From what I see the Hunter Machines are made so a dummy can use them(Not necessarily a bad thing), what if the same dummy calibrates it and is not careful and screws up the cal? Or is there a master cal that only a Trained Rep can do?
 
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Never used a Hunter; TLE has Coats so I can't speak for them. But, on those a calibration was a calibration. And yes, its totally possible to do a bad calibration. Had that happen a few times and I had to re-do it. I always figured it out cause the machine was telling me stupid numbers. Put the weights on and do the check spin and it wants more weight 120 degrees off the original spot or something.

The calibration wheel just has to be a 195 tire on 14 inch wheel, so we just kept one stashed away.
 
Yes, the Hunter machine has a calibration procedure than involves adding a known weight to the machine. It's pretty easy and i wonder how often it is really needed. The one I used never seemed to need calibration - even though we did did it on a regular basis according to some ISO document.
 
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