Mazda Moly 0w20 or a 5w30

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: SR5
My First World Country says it's OK to run 0W20 or 5W30 or 10W30 (SN, GF-5) oil in that engine.

BTW Nice Car !! I wish I had one for family transport duties.
From a northern hemisphere Aus is up side down [ southern hemisphere] that usually requires a thicker oil. The guys from Canada are really sticklers on that point.
 
Originally Posted By: Spur
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: dave123
Absolutely no reason or facts to back it up.


Yeah ... don't let any common sense get in the way of some good facts ...
10w60 would definitely be better or maybe straight 70 weight that's what he should run.


Dave, I'm thinking that might be a little thick in the winter
cool.gif

10w-60 shears too much.
 
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: CT8
Run a 5w-30.

Absolutely no reason or facts to back it up.
Says whom?
 
Originally Posted By: Spur
Thanks for the responses, keep um coming. It has already been mentioned, but is somewhat puzzling to me.
The owners manual specs 5w30 everywhere but the US where it specs the 0w20. I want protection not cafe standards. This car needs to last way into retirement. Which happens for us in a couple years.

....then 5W30 , no 0W20.
blush.gif
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Use what Mazda calls for. Don't run 5W30 because they might in some third world country.

Betcha didn't know we get ....................for North America

Nice vehicle by the way!


USA is almost qualified and inline to for promotion to third world country status.
 
Originally Posted By: Spur
Ok, I'm an old guy and use to thicker oils. Just wondering if I should stick with the moly 0w20 or use a 5w30 in a 2.5 4 cylinder CX5. It is a new vehicle. Having trouble feeling comfortable with a 20 weight for the long haul.

50/50 city highway. About 15000 miles a year. Normal driving, not race drivers.

Any help or opinions appreciated. Thanks


The more important questions are how often do you plan to change your oil (OCI)? Are you going to use conventional or synthetic? Do you plan to change the oil yourself or take it to the dealer?

This engine was designed to use 0W20 oil and 87 octane gas. While there is a small gain in fuel economy by using 0W20 (I've seen figures of about 1-2% increase), the oil will protect your engine well. Generally 0W20 are either full synthetic or synthetic blend oils. They don't break down like conventional which means your OCI is longer. Use a good quality oil like Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, etc. and your CX-5 will last for years. You'll have others things go wrong before you have trouble with the engine.

Good luck and enjoy your ride.
 
From the looks of it I would use a 5w-30. Mazda suggests everybody else use 5w-30 except US and Canada. This is from the online owners manual.

 
My vote is if you are not driving it hard, just use the 0w20. It will provide perfectly fine levels of protection, and it will give increased fuel economy. I would personally use Mazda 0w20 designed for Skyactiv and an oem filter. Mazda designed the engine and had an oil specifically designed for the Skyactiv engine. Why would you not use an oil designed specifically to work with your car when it is about the same price as any other oil?
 
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Use what Mazda calls for. Don't run 5W30 because they might in some third world country.

Betcha didn't know we get ....................for North America

Nice vehicle by the way!


USA is almost qualified and inline to for promotion to third world country status.

USA plain bearings are made of gold ...... Yours and all other 3rd world bearings are made from copper.
shocked.gif
 
If the owners manual wants everybody in the world to use 5w-30, except for those of us in the Northern half of North America...why do you think 0w-20 protects just as well? If it were my car, I would run 5w-30.

Of course I'm the guy that runs 0w-40 in all my vehicles...there is no replacement for displacement, and there is no proxy for viscosity!
(sorry that was the best I could do to rhyme viscosity)
 
Last edited:
I understand the Idemitsu Mazda moly is good oil and has very high levels of moly. And who don't like moly. But, I also have a small understanding of film strength.

I also look at the owners manual and as shown, it says to run a 5w30 everywhere, but, the US and Canada. This is what is puzzling to me.

I plan to run a full synthetic (US defined) and for at least 7500 miles. I do plan on doing some UOAs after the breakin period. Probably M1 EP, Castrol gold or PPUP. Kind of like stuff I can get from Wally World or Costco. Will pair that with a fram xg7317. Change filter every other time.

The owners manual is what is confusing me. Lol
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Some on here claim that using premium fuel allows the engine to re-tune itself. I haven't bought into that.


I bet an engine like that would absolutely benefit from a higher grade of fuel. I've found that with most modern engines. Our MDX calls for premium and we use it, and feel and see (via Torque app on my phone) timing advance differences when using regular gas. Our Ridgeline calls for regular gas, and we use premium in it. Same deal as the MDX -- you can absolutely feel the difference in power and response with premium, and that's supported by timing advance numbers you can see in black and white on Torque. Hills that are JUST steep and long enough to cause the transmission to unlock the torque converter in high gear with regular fuel can be crossed without unlocking the torque converter with premium fuel. And that's with a relatively old design 10.5:1 V-6 engine. It's obvious that both of our V-6 engines have the range in spark advance to be able to take advantage of the greater octane, despite Honda rating one for premium and one for regular for obvious marketing reasons.

I bet a thoroughly modern 12+:1 4-cylinder could absolutely use the extra octane from premium fuel. Said another way: it's probably not advancing the timing on regular as much as it would if you were running premium. "Re-tuning" is an instantaneous process, and is really simpler, I believe, than some make it out to be. In short, the computer is always looking to advance the timing as far as it can without inducing damaging spark knock. Regular fuel just causes it to not advance it as far as it could on premium.

I'm sure there is a practical limit to the range of advance. But I bet the range it uses on regular fuel isn't it.
 
Originally Posted By: Spur
The owners manual is what is confusing me.


I would use whatever makes you feel comfortable. Most of North America is using 0W-20. Most of the rest of the world is using 5W-30. The engine will be well protected in either case. Hondas and Fords have been running on xW-20 oils for the better part of two decades now. Under strenuous conditions (small engines in Hondas, towing applications for Fords). I think that grade of oil has proven itself in applications where it's specified, but there's also no harm in using 5W-30. You know it'll be fine for the engine because it's what Mazda uses in the rest of the world.

Due to the way the fuel mileage regulations are written (and this to the best of my understanding), the automaker has to take all steps to compel owners to use the same grade of oil that they used in fuel economy and emissions testing. So they can't, for instance, go out there and "qualify" on some 0W-16 oil, longevity be darned, and then recommend owners use 10W-30. They have to recommend (and stock at dealers, etc) the oil they used during certification. I think this explains why you see the different oil recommendations in the United States owner's manuals.
 
Originally Posted By: DriveHard
From the looks of it I would use a 5w-30. Mazda suggests everybody else use 5w-30 except US and Canada. This is from the online owners manual.

And Castrol is recommended for Mexico only, at least on the right half of the page? And on the left, for the U.S. only? Don't lake Wakefield Canada see that. Boy, some of these companies really need to rewrite their oil selection pages.
 
I think the 0W-20 is fine for a normal driving grocery getter. If it were mine, I'd leave the factory fill in until the OLM triggers. After that I'd make my 1st one or two oil changes with either a 0W-20 or 5W-20 blend - I feel the blend helps the rings break-in better. Post break-in, full synthetic 0W-20 and follow the OLM.
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Use what Mazda calls for. Don't run 5W30 because they might in some third world country.

Betcha didn't know we get ....................for North America

Nice vehicle by the way!


USA is almost qualified and inline to for promotion to third world country status.

USA plain bearings are made of gold ...... Yours and all other 3rd world bearings are made from copper.
shocked.gif



Nothing to do with bearings USA is planned to be the next 3rd world country.
 
Mazda is clearing saying both 0W20 and 5W30 are acceptable oils.

I would let my environment and application be my guide. If short tripping in the frozen north then 0W20. If towing long distance in the hot south then 5W30.

Either way, you want a quality name brand full synthetic.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Use what Mazda calls for. Don't run 5W30 because they might in some third world country.

Betcha didn't know we get ....................for North America

Nice vehicle by the way!


USA is almost qualified and inline to for promotion to third world country status.

USA plain bearings are made of gold ...... Yours and all other 3rd world bearings are made from copper.
shocked.gif



Nothing to do with bearings USA is planned to be the next 3rd world country.
yes
 
High oil flow from the thinner oil will lead to better oil cooling of the engine, reducing knock and head temperatures. Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 doesn't get consumed like the high NOACK OE mazda oil. I am all for Moly, but after three changes I was ready to switch, and the M1EP fixed everything.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top