whoever you think this is, I just wanted to know if this car was worth buying, or if it really could go up to 300k, as the current owner claimed, or are chryslers just so bad that even if you meticulously care for them, they fall apart? i've never driven a chrysler before and heard bad things about them, but seriously, how bad can they be, if I thought it drove really well when I test drove it? and the a/c was nice and cold and it has luxury features that didn't go bad, like outside temp, mpg, dual zone climate control, a compass, and more.
2001 Chrysler Concorde selling for cheap.
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Originally Posted By: chryslerconcorde
http://www.edmunds.com/chrysler/concorde/2001/consumer-reviews/
Bashing certain posters is a cottage industry here. Ignore the bullies.
Bashing Chrysler products is another cottage industry here. Mostly by guys who have never owned one.
That model with the 2.7 engine was problematic. Given what you have reported, it could go 300k with lots of repairs, but I would not bet $1000 on it. 40k-50k with some repairs. Like I said above, $400-$500. You will need tires, likely brakes & struts. The repairs for 50k miles will run $600-$700 for parts alone. Add labor and it will be well over $1500.
I'm a Chrysler guy. That's all I own. I buy cars, mostly minivans cheep, fix them up and drive them until the transmission fails then part them out and junk the leftovers.
In February I bought a 2006 Chrysler Town & Country for my son for $1000. It had 188k on it. We drove it for 3000 miles, decided it was a keeper and I fixed it up. I spent $700 for parts, did all the work myself, except for the front wheel alignment. It runs great. I expect it to last for 40-50k miles. We will keep it until the transmission fails, then junk it.
http://www.edmunds.com/chrysler/concorde/2001/consumer-reviews/
Bashing certain posters is a cottage industry here. Ignore the bullies.
Bashing Chrysler products is another cottage industry here. Mostly by guys who have never owned one.
That model with the 2.7 engine was problematic. Given what you have reported, it could go 300k with lots of repairs, but I would not bet $1000 on it. 40k-50k with some repairs. Like I said above, $400-$500. You will need tires, likely brakes & struts. The repairs for 50k miles will run $600-$700 for parts alone. Add labor and it will be well over $1500.
I'm a Chrysler guy. That's all I own. I buy cars, mostly minivans cheep, fix them up and drive them until the transmission fails then part them out and junk the leftovers.
In February I bought a 2006 Chrysler Town & Country for my son for $1000. It had 188k on it. We drove it for 3000 miles, decided it was a keeper and I fixed it up. I spent $700 for parts, did all the work myself, except for the front wheel alignment. It runs great. I expect it to last for 40-50k miles. We will keep it until the transmission fails, then junk it.
You want a decent domestic with 200k miles that will last a while longer? Buy a fullsize GM (Buick Park Ave/Lesabre, Olds 88, Pontiac Bonneville) with a 3800 V6. Every one I have had or my family had went well beyond. We just junked our 89 Buick last year. Pops had about 330k on it and it was still going...just the body rotted out.
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Step 1: Buy Chrysler Concorde.
Step 2: Get a shop to install Monroe Quick-Struts because they provide a "value" to the customer.
Step 3: Put a rag in the gasoline fill neck and light it on fire.
Step 2: Get a shop to install Monroe Quick-Struts because they provide a "value" to the customer.
Step 3: Put a rag in the gasoline fill neck and light it on fire.
Consider that if you can't get proof that the timing belt and water pump have been changed within the last 100k miles or 7 years, you've got a $600 +/- expense to replace those right off the bat, else you risk the belt breaking and bending valves (interference engine).
I'm the owner of two 2nd gen. Concordes. Actually currently own only one now since junking the 3.2 about 2 years ago when the timing belt broke 500 miles shy of the belt change interval. Ironically took the 2.7 engine, which most people consider problematic, with 270k miles on it and put it into the other body and scrapped the 3.2 engine and 2.7 body. The 2.7 engine/3.2 body is now my daily driver - runs like a top.
Here's the bottom line advice coming from someone who has religiously hung out on three different LH car forum sites for 16 years: Besides the risk of damage if your timing belt breaks thru neglect or early breakage, *the* main killer of the 3.2/3.5 engine (same engine with different bores) is the lower end bearings. Seen first-hand reports on the forums oodles of them scrapped for that right around 200k miles for that very reason. It's claimed by some experts to be due to the bearings being too large a diameter combined with too high a red-line - perhaps too high a linear speed for good lubrication (my contribution to the theory).
Perhaps not that much more risk than with most 15+ year-old cars, but just be aware of the risks. So if you get it, replace the timing belt and water pump, and keep the rpm's down, and there are still no guarantees.
Oh - one more downer: One very big consternation among current owner-enthusiasts on the LH forums, based on many failures, is that it appears that *all* replacement water pumps currently available - both aftermarket *and* OEM from the dealers - are absolute junk - almost guaranteed to fail prematurely. Considering that the water pump is timing belt-driven and that the engine is interference, that would be a show-stopper for me in purchasing an LH car with the 3.2/3.5 today.
I'm the owner of two 2nd gen. Concordes. Actually currently own only one now since junking the 3.2 about 2 years ago when the timing belt broke 500 miles shy of the belt change interval. Ironically took the 2.7 engine, which most people consider problematic, with 270k miles on it and put it into the other body and scrapped the 3.2 engine and 2.7 body. The 2.7 engine/3.2 body is now my daily driver - runs like a top.
Here's the bottom line advice coming from someone who has religiously hung out on three different LH car forum sites for 16 years: Besides the risk of damage if your timing belt breaks thru neglect or early breakage, *the* main killer of the 3.2/3.5 engine (same engine with different bores) is the lower end bearings. Seen first-hand reports on the forums oodles of them scrapped for that right around 200k miles for that very reason. It's claimed by some experts to be due to the bearings being too large a diameter combined with too high a red-line - perhaps too high a linear speed for good lubrication (my contribution to the theory).
Perhaps not that much more risk than with most 15+ year-old cars, but just be aware of the risks. So if you get it, replace the timing belt and water pump, and keep the rpm's down, and there are still no guarantees.
Oh - one more downer: One very big consternation among current owner-enthusiasts on the LH forums, based on many failures, is that it appears that *all* replacement water pumps currently available - both aftermarket *and* OEM from the dealers - are absolute junk - almost guaranteed to fail prematurely. Considering that the water pump is timing belt-driven and that the engine is interference, that would be a show-stopper for me in purchasing an LH car with the 3.2/3.5 today.
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Originally Posted By: Robenstein
You want a decent domestic with 200k miles that will last a while longer? Buy a fullsize GM (Buick Park Ave/Lesabre, Olds 88, Pontiac Bonneville) with a 3800 V6. Every one I have had or my family had went well beyond. We just junked our 89 Buick last year. Pops had about 330k on it and it was still going...just the body rotted out.
^^This. Get a GM 3800 powered car if you want a domestic that will live forever. I'm always on the hunt for a clean low mileage 86-91 3800 Oldsmobile 88 or 98.
You want a decent domestic with 200k miles that will last a while longer? Buy a fullsize GM (Buick Park Ave/Lesabre, Olds 88, Pontiac Bonneville) with a 3800 V6. Every one I have had or my family had went well beyond. We just junked our 89 Buick last year. Pops had about 330k on it and it was still going...just the body rotted out.
^^This. Get a GM 3800 powered car if you want a domestic that will live forever. I'm always on the hunt for a clean low mileage 86-91 3800 Oldsmobile 88 or 98.
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Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
Step 1: Buy Chrysler Concorde.
Step 2: Get a shop to install Monroe Quick-Struts because they provide a "value" to the customer.
Step 3: Put a rag in the gasoline fill neck and light it on fire.
Haha a rolling Molotov cocktail!!
Step 1: Buy Chrysler Concorde.
Step 2: Get a shop to install Monroe Quick-Struts because they provide a "value" to the customer.
Step 3: Put a rag in the gasoline fill neck and light it on fire.
Haha a rolling Molotov cocktail!!
(wanted to edit again, but can't now - the below quote contains the edits I wanted to do)
Originally Posted By: Peva
Consider that if you can't get proof that the timing belt and water pump have been changed within the last 100k miles or 7 years, you've got a $600 +/- expense to replace those right off the bat, else you risk the belt breaking and bending valves (interference engine).
I'm the owner of two 2nd gen. Concordes. Actually currently own only one now since junking the 3.2 about 2 years ago when the timing belt broke 500 miles shy of the belt change interval. Ironically took the 2.7 engine, which most people consider problematic, with 270k miles on it and put it into the other body and scrapped the 3.2 engine and 2.7 body. The 2.7 engine/3.2 body is now my daily driver - runs like a top.
Here's the bottom line advice coming from someone who has religiously hung out on three different LH car forum sites for 16 years: Besides the risk of damage if your timing belt breaks thru neglect or early breakage, *the* main killer of the 3.2/3.5 engine (same engine with different bores) is the lower end bearings. Seen first-hand reports on the forums of oodles of them scrapped right around 200k miles for that very reason. It's claimed by some experts to be due to the bearings being too large a diameter combined with too high a red-line - perhaps too high a linear speed/shear rate for good lubrication (my contribution to the theory).
Perhaps not that much more risk than with most 15+ year-old cars, but just be aware of the risks. So if you get it, replace the timing belt and water pump, and keep the rpm's down, and there are still no guarantees.
Oh - one more downer: One very big consternation among current owner-enthusiasts on the LH forums, based on many failures, is that it appears that *all* replacement water pumps currently available - both aftermarket *and* OEM from the dealers - are absolute junk - almost guaranteed to fail prematurely. Considering that the water pump is timing belt-driven and that the engine is interference, that would be a show-stopper for me - an LH enthusiast - in purchasing an LH car with the 3.2/3.5 today.
Using the timing belt and water pump replacement if the current owner can't provide proof they have been replaced in the last 100k miles or 7 years would be a valid bargaining tool - that would not be a b.s. technique - it's a real need, and a real expense.
Originally Posted By: Peva
Consider that if you can't get proof that the timing belt and water pump have been changed within the last 100k miles or 7 years, you've got a $600 +/- expense to replace those right off the bat, else you risk the belt breaking and bending valves (interference engine).
I'm the owner of two 2nd gen. Concordes. Actually currently own only one now since junking the 3.2 about 2 years ago when the timing belt broke 500 miles shy of the belt change interval. Ironically took the 2.7 engine, which most people consider problematic, with 270k miles on it and put it into the other body and scrapped the 3.2 engine and 2.7 body. The 2.7 engine/3.2 body is now my daily driver - runs like a top.
Here's the bottom line advice coming from someone who has religiously hung out on three different LH car forum sites for 16 years: Besides the risk of damage if your timing belt breaks thru neglect or early breakage, *the* main killer of the 3.2/3.5 engine (same engine with different bores) is the lower end bearings. Seen first-hand reports on the forums of oodles of them scrapped right around 200k miles for that very reason. It's claimed by some experts to be due to the bearings being too large a diameter combined with too high a red-line - perhaps too high a linear speed/shear rate for good lubrication (my contribution to the theory).
Perhaps not that much more risk than with most 15+ year-old cars, but just be aware of the risks. So if you get it, replace the timing belt and water pump, and keep the rpm's down, and there are still no guarantees.
Oh - one more downer: One very big consternation among current owner-enthusiasts on the LH forums, based on many failures, is that it appears that *all* replacement water pumps currently available - both aftermarket *and* OEM from the dealers - are absolute junk - almost guaranteed to fail prematurely. Considering that the water pump is timing belt-driven and that the engine is interference, that would be a show-stopper for me - an LH enthusiast - in purchasing an LH car with the 3.2/3.5 today.
Using the timing belt and water pump replacement if the current owner can't provide proof they have been replaced in the last 100k miles or 7 years would be a valid bargaining tool - that would not be a b.s. technique - it's a real need, and a real expense.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
You want a decent domestic with 200k miles that will last a while longer? Buy a fullsize GM (Buick Park Ave/Lesabre, Olds 88, Pontiac Bonneville) with a 3800 V6. Every one I have had or my family had went well beyond. We just junked our 89 Buick last year. Pops had about 330k on it and it was still going...just the body rotted out.
^^This. Get a GM 3800 powered car if you want a domestic that will live forever. I'm always on the hunt for a clean low mileage 86-91 3800 Oldsmobile 88 or 98.
I bought a 1992 Riviera with 120k on it for 1,100 bucks in 2003 after it got into a minor fender bender. Fixed it up with parts from the boneyard for 300 bucks (found a junked one in the same color for parts) and it died at 235k when the trans finally went 5 years later. I miss that car. Got 33mpg on the highway all day long.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
You want a decent domestic with 200k miles that will last a while longer? Buy a fullsize GM (Buick Park Ave/Lesabre, Olds 88, Pontiac Bonneville) with a 3800 V6. Every one I have had or my family had went well beyond. We just junked our 89 Buick last year. Pops had about 330k on it and it was still going...just the body rotted out.
^^This. Get a GM 3800 powered car if you want a domestic that will live forever. I'm always on the hunt for a clean low mileage 86-91 3800 Oldsmobile 88 or 98.
I bought a 1992 Riviera with 120k on it for 1,100 bucks in 2003 after it got into a minor fender bender. Fixed it up with parts from the boneyard for 300 bucks (found a junked one in the same color for parts) and it died at 235k when the trans finally went 5 years later. I miss that car. Got 33mpg on the highway all day long.
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Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
You want a decent domestic with 200k miles that will last a while longer? Buy a fullsize GM (Buick Park Ave/Lesabre, Olds 88, Pontiac Bonneville) with a 3800 V6. Every one I have had or my family had went well beyond. We just junked our 89 Buick last year. Pops had about 330k on it and it was still going...just the body rotted out.
^^This. Get a GM 3800 powered car if you want a domestic that will live forever. I'm always on the hunt for a clean low mileage 86-91 3800 Oldsmobile 88 or 98.
I bought a 1992 Riviera with 120k on it for 1,100 bucks in 2003 after it got into a minor fender bender. Fixed it up with parts from the boneyard for 300 bucks (found a junked one in the same color for parts) and it died at 235k when the trans finally went 5 years later. I miss that car. Got 33mpg on the highway all day long.
I love those bodystyle Rivieras!! Was yours all digital?
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
You want a decent domestic with 200k miles that will last a while longer? Buy a fullsize GM (Buick Park Ave/Lesabre, Olds 88, Pontiac Bonneville) with a 3800 V6. Every one I have had or my family had went well beyond. We just junked our 89 Buick last year. Pops had about 330k on it and it was still going...just the body rotted out.
^^This. Get a GM 3800 powered car if you want a domestic that will live forever. I'm always on the hunt for a clean low mileage 86-91 3800 Oldsmobile 88 or 98.
I bought a 1992 Riviera with 120k on it for 1,100 bucks in 2003 after it got into a minor fender bender. Fixed it up with parts from the boneyard for 300 bucks (found a junked one in the same color for parts) and it died at 235k when the trans finally went 5 years later. I miss that car. Got 33mpg on the highway all day long.
I love those bodystyle Rivieras!! Was yours all digital?
Yeah it was all digital. Towards the end the dash would occasionally give me an error message (once or twice a month). Had to shut off and restart it when it did that, but it wasn't as bad as some of the earlier GM's digital dashes. The ones in the 80s were utter nightmares.
it looks like a good car. I've looked at lots of used cars, and this one is by far the best, except the owner is holding it until august and not selling it now, as he wants to drive it a little more.
It's only selling for the low 1000s. Can I make a profit off of this car and flip the car? I've talked to peopel who flip cars and they said if you keep the car in your garage, you're fine, without insurance or a plate, and you can get storage insurance which is cheap, for the car, but you can't get a plate with storage insurance alone, but if you leave it in your garage without a plate, you should be fine ,but what about on your driveway? They said they can tow it if you park it on the street, for obvious reasons, but what about leaving it on your driveway, where others can see the lack of a plate? To avoid this issue, a buddy of mine who was selling cars on the side said he used OLD expired license plates on his cars, as cops won't pull up to your driveway, checking the sticker, they'll see it has a plate, and since you're not driving it ,they won't go to your driveway to check it, wheras if it doesn't have a plate (expired/used/old or not), that looks bad, and they can find a reason to tow it, or can't they? I can also store it in the garage, but was curious about storing it on the driveway.
Why I'm asking is a junkyard in my area is selling a thrashed concorde, though it has fewer miles, it is a mechanic special with some major known isues, yet it's selling for more.
So do you think I should buy this car in august, then try to sell it for a profit, since even thrashed junkayrd concordes sell for more, or is it unlikely I can sell it for more money because of its high miles, even if it's in relaly good condition and isn't like a typical used car, and works flawlessly? Thanks.
It's only selling for the low 1000s. Can I make a profit off of this car and flip the car? I've talked to peopel who flip cars and they said if you keep the car in your garage, you're fine, without insurance or a plate, and you can get storage insurance which is cheap, for the car, but you can't get a plate with storage insurance alone, but if you leave it in your garage without a plate, you should be fine ,but what about on your driveway? They said they can tow it if you park it on the street, for obvious reasons, but what about leaving it on your driveway, where others can see the lack of a plate? To avoid this issue, a buddy of mine who was selling cars on the side said he used OLD expired license plates on his cars, as cops won't pull up to your driveway, checking the sticker, they'll see it has a plate, and since you're not driving it ,they won't go to your driveway to check it, wheras if it doesn't have a plate (expired/used/old or not), that looks bad, and they can find a reason to tow it, or can't they? I can also store it in the garage, but was curious about storing it on the driveway.
Why I'm asking is a junkyard in my area is selling a thrashed concorde, though it has fewer miles, it is a mechanic special with some major known isues, yet it's selling for more.
So do you think I should buy this car in august, then try to sell it for a profit, since even thrashed junkayrd concordes sell for more, or is it unlikely I can sell it for more money because of its high miles, even if it's in relaly good condition and isn't like a typical used car, and works flawlessly? Thanks.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: chryslerconcorde
it looks like a good car. I've looked at lots of used cars, and this one is by far the best, except the owner is holding it until august and not selling it now, as he wants to drive it a little more.
It's only selling for the low 1000s. Can I make a profit off of this car and flip the car? I've talked to peopel who flip cars and they said if you keep the car in your garage, you're fine, without insurance or a plate, and you can get storage insurance which is cheap, for the car, but you can't get a plate with storage insurance alone, but if you leave it in your garage without a plate, you should be fine ,but what about on your driveway? They said they can tow it if you park it on the street, for obvious reasons, but what about leaving it on your driveway, where others can see the lack of a plate? To avoid this issue, a buddy of mine who was selling cars on the side said he used OLD expired license plates on his cars, as cops won't pull up to your driveway, checking the sticker, they'll see it has a plate, and since you're not driving it ,they won't go to your driveway to check it, wheras if it doesn't have a plate (expired/used/old or not), that looks bad, and they can find a reason to tow it, or can't they? I can also store it in the garage, but was curious about storing it on the driveway.
Why I'm asking is a junkyard in my area is selling a thrashed concorde, though it has fewer miles, it is a mechanic special with some major known isues, yet it's selling for more.
So do you think I should buy this car in august, then try to sell it for a profit, since even thrashed junkayrd concordes sell for more, or is it unlikely I can sell it for more money because of its high miles, even if it's in relaly good condition and isn't like a typical used car, and works flawlessly? Thanks.
Not engineer20 eh?
LOL!
it looks like a good car. I've looked at lots of used cars, and this one is by far the best, except the owner is holding it until august and not selling it now, as he wants to drive it a little more.
It's only selling for the low 1000s. Can I make a profit off of this car and flip the car? I've talked to peopel who flip cars and they said if you keep the car in your garage, you're fine, without insurance or a plate, and you can get storage insurance which is cheap, for the car, but you can't get a plate with storage insurance alone, but if you leave it in your garage without a plate, you should be fine ,but what about on your driveway? They said they can tow it if you park it on the street, for obvious reasons, but what about leaving it on your driveway, where others can see the lack of a plate? To avoid this issue, a buddy of mine who was selling cars on the side said he used OLD expired license plates on his cars, as cops won't pull up to your driveway, checking the sticker, they'll see it has a plate, and since you're not driving it ,they won't go to your driveway to check it, wheras if it doesn't have a plate (expired/used/old or not), that looks bad, and they can find a reason to tow it, or can't they? I can also store it in the garage, but was curious about storing it on the driveway.
Why I'm asking is a junkyard in my area is selling a thrashed concorde, though it has fewer miles, it is a mechanic special with some major known isues, yet it's selling for more.
So do you think I should buy this car in august, then try to sell it for a profit, since even thrashed junkayrd concordes sell for more, or is it unlikely I can sell it for more money because of its high miles, even if it's in relaly good condition and isn't like a typical used car, and works flawlessly? Thanks.
Not engineer20 eh?
LOL!
if i buy it for the lower 1000s then sell it in the upper 1000s, which is totally reasonable as I saw thrashed junkyard cars that hardly run/have major issues sell in the mid 1000s range, wouldn't I be making some money, so i figure this is a good car to flip. i'll just leave it on the driveway, not register/insure it, and it should be fine.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
There's no way that's a good idea. As everyone has said in this thread those cars are junk, and worth like $400.
You're the only type of person that would be interested in it. Everyone else k ones they're junk so why would anyone be searching "Chrysler Concorde" on Craigslist in the first place?
And if you think it could sell for more than what he's selling it for, then why isn't he selling it for that amount?
You're the only type of person that would be interested in it. Everyone else k ones they're junk so why would anyone be searching "Chrysler Concorde" on Craigslist in the first place?
And if you think it could sell for more than what he's selling it for, then why isn't he selling it for that amount?
Chrysler products of that era were junk when new. 15 years later, they are still junk.
Originally Posted By: chryslerconcorde
if i buy it for the lower 1000s then sell it in the upper 1000s, which is totally reasonable as I saw thrashed junkyard cars that hardly run/have major issues sell in the mid 1000s range, wouldn't I be making some money,
Yeah, you just go ahead and do that.
if i buy it for the lower 1000s then sell it in the upper 1000s, which is totally reasonable as I saw thrashed junkyard cars that hardly run/have major issues sell in the mid 1000s range, wouldn't I be making some money,
Yeah, you just go ahead and do that.
Joseph has never been good with money and cars.
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