Brake Fluid Exchange- Kia

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: rsylvstr
And that's why I'm having my mechanic do it!


And that's why I do it myself, because (a) its easy, and (b) I'll know what was done.

Although its easy, it can be time consuming, and there are corners that could be cut. Maybe not an issue with your mechanic, but in Taiwan.....

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: rsylvstr
And that's why I'm having my mechanic do it!

And that's why I do it myself, because (a) its easy, and (b) I'll know what was done.

Although its easy, it can be time consuming, and there are corners that could be cut. Maybe not an issue with your mechanic, but in Taiwan.....

The most time consuming are these works:

1. Raise the rear
2. Set the jack stands
3. Remove the wheels ------- Do the flush in less than 5-6 minutes with Mityvac 7201
4. Reinstall the wheels
5. Remove jack stands
6. Lower the car

Repeat steps 1 through 6 for the front. Put everything away after done.

Total time to do brake fluid flush is about 1 hour while the flush itself is only 10-12 minutes.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted By: ediamiam
I scheduled an oil change at the dealer for my 2012 Kia Sorento and requested a brake fluid flush at the same time. I got an email from the service manager asking what was wrong with the brakes. It's not a scheduled item. Having said that, I performed a turkey baster exchange of the reservoir. It seemed to firm up the pedal response.


That turkey baster stuff does little.That fluid will sit in the master cylinder. You need to bleed them from each wheel. Firmer pedal? Doubtful, another mind over matter experience.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: rsylvstr
And that's why I'm having my mechanic do it!

And that's why I do it myself, because (a) its easy, and (b) I'll know what was done.

Although its easy, it can be time consuming, and there are corners that could be cut. Maybe not an issue with your mechanic, but in Taiwan.....


Total time to do brake fluid flush is about 1 hour while the flush itself is only 10-12 minutes.


In a perfect world, with an efficient operator. Neither apply. I'm slow. Sometimes bleed nipples, or even wheels, are stubborn. Sometimes (if the system has been drained due to a component replacement, which hopefully won't be the situation if you flush regularly) it takes a while to get all the bubbles out and get a firm pedal. Sometimes you spot something (like a dodgy brake hose, for example), that turns it into a bigger job.But I agree a simple flush itself doesn't take very long, which is why I said it was easy.

 

[Bgallagher]

Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
I will flush out my fluid every time I do my brakes which tends to be 3-5 years. I drive in bad traffic most of the time.


and to add, I use one of those phoenix systems that backflushes. I do the turkey baster method from the master cylinder and use the phoenix systems to push new fluid through the system. When the MC fluid looks clean I will do another turkey baster for good measure. Seems to do a nice job and is a one man operation. Doesn't take long either

 

[willbur]

Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Depends who you talk to, and who made it.

Friends' Ferrari has an all caps warning to change brake fluid every year to prevent corrosion of the brake system.

Brake fluid is very hygroscopic. You'd be amazed how much boiling point you can lose in fluid that "looks good".


I read some time ago that Ford engineers sampled brake fluid in junked cars at auto salvage yards and found little water in the fluid. Just saying...

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: willbur
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Depends who you talk to, and who made it.

Friends' Ferrari has an all caps warning to change brake fluid every year to prevent corrosion of the brake system.

Brake fluid is very hygroscopic. You'd be amazed how much boiling point you can lose in fluid that "looks good".


I read some time ago that Ford engineers sampled brake fluid in junked cars at auto salvage yards and found little water in the fluid. Just saying...


That's of some interest, but its likely that they didn't know the maintenance history of those cars. Since cars don't usually stay in scrapyards all that long, I'd guess its probably pretty close to a road-going sample.

I'd bet LARGE amounts of money that any randomly selected Taiwanese or British scrap yard won't contain a car older than mine.

It'd be of interest to measure the distribution of water within an old contaminated system. (Is it mostly in the reservoir or down around the business end?) but I havn't seen that done.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
I will flush out my fluid every time I do my brakes which tends to be 3-5 years. I drive in bad traffic most of the time.


and to add, I use one of those phoenix systems that backflushes. I do the turkey baster method from the master cylinder and use the phoenix systems to push new fluid through the system. When the MC fluid looks clean I will do another turkey baster for good measure. Seems to do a nice job and is a one man operation. Doesn't take long either


Sounds like what I do with the enema syringe. I'm told its flying in the face of all established practice and will destroy my master cylinder. Heigh ho.

 

[willbur]

Ford engineers sampling brake fluid in salvage yards found 1% water contamination at 7 years. Don't know if this is significant but copper leaching out of brake components and degrading these components is. This happens when the corrosion inhibitors become depleted. So, for this reason alone it is prudent to flush the system frequently and preserve braking system safety. Brake fluid is cheap and flushing is easy, in my experience. Ppl really overthink this stuff...

Some companies sell testing strips to determine corrosive properties of the fluid.

 

[UG_Passat]

A motive pressure bleeder is an initial investment.

...but, I know some made there own pressure bleeder using a garden sprayer.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
A motive pressure bleeder is an initial investment.

...but, I know some made there own pressure bleeder using a garden sprayer.


Some people build detailed replicas of Notre Dame Cathedral from matchsticks. I suppose they enjoy it, but it isn't necessary, and neither is a "motive pressure bleeder", whatever it is.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Install Russell Speed Bleeders and run about a quart and a half of Valvoline DOT3/4 through system every two years.

 

[UG_Passat]

Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
A motive pressure bleeder is an initial investment.

...but, I know some made there own pressure bleeder using a garden sprayer.


Some people build detailed replicas of Notre Dame Cathedral from matchsticks. I suppose they enjoy it, but it isn't necessary, and neither is a "motive pressure bleeder", whatever it is.



Pretty obvious you never used a pressure bleeder to flush your lines, hence your nonsense reply

 

[Doc8404]

Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Install Russell Speed Bleeders and run about a quart and a half of Valvoline DOT3/4 through system every two years.


Are they a standard size?
Would like to put in my truck when I install new calipers.

 

[Doc8404]

Forget I asked.
Also dorman has them

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C5C6Z...&ref=plSrch

 

[Doc8404]

Anyone have a better source than the Russell site?
Shows nothing for my truck can't imagine why those listed wouldn't fit my truck.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Install Russell Speed Bleeders and run about a quart and a half of Valvoline DOT3/4 through system every two years.
No. Use the Russell web site to determine size. I might also suggest you use silicone grease around each bleeder to prevent air from entering brake line. The Russell units have a thread sealer but over time that sealer can let air enter the system. The silicone grease is viscous enough to remain in place as the bleeder is opened. Use jack stands and don't depend on jack to support vehicle. I have found that it takes about 13/15 stokes of pedal to fill the bleeder cup. I also use a piece of 7/8 wood under the brake pedal to prevent piston from traveling beyond normal stroke travel. Brake fluid shows very little discoloring over two year replacement interval. Valvoline DOT 3/4 from AZ or others. Work Safe.

 

[cronk]

I usually flush my brake fluid when I do a pad change, which is usually 3 years.
I crack the bleeder screw before I push the caliper piston in. This push's the nasty fluid from the caliper out rather than back up the line.
Then when I am done with my brake job, I put fresh fluid in the master and let each wheel gravity bleed until fresh fluid is coming out the bleeder.

 

[Doc8404]

Good tips. Powerstop one click kits from rock auto has everything together.
Amazon has for some vehicles and there is no [censored] core charge.

Then again, I just checked my account. Only two years old which means about 8,000 miles and they are pulsating. I think it's the [censored] pads. The slots and holes are filled partially with pad material unsure how warm the pads themselves are. I'm sure I will need calipers on the next job which was why I was leaning towards their kit

Z23 Evolution Sport; Incl. Hardware
High-performance rotor & pad set delivers the big brake feel without the big brake price

Custom-matched components are engineered to work together for maximum performance
Pads & rotors crafted for your specific year, make & model vehicle
Kit includes high-performance carbon fiber/ceramic brake pads and a complete set of cross-drilled and slotted rotors

Power Stop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Pads:

Carbon Fiber and Ceramic Compound
High temperature threshold to resist fade during extreme driving
Quiet, low-dust ceramic formula
Shims made with dual rubber layers over constrained steel to eliminate noise
Premium stainless steel hardware kit included where applicable
High temperature ceramic lubricant included with every pad set
Power Stop Drilled & Slotted Rotors:

Drill holes reduce brake temperature
Slots sweep gas and dust away for solid pad contact
Silver zinc plated to resist corrosion
Precision machined for exact OEM fit
Power Stop Brake Rotor/Pad Instructions & Break-In Procedure
Rotor Construction Floating Rotor
OE Type Vented
Diameter (mm) 308.00
Diameter (in) 12.13
Height (mm) 52.00
Height (in) 2.05
Nominal Thickness (mm) 26.00
Nominal Thickness (in) 1.02
Minimum Thickness(mm) 24.50
Minimum Thickness(in) 0.96
Hub Hole Diameter(mm) 90.00
Hub Hole Diameter(in) 3.53
Stud/Stud Hole Size 0.59
Studs 5
Bolt Circle (mm) 133.35
Bolt Circle (in) 5.25
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): BK232999
Components that come in this kit Quantity
POWER STOP [Brake Pad] Z23 Evolution Sport Carbon Fiber/Ceramic Brake Pads Info
Front; 5 Lugs

 

[andyd]

You guys are funny, investing money that you'll use once every 3 yrs. I haven't got space for tools like that. I can rig an airlock on a greased bleeder with 2 feet of tubing ,and a little bottle. Clear plastic is best, but last bleed was with some old vacuum hose. With the door open, I lean in and pump the pedal by hand whilst I watch and listen for bubbles. I use a 4oz bottle. When it gets full, I break and top off the MC A gravity bleed only requires a pan to catch the stream. I like it because a line won't bleed if there is air entering the line. It is a great way to test a line repair. I generally chase drips from the MC toward the bleeder. I fit lines hand tight then move on to the next fitting. Then I start tightening the fittings.and wiping them dry because I forgot to tighten them snug before filling the MC. I hit every single coupling all the way to the RR wheel cylinder bleeder, which finally flowed a clear steady stream.