Bought my first 0w-20 oil today

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So... After going for a while trying to convince myself, that the thin 0w-20 oil will protect the little engine in the family Suzuki good enough(the manual says so) I finally bought a liter just for top of. I chose Castrol magnatec pro GF 0w-20. So anyone here who have used this oil? Any UOA on it yet? I Will use it at next oil change. Unless I hear something bad about it.

Thanks all.

Søren

tBsogeg
 
If it's a Suzuki, you must have had it awhile. So why the switch? I think you will find that it's not a big deal. Alot of people make a big deal any think thicker oil pumps slower, worse fuel mileage etc..
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
If it's a Suzuki, you must have had it awhile. So why the switch? I think you will find that it's not a big deal. Alot of people make a big deal any think thicker oil pumps slower, worse fuel mileage etc..


The car is only 3 month old. You can still buy new suzukis here in Denmark.
 
We ran the Magnatec 0w20 that's sold here in our CX-9 for a winter. It made the car run noticeably louder but the UOA came out fine. It's full synthetic.
 
I assume from your post that you're on the factory fill or you've been to the dealer during the warranty period.
You did say it was the first you bought and you bought it for topping off.

I care for a 2010 Honda the manual for which says 5W-20. Sis bought a 2013 Mazda3i Touring. It takes 0W-20.
I bought a slew of 0W-20 on sale so that's what both get.

Smooth sailing. The "Fear of Thinness" is to be ignored.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
I assume from your post that you're on the factory fill or you've been to the dealer during the warranty period.
You did say it was the first you bought and you bought it for topping off.

I care for a 2010 Honda the manual for which says 5W-20. Sis bought a 2013 Mazda3i Touring. It takes 0W-20.
I bought a slew of 0W-20 on sale so that's what both get.

Smooth sailing. The "Fear of Thinness" is to be ignored.


"The fear of thinness" is a real mental disorder here on BITOG. I've been using 0-20 for years with great results.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Kira
I assume from your post that you're on the factory fill or you've been to the dealer during the warranty period.
You did say it was the first you bought and you bought it for topping off.

I care for a 2010 Honda the manual for which says 5W-20. Sis bought a 2013 Mazda3i Touring. It takes 0W-20.
I bought a slew of 0W-20 on sale so that's what both get.

Smooth sailing. The "Fear of Thinness" is to be ignored.


"The fear of thinness" is a real mental disorder here on BITOG. I've been using 0-20 for years with great results.


Look at all of the evidence, though. Every engine that has spec'd 0w-20 from the factory blows up right around 50,000 miles. This Suzuki will spin, literally, every bearing. Cam bearings, main bearings, rod bearings ....

In all seriousness, there is a real fear of thin oil here. I plan on towing my popup camper with my Ford Focus with 0w-20 in the engine and have not a single fear.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Kira
I assume from your post that you're on the factory fill or you've been to the dealer during the warranty period.
You did say it was the first you bought and you bought it for topping off.

I care for a 2010 Honda the manual for which says 5W-20. Sis bought a 2013 Mazda3i Touring. It takes 0W-20.
I bought a slew of 0W-20 on sale so that's what both get.

Smooth sailing. The "Fear of Thinness" is to be ignored.


"The fear of thinness" is a real mental disorder here on BITOG. I've been using 0-20 for years with great results.


Look at all of the evidence, though. Every engine that has spec'd 0w-20 from the factory blows up right around 50,000 miles. This Suzuki will spin, literally, every bearing. Cam bearings, main bearings, rod bearings ....

In all seriousness, there is a real fear of thin oil here. I plan on towing my popup camper with my Ford Focus with 0w-20 in the engine and have not a single fear.


What is the weight of the camper? And what is the HP your Focus engine? I tow a utility trl with my Focus at times. It's a 5X8. The most wt I towed was around 1800 lbs. Pulled it OK, but not far.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
I assume from your post that you're on the factory fill or you've been to the dealer during the warranty period.
You did say it was the first you bought and you bought it for topping off.

I care for a 2010 Honda the manual for which says 5W-20. Sis bought a 2013 Mazda3i Touring. It takes 0W-20.
I bought a slew of 0W-20 on sale so that's what both get.

Smooth sailing. The "Fear of Thinness" is to be ignored.


Yes i am on factory fill. For now it is only for topping off. But i am planing on using it for the first oilchange. I have not decided if i Will change every 7500 km(Hard use) or 15.000 km(ordinary use)
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Look at all of the evidence, though. Every engine that has spec'd 0w-20 from the factory blows up right around 50,000 miles. This Suzuki will spin, literally, every bearing. Cam bearings, main bearings, rod bearings ....

In all seriousness, there is a real fear of thin oil here. I plan on towing my popup camper with my Ford Focus with 0w-20 in the engine and have not a single fear.


I like the cut of your jib. My Focus came to me from it's previous (original) owner with a hitch and drawbar installed. Supposedly used to tow a jet-ski. He told me it lived on 5w-20 synthetic blend it's whole life (until I just recently started on my 0w-30 AZ clearance oil). The engine is quiet save for the rattling exhaust manifold heat shield and I'd wager that if I fixed that and the bad motor mount it would be difficult to tell if it's running or not.

The facts are simply this Xw-20's simply DO NOT LUBRICATE.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Look at all of the evidence, though. Every engine that has spec'd 0w-20 from the factory blows up right around 50,000 miles. This Suzuki will spin, literally, every bearing. Cam bearings, main bearings, rod bearings ....

In all seriousness, there is a real fear of thin oil here. I plan on towing my popup camper with my Ford Focus with 0w-20 in the engine and have not a single fear.


I like the cut of your jib. My Focus came to me from it's previous (original) owner with a hitch and drawbar installed. Supposedly used to tow a jet-ski. He told me it lived on 5w-20 synthetic blend it's whole life (until I just recently started on my 0w-30 AZ clearance oil). The engine is quiet save for the rattling exhaust manifold heat shield and I'd wager that if I fixed that and the bad motor mount it would be difficult to tell if it's running or not.

The facts are simply this Xw-20's simply DO NOT LUBRICATE.


To experiment I may want to try a 0w-30. But I only have 6500 miles on the current fill of PPPPPPPPP 0w-20 and I want to run that out to at least 7500. Shooting for a whole year oil change.



Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Kira
I assume from your post that you're on the factory fill or you've been to the dealer during the warranty period.
You did say it was the first you bought and you bought it for topping off.

I care for a 2010 Honda the manual for which says 5W-20. Sis bought a 2013 Mazda3i Touring. It takes 0W-20.
I bought a slew of 0W-20 on sale so that's what both get.

Smooth sailing. The "Fear of Thinness" is to be ignored.


"The fear of thinness" is a real mental disorder here on BITOG. I've been using 0-20 for years with great results.


Look at all of the evidence, though. Every engine that has spec'd 0w-20 from the factory blows up right around 50,000 miles. This Suzuki will spin, literally, every bearing. Cam bearings, main bearings, rod bearings ....

In all seriousness, there is a real fear of thin oil here. I plan on towing my popup camper with my Ford Focus with 0w-20 in the engine and have not a single fear.


What is the weight of the camper? And what is the HP your Focus engine? I tow a utility trl with my Focus at times. It's a 5X8. The most wt I towed was around 1800 lbs. Pulled it OK, but not far.


The camper weight dry is 830 pounds. I think it weighed in around 850 last time I checked. I will be removing the internal cabinets, stove and propane tank so it will be around 800. Maximum weight rating for it is 1200 pounds but I won't come anywhere near that.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Kira
I assume from your post that you're on the factory fill or you've been to the dealer during the warranty period.
You did say it was the first you bought and you bought it for topping off.

I care for a 2010 Honda the manual for which says 5W-20. Sis bought a 2013 Mazda3i Touring. It takes 0W-20.
I bought a slew of 0W-20 on sale so that's what both get.

Smooth sailing. The "Fear of Thinness" is to be ignored.


"The fear of thinness" is a real mental disorder here on BITOG. I've been using 0-20 for years with great results.


i think nowadays there is more fear toward thicker oils say anything over 15w40, most people now understand 0w20 does fine in modern engines built for that viscosity, using a 20w50 like me seems pretty controversial on this board...
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Kira
I assume from your post that you're on the factory fill or you've been to the dealer during the warranty period.
You did say it was the first you bought and you bought it for topping off.

I care for a 2010 Honda the manual for which says 5W-20. Sis bought a 2013 Mazda3i Touring. It takes 0W-20.
I bought a slew of 0W-20 on sale so that's what both get.

Smooth sailing. The "Fear of Thinness" is to be ignored.


"The fear of thinness" is a real mental disorder here on BITOG. I've been using 0-20 for years with great results.


i think nowadays there is more fear toward thicker oils say anything over 15w40, most people now understand 0w20 does fine in modern engines built for that viscosity, using a 20w50 like me seems pretty controversial on this board...


Most engines will work fine on anything from 0W20 to SAE 70 climate permitting. I don't see anything wrong with 20W50 in the Spanish Isles.

Most of us here obsess about oil. In reality my Supercharged Mustang is more likely to break a piston, bend a rod or shatter an oil pump gear than hurt bearings with 0W20 or 15W50.
 
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Kira
I assume from your post that you're on the factory fill or you've been to the dealer during the warranty period.
You did say it was the first you bought and you bought it for topping off.

I care for a 2010 Honda the manual for which says 5W-20. Sis bought a 2013 Mazda3i Touring. It takes 0W-20.
I bought a slew of 0W-20 on sale so that's what both get.

Smooth sailing. The "Fear of Thinness" is to be ignored.


"The fear of thinness" is a real mental disorder here on BITOG. I've been using 0-20 for years with great results.


i think nowadays there is more fear toward thicker oils say anything over 15w40, most people now understand 0w20 does fine in modern engines built for that viscosity, using a 20w50 like me seems pretty controversial on this board...


Most engines will work fine on anything from 0W20 to SAE 70 climate permitting. I don't see anything wrong with 20W50 in the Spanish Isles.

Most of us here obsess about oil. In reality my Supercharged Mustang is more likely to break a piston, bend a rod or shatter an oil pump gear than hurt bearings with 0W20 or 15W50.



Probably yes
 
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