Bogus Coolant Test! - did Pat Goss make a mistake?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 19, 2016
Messages
725
Location
Canada
Hi All

I was viewing Pat Goss videos on YouTube and found some claims that looked a little odd.

Also come across a PDF called "Bogus Coolant Test - Pat Goss Blows It!" I tried the DMM
test with engine coolant and found it's true, this test responds to coolant mix ratios
and does not tell if the coolant is "OK".

I mixed up small test batches of coolant 30/70, 50/50, 60/40 all new coolant and got
totally different readings! Voltage goes down with concentration.

Any inputs guys?

I wonder who feeds these ideas to Pat? Looks like no one is fact checking.

You Tube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0eZ8H2HVw0

"Bogus Coolant Test - Pat Goss Blows It!"

Link to PDF with Pics: https://app.box.com/s/mc3kaetdmj38ebzomyscxe9wt8rvotdg

It's always good if we can catch-out a bad idea!
 
With different levels of electrolytes the voltage will change obviously, more electrolytes more voltage, till saturation is obtained.
Ill have to see the video to see what he means.
 
Voltage across the coolant system

This link suggests a voltage range of 0.2v to 0.7v DC. In the OP's video Goss may be using only a 50/50 mix in which case there is no variation in concentration. Figure the majority of car owners are running (or think they are running) a 50/50 mix. And the distilled water in that mix should have minimal ions other than H+ and OH-.

I checked my coolant voltage on 4 yr old DexCool last week and got something around 0.55-0.80 (variation from warm to cold coolant temp). Thing is, the voltage marches on down to zero as you leave the probe in the coolant. So do you only take the very first reading or wait? After checking voltage following my coolant change I ended up with a reading of 0.15v DC on the initial touch. It was down to 0.08v in under a minute. The 4 yr coolant that came out (5,000 miles on it) had nearly the same orange tint as the new stuff. There was no sediment, floaters, or opacity of any sort...and no "DexCool sludge."

I remember doing this same test on 13 year old DexCool back in 2012 and recall a voltage reading about 1.0 v DC. But, it took would drop towards 0 as you waited. Goss mentions 2,000 rpm which I take to mean on a warm engine. Never heard before that the car had to be running. All I've figured out from my testing is that a higher starting voltage seems related to a more aged coolant.
 
Originally Posted By: JC1
He probably did make a mistake. I take his advice with a grain of salt.



He is terrible now a days. I used to enjoy him back in the day but now a days he seems uninformed.
 
Last year's Bitog post on this subject

I think that Goss' video has merit. There are a number of them out there exactly like this one. No idea who copied from the who. If you have stray voltage higher than say 0.3 to 0.4v in your coolant system, you have current flowing, no matter what your coolant concentration is...though typically it should be 50-65% anti-freeze.

AC Delco's guide for spent coolant

Electrolysis is the presence of high current circulating through the coolant. When coolant inhibitors are depleted, this level is usually higher than what is found in a normal system. Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system before and after the system has been repaired to provide a basis for additional repair. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that stray current is finding its way into the coolant.

Electrolysis is an intermittent condition that often occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized, such as a poorly grounded cooling fan or other accessory. It can be checked by watching the voltmeter and turning on and off various accessories or by engaging the starter motor.
 
He's phoning it in these days. That program is so far out of date it's a joke. Nail some old 2X4s together, throw some kid's wagon wheels on it and they'd love it.
 
Even if there is some voltage, it's the coolant and the metal probes of the meter, you can duplicate it in a glass cup!

When you switch the DMM to DC amps and go to low range, there's like only a couple of Microamps!

On the cars I checked even when running, no current was higher then that. So the test is a dud or a hold-over from way older cars that could have had corrosion problems due to "coolant voltage".

To cause any real damage due to 'voltage', you'd need a steady 5 milliamps (.005 A) or more 24 hours a day for 10 yrs or more!

AC Delco as well as other manufacturers love scaring customers with problems that don't exist anymore!

Cheers!
 
I can't help but think the type of electrode would have a lot to do with that measurement. In a previous life I did conductivity measurements on certain things and electrode geometry had everything to do with the measurements you obtained.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top