Can oil flow backwards through an oil filter?

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As per the subject, can oil flow backwards through an oil filter? Meaning if it was hooked up backwards so that in was out and out was in, how much oil would flow?

Depends on the filter? How about this one?

Ryco Z9 Filter
 
That particular filter looks like it has an anti-drainback valve and probably wouldn't flow backwards. Others probably COULD, but why would you want to?
 
without a drainback valve oil would flow. BUT the media would not be properly supported, and would probably tear.

Rod
 
a new engine was hooked up like this. It ran for longer than you would have thought.

I would have assumed no or minimal oil would have flowed through this filter as I think it has anti drain back valve, but am curious about how much might actually have got through
 
Originally Posted By: Ned_Loh
a new engine was hooked up like this. It ran for longer than you would have thought.

I would have assumed no or minimal oil would have flowed through this filter as I think it has anti drain back valve, but am curious about how much might actually have got through


Someone must be using a remote filter mount and crossed the inlet and outlet hoses. No way for oil to flow 'backwards' through a filter if it's mounted directly on the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


Someone must be using a remote filter mount and crossed the inlet and outlet hoses.


yes that is sort of what happened. you need to add an oil cooler into the mix.

So the engine got zero? or a little? but certainly not a lot???
 
Most likely your engine is damaged, Ive seen several hooked up backwards over the years here at the speed shop. kit cars etc.... its never good for the bearings.
 
I'm pretty sure a Ryco Z9 has an anti-drainback valve, which is ment to stop the reverse flow of oil out of the filter.

Was it a full flow or by-pass filter set-up?

Drainback isn't a high pressure thing, just trying to keep the filter full of oil when the engine is stopped. Maybe you had enough pressure in the pump to push past the rubber flapper valve and get some flow happening. I don't know, just guessing.

Good Luck !!!
 
Saw this happen one time. Engine registered no pressure and was shut down immediately. Guy went to remove the filter to see what was wrong and POP! pressurized oil burst from the adapter.
 
I thought that remote adapter kits, the hoses were different colors and sizes to prevent backwards hook-up.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL
I thought that remote adapter kits, the hoses were different colors and sizes to prevent backwards hook-up.


Most of them that I've seen have either arrows or say IN/OUT. The rest is up to 3rd grade reading comprehension
whistle.gif
 
^^^ I have seen and used 4 different types of bypass filters, starting with Amsoil and going to Kleen-Oil, Puradyn, NTZ. The Puradyn has 1/8" inlet and 3/4" outlet...The rest are very CLEARLY labeled; in fact, stamped or cast into the piece.

Like the poster stated, this is up there with 3rd grade reading comprehension. I would add that this is as careless as some service place not tightening (or cross threading) an oil drain plug. I daresay this was NOT the owner of the vehicle who did this.

Lesson learned: (which should be a Duh!?) is to ALWAYS watch the oil pressure gauge when starting a vehicle after service. If the vehicle does not have an oil pressure gauge, install one or get rid of the vehicle.
 
I forgot I started this thread.

let me clear up a few points.

- I assembled the engine, I did not install it.
- The professional mechanic made an error for which he admitted and was fixed at his cost. Mistakes happen and he stood by his work. Didn't cut corners on the new parts needed for the rebuild either. He is a top mechanic and has prepared winning cars up to national level.
- I don't have it in front of me but if I recall correctly the remote filter housing didn't have any arrows on it
- the 'to engine' and 'from engine' lines had the same fitting and were not marked. They should have been.
- The vehicle was fitted with an oil pressure gauge but it was reading from the remote filter housing and showing good pressure (I think, my memory is a little grey on this point though. May have been temp reading from housing but I don't think so as I am pretty sure temp was reading from sump. Yeah, must have been oil pressure. In fact now I recall that oil pressure sender location was changed following this to be in the line from oil cooler just as enters block to prevent such an incident ever happening again)

My curiosity and reason for this thread was simply how much oil the engine was getting because it actually ran for quite a while. Whilst this incident happened a good number of years ago I still ponder and am amazed how it lasted as long as it did.

The engine was assembled with liberal assembly lube although I forget which one and I have swapped between a few brands over the years. I don't know what would have happened if I used just plain old oil during assembly...but...I wouldn't use anything buy assembly lube now. I'm sold.

I am now no longer as worried as I used to be if a fresh engine doesn't fire first time and takes a bit of sorting out.
smile.gif
 
Technically, if the ADBV sealed well with the oil pressure pushing on its backside, then the engine wouldn't have gotten any oil flow. The oil pump probably hit pressure relief since the flow was blocked off by the ADBV. If the ADBV couldn't take the pressure and blew through the base plate holes, then the engine would have gotten some oil, along with some chunks of ADBV.

Sounds like the engine ran as long as it did due to the generous assembly lube.
 
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