kohler 17hp . changed oil , now will not run

[chad8]

I have a 2005 Craftsman lt2000 with a 17hp kohler. I changed oil using 10w30 mower oil and a fram 3614 instead of a kohler filter. Specs are identical. Fired the mower up and it wasn't running right.
It would not go above high idle and when I put it in gear (Hydro) it ran 20 feet and quit.
Now it will not start and only pops through the carburetor.
I pulled the flywheel and come to find out it sheared the woodruff key.
Did I cause this or was this incidental to my oil change?
Its a pressure fed system.
Of course its Sunday and all the local shops are closed.
I will pick up a key tomorrow and see if i have any additional damage.
I think while its apart a valve adjustment is in order too.
Any thought son this?

 

[MolaKule]

Quote:
I pulled the flywheel and come to find out it sheared the woodruff key. Did I cause this or was this incidental to my oil change?

Its a pressure fed system.


Nope, the woodruff key was worn and ready to shear at the next loading.

 

[oilpsi2high]

Coincidence.

 

[CT8]

Is there a low oil cut off switch? Did you add enough oil?

 

[The motor guy]

Supposedly kohlers have [censored] flywheel keys that shear easily.

 

[chad8]

Yes , there was enough oil . Possibly even an ounce or 2 extra.
No cut off switch that I know of.
My initial thought was that the OCOD did not let oil in and overfilled the engine causing extra pressure. That seems way off base the more I thought about it.
I also found out that Kohler CV motors are hydraulic lifters and do not require valve adjustments. YES !!
so its not like a Briggs where a valve adjustment can cause hard starting and all sorts of other issues.
I like this single cylinder design so much better than my 19.5 briggs.
That one blew a rod last fall.
This one is smoother and burns half the fuel with the same power at the blades.

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

Of course, it has to be the OCOD! What else could it be?

It was probably on the edge, one little bump on starting and it's done. Still, it's one of those little things that make you go, Hmmmm........

 

[Merkava_4]

Flywheel keys aren't supposed to shear unless the blade hits something. I'm surprised nobody asked the OP what the blade hit.

 

[chad8]

The blades were not running and I have not hit anything.
This was a cold start after the old oil drained all day and was replaced
The mower was fine on the last cut a week ago.
I parked it in its usual spot and wanted to change the oil before I ran it again.

 

[Warstud]

If you tipped it to drain the oil....that can happen. Let it sit and try it later.

 

[chad8]

It was not tipped at all. I used a steel dog dish to catch the oil and emptied it into my 10 quart oil drain pan.

 

[Vikas]

Wouldn't you change the oil *after* getting it warm/hot i.e. running the engine first?

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: Warstud
If you tipped it to drain the oil....that can happen. Let it sit and try it later.


Do people even read the original post before commenting anymore? No one tips a RIDING LAWN MOWER over to change the oil.

 

[chad8]

In my car i would usually warm it up to change the oil for a 20 minute drain. In this case , the drain is on the side at the bottom of the sump. I had planned on letting it drain all day , so what was the difference? The oil would cool soon and would still drip out.
It was a 90 degree day . I'm sure it got plenty warm by itself.
I will say that the filter , even after it drained in the tub all day, was still very heavy.
I just bought the mower in January. Whoever had it probably changed the oil because it looked clean , but had left the filter on a long time. I had to use a filter wrench to take it off and it still did not come off easy.

 

[itguy08]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Flywheel keys aren't supposed to shear unless the blade hits something. I'm surprised nobody asked the OP what the blade hit.


Not necessarily. I just replaced the flywheel in my 10 year old Homelite Leaf Blower because of a sheared flywheel key (it's integral to the flywheel). Never hit anything with it but it sheared anyway. Could have been a backfire or something but it runs great now.

 

[chad8]

This morning I put the new flywheel key in. I bought a generic one from Menards that was 1/8 inch longer. They are the only local big box hardware that sells them individually.
I had to shave it down a touch , but it fit great when i was done.
I also degreased the whole motor, sanded all the magnets, cleaned the air filter, and removed any debris I saw.
The flywheel bolt was kinda loose when i took it off so I torqued it on to specs.
The mower fired up instantly and it runs better than ever.
It idles down lower , runs smoother, and got rid of a slight occasional miss.
Just got lucky I guess and thank goodness for the internet.
Yes , flywheel keys shear for no apparent reason.

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

Originally Posted By: chad8
This morning I put the new flywheel key in.
The flywheel bolt was kinda loose when i took it off so I torqued it on to specs.

That's what did it. A single cylinder motor hits the flywheel, (through the key), with a torque pulse every other revolution. That's the reason for torquing the bolt. The shaft taper carries the torque if it is tight, if not, the key goes, sooner or later. Good move torquing it.

 

[chad8]

I had to try it. sheared key

 

[funflyer]

Woodruff keys were something that I collected from the wrecking yards every time I went there. If there was an engine missing the balancer or timing chain the keys were mine. Keys from the old cars are better than what's available today. I have a collection in all sizes that will last me a lifetime.

 

[chad8]

Menards was the only big box store that had a good stock of individual keys and open on Sunday.
The key was 1/8th inch longer so i shaved a bit with a metabo.
Fit was perfect using my broken key traced on paper as a template.
84 cent fix and I have mowed the grass twice since fixing it.
The mower runs better than ever.
Also, the fresh oil and a fram 3614 works just fine.