Brakes.....

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OVERKILL

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So my wife has been bugging me about the strange noise her brakes on the '06 Charger have been making lately. No performance issues, just a chattering sound, which I have heard, and it was quite loud, particularly in reverse. She "booked me" for this afternoon after work to take a look at it.

Pulled both sides apart, found some pretty decent rust creep (to the point of marks on the pads) on the back sides of the rotors and absolutely bone-dry sticking pad sliders. Inner pad on the drivers side wouldn't even move. Somebody had also, I assume in an attempt to get rid of the brake squeal problem the car had when we first bought it, siliconed the living *bleep* out of the pads and callipers, which was fun to remove. The silicone was so heavy on the passenger side that it was most definitely affecting the ability for the boot to operate properly on one or both of the pistons.

I hauled out the wire wheel and the drill, along with a file and the Permatex synthetic brake lube and cleaned everything off, used a hammer to bash off the rust scale on the backs of the rotors (probably not going to help much but it was worth a shot) and then filed the pad slide points, got rid of any sharp edges, cleaned off the silicone, used the synthetic lube on any contact points and reassembled.

Brakes are now dead silent.

The car has some pretty meaty aluminum twin piston callipers up front BTW, they are actually pretty substantial, I was a bit surprised.
 
Which permatex? I had bad luck with some before.. I do know there is 4 or 5 kinds... I forget which I had.

I now use sil-glyde on the sliders, but I was't happy with it washing off the pad contact points (ears)
so now use pastelub on those.



Note: a very thin coat of pastelub on the top of a garage door opener square beam makes it very quiet
smile.gif
.. Well that and adjusting the chain drive tension.


Sil-Glyde
https://www.amazon.com/AGS-SG8-Lubricant...words=sil+glyde

Pastelub
https://www.goodson.com/Pastelub-Synthetic-Hi-Temp-Brake-Lubricant/
 
I'd keep up on the greasing since you're in the rust belt. Supton on here takes the brakes apart on his car ps several times a year and re-does them because they freeze up with all the corrosion.

Here in Phoenix, you don't have to worry. My grandpa has had his Jeep for 9 years and I finally pulled a caliper and they were perfect, greasy and sliding perfect. And it sees a lot of dirt roads.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I'd keep up on the greasing since you're in the rust belt. Supton on here takes the brakes apart on his car ps several times a year and re-does them because they freeze up with all the corrosion.


I take my front disc brakes apart twice a year (at seasonal tire changeover time) and grease them to keep everything sliding properly.

Originally Posted By: Rand
Note: a very thin coat of pastelub on the top of a garage door opener square beam makes it very quiet
smile.gif
.. Well that and adjusting the chain drive tension.


Don't quite see how lubing a GDO rail helps. When the chain is properly tensioned, it only contacts the drive sprocket and the idler sprocket and nothing else.
 
Good work. I absolutely hate working on brakes where someone has used that silicone "glue." That stuff really doesn't have a place in most modern braking systems.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand

so now use pastelub on those.

Pastelub
https://www.goodson.com/Pastelub-Synthetic-Hi-Temp-Brake-Lubricant/

Congrats for discovering Pastelub. I cannot sing enough praises for this stuff. Try washing it off your hands under water and one will realize how phenomenal it resists water absorption and washoff. Supposedly, the high solids moly content provides marble-like boundary lube, even in extreme heat apps. Much cheaper than Molykote 77.

Besides brakes, I use a paper thin coat on rotor hats,hubs, and anywhere else I want to completely ward off rust from our salt bath winters. I put some on my open farm gate hinges and it is still there 2 years later.

I challenge anyone to not love this stuff anywhere tenacious lube and rust protection is needed. (I have no connection with the importer of Pastelub).
 
Originally Posted By: George7941


Originally Posted By: Rand
Note: a very thin coat of pastelub on the top of a garage door opener square beam makes it very quiet
smile.gif
.. Well that and adjusting the chain drive tension.


Don't quite see how lubing a GDO rail helps. When the chain is properly tensioned, it only contacts the drive sprocket and the idler sprocket and nothing else.


It wasnt sliding smoothly I'm not a garage door fixer pro or anything. It was chattering and banging. There was a pile of "wear dust" from the sliding part on the rail.

I tensioned it and it was still kind of grabby. So I got out the bigger ladder cleaned off the cheapo snap together square rail. And lightly lubed it. Now its smooth and as quiet as a chain drive can be. I didnt gob it on.. just applied with a finger tip. Chain tension is supposed to be 1/4" from bottom of rail.. it took about 9 threads to tighten.. I ran it once then backed it off to 7 threads tighter.

Pastelub isnt like grease.
I would never use automotive grease or oil on that rail.
The very thin film just gives it a nearly frictionless surface.

Anyway that is all off topic.

Stuff works amazing on brakes.
 
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