Oil for High Performance Turbo Application

[ARCOgraphite]

15w40 are eating power you paid big bucks for.

Engine builder usually don't know much about oil other than more power = "thicker oil".

Grp V racing oil. 30 or 40 or blend to desired performance.

Now exactly what "clearances" are loose? Hope he has has them in a build notebook. doubling pwer stresses the block and distorts the main bore. might see 1-1.5 thou bigger ...DEPENDING. Forged pistons + more piston to wall, larger ring end gaps. Rod bigs get funny so they may be 1 thou larger. EX valve stems might be 0.5 thou larger.

 

[ryanm8]

How about M1 15w50? Full synthetic with 1300ppm of zinc.

 

[T_Bortz]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
15w40 are eating power you paid big bucks for.

Engine builder usually don't know much about oil other than more power = "thicker oil".

Grp V racing oil. 30 or 40 or blend to desired performance.

Now exactly what "clearances" are loose? Hope he has has them in a build notebook. doubling pwer stresses the block and distorts the main bore. might see 1-1.5 thou bigger ...DEPENDING. Forged pistons + more piston to wall, larger ring end gaps. Rod bigs get funny so they may be 1 thou larger. EX valve stems might be 0.5 thou larger.


looser on both rod ends and mains. PTW clearance spec'd by CP and unaltered by the builder.

 

[Toaster_Jer]

Exactly that's why I said to monitor things. If OP has sufficient oil pressure at idle and FT, he has the option to go to an excellent 5w-30 which would have less drag on the motor and run cooler. I believe it would have more performance and protection.

 

[T_Bortz]

Originally Posted By: Toaster_Jer
Exactly that's why I said to monitor things. If OP has sufficient oil pressure at idle and FT, he has the option to go to an excellent 5w-30 which would have less drag on the motor and run cooler. I believe it would have more performance and protection.

I think this is exactly what I am going to do. I'll run the 15w-40 for a while and watch oil pressure. Then get a UOA after the next fill and go from there.

Thanks guys!

 

[BillyTheKid]

HDEO and call it a day. Don't extend the drains too long either. It is running boost so you are not going to feel any loss or gain from oil choices and this will protect well.

 

[dailydriver]

Does this engine still have the stock type, 8 valve, SOHC head, or did the builder install a trick, aluminum alloy, 16 valve twin cam Cossie (or whatever) head on it?

 

[Gene K]

Originally Posted By: ryanm8
How about M1 15w50? Full synthetic with 1300ppm of zinc.


That is the most common oil with the low buck street tire boys. Lots of them in the 1000-1400 bhp range.
You should be in a similar HP per cubic inch range.

 

[artificialist]

If 15w40 viscosity is ideal, Royal Purple 15w40 might be a good choice. It has a low viscosity spread and is fully synthetic.

 

[T_Bortz]

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Does this engine still have the stock type, 8 valve, SOHC head, or did the builder install a trick, aluminum alloy, 16 valve twin cam Cossie (or whatever) head on it?


Stock iron head.



Took the car out last night to do a little break in. Oil while cruising around was in the 50psi (+/- 5) range.

Not sure if 15-40 is the "right weight" or not yet. Also, I want to get this oil out, get more Delo in it for a couple hundred miles, then do a UOA on it.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

The car wont be happy going lighter if you wear it in with heavy stuff. If you plan going lighter DO IT NOW or run a motorcycle 4T MA (not MB) rated oil for break in. Get that C- service oil out of your gas engine!

Personally, I have NEVER used a good chevron oil. An Ive tried.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
15w40 are eating power you paid big bucks for.

Engine builder usually don't know much about oil other than more power = "thicker oil".

Grp V racing oil. 30 or 40 or blend to desired performance.

Now exactly what "clearances" are loose? Hope he has has them in a build notebook. doubling pwer stresses the block and distorts the main bore. might see 1-1.5 thou bigger ...DEPENDING. Forged pistons + more piston to wall, larger ring end gaps. Rod bigs get funny so they may be 1 thou larger. EX valve stems might be 0.5 thou larger.
The 15w-40 recommendation is valid.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: T_Bortz
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Does this engine still have the stock type, 8 valve, SOHC head, or did the builder install a trick, aluminum alloy, 16 valve twin cam Cossie (or whatever) head on it?


Stock iron head.



Took the car out last night to do a little break in. Oil while cruising around was in the 50psi (+/- 5) range.

Not sure if 15-40 is the "right weight" or not yet. Also, I want to get this oil out, get more Delo in it for a couple hundred miles, then do a UOA on it.
What will the U.O.A. tell you on a new build?

 

[T_Bortz]

Originally Posted By: CT8
What will the U.O.A. tell you on a new build?


It will help me sleep better. It just feels wrong spending $5k on a motor and then putting $3 Delo dino juice in it...

 

[BrocLuno]

If you have 50 psi at cruise you are close to ideal on oil pressure. Does it go higher when you wing the motor?

So if the 50 psi is not the relief spring pressure, it's a good number and the bearings are are loose enough that side leakage is letting enough oil cross the surface that the pressure is not crazy. It means you are close on viscosity hot.

If you went to say Rotella T6, the pressure might come down a few pounds as the oil has a slightly lower viscosity hot than Delo. Still a stout oil and well proven in about a zillion turbo applications.

Any of these will protect that engine well. They are cheap enough that you can change them often and not get bit in the wallet

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
The car wont be happy going lighter if you wear it in with heavy stuff.


How does that work ?

Is there a mechanical explanation ?

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
The car wont be happy going lighter if you wear it in with heavy stuff.

How does that work ?

Is there a mechanical explanation ?


No, don't you realize there is a mechanical memory that is built up by what you break it in with?

It won't be happy if you change. It won't like it. And apparently it is the whole car, not just the engine.

You want his car to be happy, don't you?

Makes me wonder if the car also gets unhappy if you reverse it, and break it in with the thin stuff and then go heavier.

Food for thought.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Never measured parts during tear down but have noticed nothing tolerated going lighter. Small sample only tried maybe four times but that was enough. We brok in light and then went heavy on high revving BB not SBC unless spinning over 6000 regularly. 10w30 API SE was normal choice with Dexron whale oil mixed in or exclusively.
Where would the excess wear/distortion be to cause memory? Idk. Likely piston to wall, NOT plain bearings. maybe side clears. Never look at ring lands closely during teardown.
Built for Only street racing not SCCA