10 years without changing the spark plugs

Status
Not open for further replies.
W

wrcsixeight

Joined
Oct 16, 2010
Messages
2,600
Location
california
They are Bosch platinum +2s in a rebuilt Mopar LA 318, and have less than 30K miles on them.

I've currently no issues with spark delivery/misfiring, but I fear leaving them in any longer, that they might already be seized in the heads and removal could turn into a nightmare.

So.... Some PB blaster or similar, and use some tc-w3 in the gas for a tankful or two to help clean any exposed threads inside the CC and remove when warm/hot?

Anything else to consider to lessen chances of breaking a plug or damaging threads in the head and launching tools into low earth orbit followed by a stream of sky blackening expletives??

Access to plugs is not an issue, No U joints, crazy angles required.

I will not be going the multiple electrode route on any future plugs. Will spend more coin on a better plug, aware that any improvements would be basically unnoticeable over any other new plug, and that easy access means that Denso iridium TT/ long life plugs are of limited/no benefit in my application

Any spark plug recommendations?
Stock is Champion #RN12YC
All of RockAuto's listed options for my engine:


http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1989,b250,5.2l+318cid+v8,1073506,ignition,spark+plug,7212
 
I'd go for middle of the road NGK's

Mopars (at least later models) seem to like them just as much (if not better) then the stock Champion

NGK 2763/GR4GP

A reasonable price for a single finewire platinum tip

Should give at least 30k reliable service (where a stock copper plug would be done by then)
 
Agreed on the NGK 2763, but the denso platinum TT 4501 is also looking like a 'flame propagation' winner for a few cents less.

RockAuto is smearing Amazon's prices on any spark plug, even considering shipping.
 
The only thing you really need to do is to simply remove them when cold, like first thing in the morning.No need to use PB blaster or anything else. The plugs will come right out just fine
smile.gif


As for what plugs you should use, nothing wrong with sticking with the OE. However, my choice would probably be the same as mike above me, the NGK 2763 G-power.

The NGK G-power is a popular low-priced plug. DO NOT use anti-seize, as NGK already has a special plating on the threads for easy removal. Denso and Champion also oppose the use of antiseize, s one has already been applied from the factory, but NGK is a tad more vocal about it.

My second choice would be Denso copper.
 
G-Power plugs are a good value. I had a set in for over 20k miles and there was essentially zero gap erosion despite it being a "fine wire"

Cheap V-Power plugs are fine but do not last near as long, I've seen significant gap erosion in only 20k miles
 
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
G-Power plugs are a good value. I had a set in for over 20k miles and there was essentially zero gap erosion despite it being a "fine wire"

Cheap V-Power plugs are fine but do not last near as long, I've seen significant gap erosion in only 20k miles


G-Power have a platinum tip. I think they can last ~60k miles.
 
I bought some plugs once.
They were made by Motorcraft

I looked at the "center electrode" with a magnifying glass.
2 out of 6 were not machined correctly.
Problem: The 'center electrode' had a smaller/rough end.

I took them back and exchanged.

I will now check plugs with a magnifying glass for the rest of my life.
 
You won't have any issues removing those husky RN12YC's. I recently yanked out plugs that were in service since 97, the boots were stuck but I easily broke them free with a warm engine (but do the plugs cold). I would stick with the original Champion RN12YC on your 318. I seen a couple 318's that ran poorly with other plugs.Blow out the crud with a compressor before you remove the plugs. They should last another 30k for you.
 
Last edited:
Why does PB blaster keep getting suggested for plugs? It's not a bolt on a nut with exposed threads... There's a gasket in there that will keep PB out, and there's usually road grime/sand that mixes with the PB to make "mud".

I can't fathom how it will do any good.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Why does PB blaster keep getting suggested for plugs? It's not a bolt on a nut with exposed threads... There's a gasket in there that will keep PB out, and there's usually road grime/sand that mixes with the PB to make "mud".

I can't fathom how it will do any good.


I agree.



Before jumping through too many hoops, just give them a try. I bet they'll come out fine enough.

Also- considering that you've only driven 30k miles in 10 years, I wouldn't bother with anything fancy in the spark plug department. Generally speaking more money will only buy you a longer lasting plug, not more power, torque or whatever. The possible exception is the V and U grooved NGK and Denso plugs. I would stick with the OE Champion or perhaps NGK or Denso plug and call it good.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Why does PB blaster keep getting suggested for plugs? It's not a bolt on a nut with exposed threads... There's a gasket in there that will keep PB out, and there's usually road grime/sand that mixes with the PB to make "mud".

I can't fathom how it will do any good.


I agree.



Before jumping through too many hoops, just give them a try. I bet they'll come out fine enough.

Also- considering that you've only driven 30k miles in 10 years, I wouldn't bother with anything fancy in the spark plug department. Generally speaking more money will only buy you a longer lasting plug, not more power, torque or whatever. The possible exception is the V and U grooved NGK and Denso plugs. I would stick with the OE Champion or perhaps NGK or Denso plug and call it good.


Very good point on the penetrating lube. I can't see how they would "seize into the head," nor how PB would get to the threads. Never heard of having to spray anything on a spark plug. Only down the exposed spark plug hole to the top of the cylinder, while you change them. That is called a piston soak, and breaks up carbon on the top of the piston.

The thing on the spark plug would keep out any liquid, I think its the metal ring that slides up. However, wouldn't it come out easier when hot, due to the metal moving easier? Or would it also expand, and hinder movement. I never did figure that out.

Also, please be advised that in a vehicle I had that was older than 10 years, an electrode got sucked out of the spark plug and I'm pretty certain ruined the engine. Old plug is probably the reason it was fragile enough for that to happen.
 
Change them cold. If they fight you coming out, just work them back and forth a bit. I have taken plugs of out iron head engines that were in there much longer without issues.

As for suggestions, I second the Denso Platinum TT plugs for a cheap and good plug.
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
They are Bosch platinum +2s in a rebuilt Mopar LA 318, and have less than 30K miles on them.

I've currently no issues with spark delivery/misfiring, but I fear leaving them in any longer, that they might already be seized in the heads and removal could turn into a nightmare.

I still have OEM plugs in my 2004 S2000, the car has less than 60k miles so I didn't change it yet.

I loosen the plugs by 2 turns then re-tighten it back few years ago. I will redo loosen/tighten all plugs this year or next so that it will not be seized to he head.

I will not change it until 80-100k miles which will be another 5-8 years for a total of about 18-20 years old plugs.
 
Checking some pics and papers, They have actually been in there almost 12 years and 32K miles. I did not use a torque wrench then, might have been a little aggressive, can't remember.

I'd replaced champions with only 10K miles on them as I needed to get my first CA smog test and was doing everything I could to ensure lowest emissions. The champions were not worn but looked poorly machined, and my opinion of them soured.

Will change cold, just trying to keep tools from being launched into low earth orbit as Murphy's Can of worms law likes to harass me.

Am interested in seeing how these old bosch+2 platinums look after 32K miles. Will post some macro pics of electrode wear, if there is anything of interest to my eyes. Despite being thought a poor choice for this engine, they have worked well. My smog numbers were always low and MPGS as expected and actually got better every 2 years with other tweaks like a NTK o2 sensor, better CTS and using Deoxit d5 to clean all the sensor and engine computer connectors of rather hideous amounts of oxidation that formed despite being immersed in dielectric grease.
 
Master procrastinator I am.

Yesterday, I pulled plug number 8 for inspection. It came out easily.

I do not know what to think about its condition with this electrode design.

20160625_151954%20copy_zpszgwedo9i.jpg


20160625_151944%20copy_zpswaalcbi6.jpg


What do you all think?
 
That plug looks pretty good to me, although I don't think those weird bosch plugs really do anything over any other plug.

Not surprised they came out easy--plugs getting seized in the head is mostly a problem in aluminum heads (because the plug threads are steel), but your old LA has iron heads.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

DuckRyder
Anyone have access to ELSA or maybe Alldata Professional - 2019 VW 1.4t Spark Plug Change and Specifications
Replies
9
Views
644
DuckRyder
Yah-Tah-Hey
Spark Plug Replacement After 18 years.
2
Replies
35
Views
4K
oldhp
zyxelenator
ACDELCO iridium spark plugs after 100k in Chevy Volt
2
Replies
26
Views
7K
tyman
M
Lexus ES350 spark plug change
Replies
16
Views
4K
MaximaGuy
J
Spark Plug Change Humor
Replies
14
Views
2K
bullwinkle
Back
Top