New car storage
- Thread starter JoelB
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Drive the Nissan all year. Get winters tires and have an oil undercoating like Krown sprayed annually. Wax it before the first and after the last snow.
Originally Posted By: JoelB
I live in Minnesota and we get some pretty serious winters which are always accompanied by some heavy road salt use. This makes me lean towards having a "winter beater" and storing my new car for about 6 months a year.
My concern is that while in storage for 6 months the oil will all drain back into the pan leaving little to no film on crucial engine components. So that first start after storing for so long will potentially damage the engine. I know in older cars you could prime the oil pump with a homemade tool using a modified distributor. But as far as i know this isn't possible on modern engines.
Are these concerns foolish? I'm still and oil noob at this point, but I'm trying to soak up some knowledge from the forums. The car is a 2016 Nissan versa and ill probable be running 5w-30 mobil 1 EP at the time of storage.
We're talking one start a year, right? Nothing to worry about, but if it is concerning then a pre-oiler would fill the bill. You could also do your yearly oil change just before starting, which would put at least some oil on the high side of the engine.
I live in Minnesota and we get some pretty serious winters which are always accompanied by some heavy road salt use. This makes me lean towards having a "winter beater" and storing my new car for about 6 months a year.
My concern is that while in storage for 6 months the oil will all drain back into the pan leaving little to no film on crucial engine components. So that first start after storing for so long will potentially damage the engine. I know in older cars you could prime the oil pump with a homemade tool using a modified distributor. But as far as i know this isn't possible on modern engines.
Are these concerns foolish? I'm still and oil noob at this point, but I'm trying to soak up some knowledge from the forums. The car is a 2016 Nissan versa and ill probable be running 5w-30 mobil 1 EP at the time of storage.
We're talking one start a year, right? Nothing to worry about, but if it is concerning then a pre-oiler would fill the bill. You could also do your yearly oil change just before starting, which would put at least some oil on the high side of the engine.
Originally Posted By: JoelB
Thanks for your replies everyone. I do tend to overthink things but i wanted to get the opinions of people who deal with oil more in depth than i do.
I realize the versa isn't a show car but being that i still have student loans to pay and at 26 I'm still fairly new into my career path it's what i could afford without a loan. I like to baby my cars weather it's a 20 yer old buick or a brand new nissan.
I'll most likely end up driving it and just keeping it washed whenever it's warm enough.
From what I understand, in the winter and covered in salt, it will rust faster inside a nice warm garage than outside where it is colder.
Thanks for your replies everyone. I do tend to overthink things but i wanted to get the opinions of people who deal with oil more in depth than i do.
I realize the versa isn't a show car but being that i still have student loans to pay and at 26 I'm still fairly new into my career path it's what i could afford without a loan. I like to baby my cars weather it's a 20 yer old buick or a brand new nissan.
I'll most likely end up driving it and just keeping it washed whenever it's warm enough.
From what I understand, in the winter and covered in salt, it will rust faster inside a nice warm garage than outside where it is colder.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Just get it under coated and drive it year round. The cost of a winter beater, other maintenance, repairs, insurance, and registration will amount to much more than what you will save by having 2 cars. Now if this were a $30k-$35k car I could see a winter beater working well, but if you figure in that these are $10k cars in the first place, then the value of the car with rust isn't that much lower.
Keep it washed and rust proofed and you will be fine.
Keep it washed and rust proofed and you will be fine.
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
If you're worried about rust get one of the oil-based undercoatings done and drive it all year. That's what I'd do.
^^ this.
If you're worried about rust get one of the oil-based undercoatings done and drive it all year. That's what I'd do.
^^ this.
Originally Posted By: rsylvstr
... From what I understand, in the winter and covered in salt, it will rust faster inside a nice warm garage than outside where it is colder.
One source I read back in the 1990's stated that corrosion rates for the body of your car were maximized in the 30-40 def F range. Higher or lower than that and the reaction slows down. My garage is in that exact range from Dec-March.
... From what I understand, in the winter and covered in salt, it will rust faster inside a nice warm garage than outside where it is colder.
One source I read back in the 1990's stated that corrosion rates for the body of your car were maximized in the 30-40 def F range. Higher or lower than that and the reaction slows down. My garage is in that exact range from Dec-March.
Originally Posted By: JoelB
Thanks for your replies everyone. I do tend to overthink things but i wanted to get the opinions of people who deal with oil more in depth than i do.
I realize the versa isn't a show car but being that i still have student loans to pay and at 26 I'm still fairly new into my career path it's what i could afford without a loan. I like to baby my cars weather it's a 20 yer old buick or a brand new nissan.
I'll most likely end up driving it and just keeping it washed whenever it's warm enough.
If you had to have a new car - I think in your situation, the Versa was the best choice you could have made. The cheapest, near base model car is the one that will depreciate the least. It is impossible for the Versa to depreciate as much as a $40000 Lexus will.
Cheap new car and run into the ground is a good way to look at it
Thanks for your replies everyone. I do tend to overthink things but i wanted to get the opinions of people who deal with oil more in depth than i do.
I realize the versa isn't a show car but being that i still have student loans to pay and at 26 I'm still fairly new into my career path it's what i could afford without a loan. I like to baby my cars weather it's a 20 yer old buick or a brand new nissan.
I'll most likely end up driving it and just keeping it washed whenever it's warm enough.
If you had to have a new car - I think in your situation, the Versa was the best choice you could have made. The cheapest, near base model car is the one that will depreciate the least. It is impossible for the Versa to depreciate as much as a $40000 Lexus will.
Cheap new car and run into the ground is a good way to look at it
On that note, it's actually a decent little car for $14k. I got the SV model and it has all the options i would ever need. Nissan has done a good job making a cheap car feel higher quality and quiet.
Dumping the FF at 1500 miles with a free oil change at the dealer. Then I'll go synthetic around 4,000 miles i think. Hopefully keep this one a long time.
Dumping the FF at 1500 miles with a free oil change at the dealer. Then I'll go synthetic around 4,000 miles i think. Hopefully keep this one a long time.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: JoelB
Anyone have an opinion about Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30?
Use what the manufacturer says to use while under warranty.
Anyone have an opinion about Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30?
Use what the manufacturer says to use while under warranty.
Patman
Staff member
I know I'm going way off topic here, but I think rust proofing is a waste of money on cars built in the last 10-15 years. How many rusted out cars do you see that were built in the past couple of decades? Right out of the factory most new cars already have better preparation so that they are more resistant to rust (galvanized steel or the use of a lot more plastic panels) I haven't done any kind of rustproofing on my Civic in the 5 years I've owned it (and I don't think the original owner did either) and it shows no signs of rust. If you keep a car for 10-15 years and you spend over $100 per year getting it Rust Checked, that's a huge amount of money! And if you're the type to trade your cars more frequently, then you definitely aren't getting any return on your investment. I personally think you're better off spending that money on frequent car washes in the winter to remove the salt before it does too much damage (that being said, I don't even bother washing my Civic in the winter and it hasn't hurt it)
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Maybe you live in a good area. Plenty of new cars rust out, Dodge trucks and Mazdas. Supton on here had a 2004 Jetta that was a total rust bucket.
Originally Posted By: Patman
I know I'm going way off topic here, but I think rust proofing is a waste of money on cars built in the last 10-15 years. How many rusted out cars do you see that were built in the past couple of decades? Right out of the factory most new cars already have better preparation so that they are more resistant to rust (galvanized steel or the use of a lot more plastic panels) I haven't done any kind of rustproofing on my Civic in the 5 years I've owned it (and I don't think the original owner did either) and it shows no signs of rust. If you keep a car for 10-15 years and you spend over $100 per year getting it Rust Checked, that's a huge amount of money! And if you're the type to trade your cars more frequently, then you definitely aren't getting any return on your investment. I personally think you're better off spending that money on frequent car washes in the winter to remove the salt before it does too much damage (that being said, I don't even bother washing my Civic in the winter and it hasn't hurt it)
Here in NY the 2010 cars are starting to rust. Toyota, Ford, Dodge, Honda ... doesn't matter. They are getting bubbly wheel wells and the bolts holding on all of the suspension components start to rust.
I know I'm going way off topic here, but I think rust proofing is a waste of money on cars built in the last 10-15 years. How many rusted out cars do you see that were built in the past couple of decades? Right out of the factory most new cars already have better preparation so that they are more resistant to rust (galvanized steel or the use of a lot more plastic panels) I haven't done any kind of rustproofing on my Civic in the 5 years I've owned it (and I don't think the original owner did either) and it shows no signs of rust. If you keep a car for 10-15 years and you spend over $100 per year getting it Rust Checked, that's a huge amount of money! And if you're the type to trade your cars more frequently, then you definitely aren't getting any return on your investment. I personally think you're better off spending that money on frequent car washes in the winter to remove the salt before it does too much damage (that being said, I don't even bother washing my Civic in the winter and it hasn't hurt it)
Here in NY the 2010 cars are starting to rust. Toyota, Ford, Dodge, Honda ... doesn't matter. They are getting bubbly wheel wells and the bolts holding on all of the suspension components start to rust.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: Patman
I know I'm going way off topic here, but I think rust proofing is a waste of money on cars built in the last 10-15 years. How many rusted out cars do you see that were built in the past couple of decades? Right out of the factory most new cars already have better preparation so that they are more resistant to rust (galvanized steel or the use of a lot more plastic panels) I haven't done any kind of rustproofing on my Civic in the 5 years I've owned it (and I don't think the original owner did either) and it shows no signs of rust. If you keep a car for 10-15 years and you spend over $100 per year getting it Rust Checked, that's a huge amount of money! And if you're the type to trade your cars more frequently, then you definitely aren't getting any return on your investment. I personally think you're better off spending that money on frequent car washes in the winter to remove the salt before it does too much damage (that being said, I don't even bother washing my Civic in the winter and it hasn't hurt it)
Here in NY the 2010 cars are starting to rust. Toyota, Ford, Dodge, Honda ... doesn't matter. They are getting bubbly wheel wells and the bolts holding on all of the suspension components start to rust.
True. 40+ years of car ownership in NY taught me that.
Originally Posted By: Patman
I know I'm going way off topic here, but I think rust proofing is a waste of money on cars built in the last 10-15 years. How many rusted out cars do you see that were built in the past couple of decades? Right out of the factory most new cars already have better preparation so that they are more resistant to rust (galvanized steel or the use of a lot more plastic panels) I haven't done any kind of rustproofing on my Civic in the 5 years I've owned it (and I don't think the original owner did either) and it shows no signs of rust. If you keep a car for 10-15 years and you spend over $100 per year getting it Rust Checked, that's a huge amount of money! And if you're the type to trade your cars more frequently, then you definitely aren't getting any return on your investment. I personally think you're better off spending that money on frequent car washes in the winter to remove the salt before it does too much damage (that being said, I don't even bother washing my Civic in the winter and it hasn't hurt it)
Here in NY the 2010 cars are starting to rust. Toyota, Ford, Dodge, Honda ... doesn't matter. They are getting bubbly wheel wells and the bolts holding on all of the suspension components start to rust.
True. 40+ years of car ownership in NY taught me that.
Originally Posted By: JoelB
Anyone have an opinion about Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30?
I read this thread because I am in a similar situation with a different set of cars and was interested in the replies.
I have a 2014 Chevy SS that doesn't move much and only during the summer months. The rest of the time, it will sit in my garage. My winter car that my wife jokingly calls my all season tires is a 2015 Ford Focus-ST that will be driven all year long.
The SS is running Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE currently and the Focus will be next OCI. It's Dexos certified, has Ford's certification and I picked it up for between $1 and $3 per quart last fall from Auto zone. I have 60+ quarts of it in the stash. The SS seems to like it well enough meaning it's not noisy and the oil temps are about what they were with regular Mobil 1. It gets bad fuel economy and I don't at all care. I will be doing a UOA on the current fill, but that will be probably sometime next year. UOA's I've found for M1 AFE 0W-30 have all looked good.
So the OP's question is still interesting to me. My SS will not move 6 months out of the year and I am curious what, if anything other than keeping the battery charged, should I do to it? The ST will be getting plenty of hard use.
Anyone have an opinion about Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30?
I read this thread because I am in a similar situation with a different set of cars and was interested in the replies.
I have a 2014 Chevy SS that doesn't move much and only during the summer months. The rest of the time, it will sit in my garage. My winter car that my wife jokingly calls my all season tires is a 2015 Ford Focus-ST that will be driven all year long.
The SS is running Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE currently and the Focus will be next OCI. It's Dexos certified, has Ford's certification and I picked it up for between $1 and $3 per quart last fall from Auto zone. I have 60+ quarts of it in the stash. The SS seems to like it well enough meaning it's not noisy and the oil temps are about what they were with regular Mobil 1. It gets bad fuel economy and I don't at all care. I will be doing a UOA on the current fill, but that will be probably sometime next year. UOA's I've found for M1 AFE 0W-30 have all looked good.
So the OP's question is still interesting to me. My SS will not move 6 months out of the year and I am curious what, if anything other than keeping the battery charged, should I do to it? The ST will be getting plenty of hard use.
Originally Posted By: JoelB
I live in Minnesota and we get some pretty serious winters which are always accompanied by some heavy road salt use. This makes me lean towards having a "winter beater" and storing my new car for about 6 months a year.
If I can drive my G37 year round, you can do the same with a Versa.
Realistically, though, don't worry about the oil draining down. I've never taken apart an engine and found it "oil free" anywhere I've touched. If it were me, I'd make sure it had fresh oil, if at all feasible, when going into storage, and that's about all I could do to address any oil related matters.
I live in Minnesota and we get some pretty serious winters which are always accompanied by some heavy road salt use. This makes me lean towards having a "winter beater" and storing my new car for about 6 months a year.
If I can drive my G37 year round, you can do the same with a Versa.
I park my Mustang from about November to about March with nothing special done to it as far as the oil is concerned. I do put a battery tender on it but that is it.
Wayne
Wayne
Dude it's a disposable Versa. If it was Godzilla you would have a legit thread here.
Why spend half your driving time in a [censored] winter-beater with a busted AM Radio and only the right-rear window rolls down when your "good" car is one of the cheapest new cars sold in America.
You're young and paid cash for a 2016! Take moderate care of it (better than the average person, worse than the average BITOGer). Don't waste your money on a winter beater and storage for your car that is not worthy of being stored for a when you're already driving the cheapest new car in America.
Why spend half your driving time in a [censored] winter-beater with a busted AM Radio and only the right-rear window rolls down when your "good" car is one of the cheapest new cars sold in America.
You're young and paid cash for a 2016! Take moderate care of it (better than the average person, worse than the average BITOGer). Don't waste your money on a winter beater and storage for your car that is not worthy of being stored for a when you're already driving the cheapest new car in America.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Maybe you live in a good area. Plenty of new cars rust out, Dodge trucks and Mazdas. Supton on here had a 2004 Jetta that was a total rust bucket.
They dump TONS of salt on the roads here, but even still my Civic and many other 10 year old cars show no rust issues
Maybe you live in a good area. Plenty of new cars rust out, Dodge trucks and Mazdas. Supton on here had a 2004 Jetta that was a total rust bucket.
They dump TONS of salt on the roads here, but even still my Civic and many other 10 year old cars show no rust issues
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