Nice article, but a bunch of mistakes (its JASO, not JASCO...). And some real dubious generalizations like synthetic (whatever that is...) has better heat transfer than Grp III ... And then goes on to explain why Castor Oil is better... There may not be a whole lot of difference in the base oils in modern 2-stroke lubes. The add-paks are the biggest difference. These oils are generally classified as 2-T lubricants, instead of TWC3.
Since I'm involved with a forestry group that likes their Hot Saws (similar to race saws), we regularly run small air cooled 2-strokes at 12~14,000 RPM under full load. That is a great test for oils. Saw motors die quick if not lubed well.
You can PM me with a real outside e-mail address and I can send what I have on 2-stroke oils and their certifications. Both the Europeans and the Japanese have very high standards for air-cooled 2-stroke oils since they have fleets of 2-stroke scooters, motorcycles, and even some cars running on this stuff.
Bottom line API-TC and JASO FC or FD rated oils are what you want for modern 2-stroke air cooled motors. Anything less is a ticking time bomb. JASO FD rated oils tend to be pricey. But the lube very well.
For run of the mill air-cooled stroke motors, Motul 710 is a very good oil. For race motors, Motul 800 is very good.
Valvoline used to make very good 2-T oils. But I have not seen them around in a while ...
And the real bottom line - no motor ever died from too much oil. Too lean - sure, a million of them.
I run my stuff between 32:1 and 40:1 depending on age of equipment. I get years of service w/o a piston ring sticking. Good oil and plenty of it will always get you through
