My 2005 Chevy Avalanche 1500 2 wheel drive with 182,000 miles. 4L60e developed a mild shudder at low speeds in all but 1st gear. It could be felt through the steering wheel and accelerator pedal. I assumed it was the transmission and took it to a nearby transmission shop. The owner checked for codes and found none. Test drove it and said he didn't think the transmission was at fault. Went back to his shop and put it on the lift. As soon as he looked under the truck he saw that the front u joint had rusted and was close to coming apart with a lot of play in the joint. The OEM non serviceable u joints were replaced with NAPA greasable u joints and for less than $100, it's smooth as silk again. It's nice in this day and time to find an honest mechanic. If I had it to do over again, I would have replaced the u joints years ago with greasable joints. For you guys with a lot of miles on your vehicles, it might pay to replace your non serviceable u joints as part of a PM. I will from now on.
Transmission shudder/and an honest mechanic
- Thread starter gman2304
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There's an honest mechanic. Good on you for finding him.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Rust in North Carolina?
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Thanks for sharing. We need more stories like this. I'm sure they're out there, its just that the issues always get more 'air time'.
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Rust in North Carolina?
the west is rather mountainous.
Pretty good bit of snow and bad weather during the winter months up in the hills. Use to drive a beer/wine truck, and I was the lucky one(not) that got to deliver to Boone, NC where Appalachian State University is located. Seemed like they kept slag on the road all the time during the winter months, but there was a lot of bad weather that year. Hated that run because of all the kegs that had to be delivered.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Rust in North Carolina?
the west is rather mountainous.
Pretty good bit of snow and bad weather during the winter months up in the hills. Use to drive a beer/wine truck, and I was the lucky one(not) that got to deliver to Boone, NC where Appalachian State University is located. Seemed like they kept slag on the road all the time during the winter months, but there was a lot of bad weather that year. Hated that run because of all the kegs that had to be delivered.
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: wemay
Thanks for sharing. We need more stories like this. I'm sure they're out there, its just that the issues always get more 'air time'.
Luckily, I have a mechanic I trust as well.
We try out different formulations in some his mules.
Thanks for sharing. We need more stories like this. I'm sure they're out there, its just that the issues always get more 'air time'.
Luckily, I have a mechanic I trust as well.
We try out different formulations in some his mules.
Actually the non-greasable u-joints are better.
There's a "shaft shop" near me and I've brought a few driveshafts there. They change the U-joints and balance it on a really cool lathe setup.
It never fails to improve ride A ==> CENSORED
Also, I played with a trans like yours in a 2001 Camaro and the OM said to change the filter (and thus, half the fluid, I suppose) every 30,000 miles. Everyone says they're GREAT units.
It never fails to improve ride A ==> CENSORED
Also, I played with a trans like yours in a 2001 Camaro and the OM said to change the filter (and thus, half the fluid, I suppose) every 30,000 miles. Everyone says they're GREAT units.
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Originally Posted By: Silverado12
Actually the non-greasable u-joints are better.
Agree. I put a Dana Spicer sealed unit in my car not too long ago. IMO the greasable ones just end up getting contamination inside.
Actually the non-greasable u-joints are better.
Agree. I put a Dana Spicer sealed unit in my car not too long ago. IMO the greasable ones just end up getting contamination inside.
Originally Posted By: gman2304
'Actually the non-greasable u-joints are better'.
I did not know that. The original sealed ones lasted for 182,000 miles, so they had to be good.
I would take a greasable one over sealed. If you grease it periodically, it likely will outlast the car. I never had to change a greasable joint.I go with Niapco.
'Actually the non-greasable u-joints are better'.
I did not know that. The original sealed ones lasted for 182,000 miles, so they had to be good.
I would take a greasable one over sealed. If you grease it periodically, it likely will outlast the car. I never had to change a greasable joint.I go with Niapco.
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