Transfer Case: move up to 85w140 from 75w140

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In an effort to help reduce wear would moving up to 85w140 be an improvement over 75w140?

This is in a CX-9 with a supposedly lifetime fill, no drain plug, .5qt capacity, and known for problems across a few different platforms.

When I do a drain and fill I'm only able to siphon a little over half of the gear oil out and every time it's grey with metal particles and lots of fuzz on the magnetic full plug.

I've been using Royal Purple Max gear 75w140 and was wondering if the 85w140 wold help more.

75w140= 195 @40 and 28.8 @100
85w140= 284 @40 and 26.8 @100

I was planning on sticking with the RP in an attempt to keep the make ups the same since I can't do a complete drain and fill.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
What problems are common to that tcase?



The small capacity and lifetime fill is causing the gear oil to fail and the transfer cases to grenade.
 
Yes, 85W140 would improve wear protection performance over a 75W140 in your tcase ......
as the amounts of fuzz on plug simply indicates severity in inadequacy of oil operating viscosity/MOFT .......
never mind the OEM oil grade recommnendation.
blush.gif
 
Originally Posted By: SavagePatch
In an effort to help reduce wear would moving up to 85w140 be an improvement over 75w140?

This is in a CX-9 with a supposedly lifetime fill, no drain plug, .5qt capacity, and known for problems across a few different platforms.

When I do a drain and fill I'm only able to siphon a little over half of the gear oil out and every time it's grey with metal particles and lots of fuzz on the magnetic full plug.

I've been using Royal Purple Max gear 75w140 and was wondering if the 85w140 wold help more.

75w140= 195 @40 and 28.8 @100
85w140= 284 @40 and 26.8 @100


I was planning on sticking with the RP in an attempt to keep the make ups the same since I can't do a complete drain and fill.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

No, with these numbers 85w140 is much worse than 75w140. Stay with owner manual.
 
It's a well known issue. Stick with the factory recommendation and I would change it more often.

On the plus side, you can get a new T case for about $620 -$650
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
It's a well known issue. Stick with the factory recommendation and I would change it more often.

On the plus side, you can get a new T case for about $620 -$650


I hope they have a drain plug =)
 
As a former CX9 owner, I'd stick with the 75w140. If I'd kept mine, I would have drilled and tapped a drain hole, because like you, I was only able to siphon half the oil out. Then, I'd have drained and refilled the transfer at every engine oil change. There's instructions floating around the web showing exactly where to drill. Really nice vehicle apart from the T-case issue. And the horrendous fuel consumption, but I went in knowing about that!
 
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The PTU is so close to the rear bank's catalytic converter that it overheats the oil inside and turns it into sludge in as little as 40k miles. Ford is still using the same PTU and cat con location on the 3.5l and 3.5l Ecoboost in the Taurus, Edge and Flex.

They tried to have coolant run up against the side of the PTU to mitigate the issue with little success. Yet they still won't admit there's an issue and recall this stupid design.
 
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
The PTU is so close to the rear bank's catalytic converter that it overheats the oil inside and turns it into sludge in as little as 40k miles. Ford is still using the same PTU and cat con location on the 3.5l and 3.5l Ecoboost in the Taurus, Edge and Flex.

They tried to have coolant run up against the side of the PTU to mitigate the issue with little success. Yet they still won't admit there's an issue and recall this stupid design.

Just curious, would CX9 tcase/PTU locations vis-a-vis cat con same as Taurus?
blush.gif
 
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
Check out my post on the Edge forums:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/page-13

I've done 4 D&Fs so far and the next one will be filled with Schaeffer's Heavy Duty 75W-140 they formulated for HD motorcycles.
Mainly PAO based so it can handle the heat better and it was priced less than RP or RL.


Thanks for the link! Adding a drain plug would be great but I'm not confident that I could pull it off, especially without removing the transfer case. I think I'll try the service bulletin that says to do a syphon and fill then put it in neutral and spin the front wheels three times then syphon and fill again, repeat 3x's. But would the rear wheels want to spin too? Because I use a jack and stands for the front and put the rear on rhino ramps.

Thanks for the tip about the Schaeffer's 170 Extreme Performance. It looks like the perfect fluid for this application. But where are you finding it for less than RP or RL?
 
I'm lucky that I have a small town gas station 15 miles away from me that stocks many of the Schaeffer's products and sells for good prices. I paid $15.95 for a quart of #170 a couple of months ago, but I see now that they've changed the label. I have the older label with the drag motorcycle doing a burnout.
 
So the solution here is to create a drain plug location for the t-case and to get catless downpipes
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: metroplex
So the solution here is to create a drain plug location for the t-case and to get catless downpipes
wink.gif



In a perfect world, right? Haha!
 
Getting a spare case would be an ideal opportunity to drop it off with a mechanic or machinist - install the plug - and change on your schedule ...
Being worried with that volume and PITA to change just ounces ? Wow.
 
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