Highest Zinc Level Oil for Rebuilt 350 CI Engine

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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Because with flat lifters it's the right thing to do. Especially if the cam vendor supplies an etching break in lube for the cam lobes, with instructions to keep it off the bearings. That stuff needs to be drained immediately after cam break in (20-30 minutes at 1500 rpm or higher)


Never heard of etching break in lube. I've always seen break in grease used on bearings too.
 
You've done well so far, don't worry. That engine doesn't need anything too special. I used to recommend M1 10W-30 HM or an HDEO 10W-30 but I'm real giddy over Delo's new 15W-30 SD. Their literature claims it is suitable for anything requiring an XXW-30. Assuming this is a summer toy, that oil will serve you well.

Originally Posted By: mdlab
Appreciate the dialogue. Drained off the Brad Penn IAW my machine shop's direction...it was the zinc enriched 30W designed only for the break in run of 30 minutes, not beyond that. The Dino oil was also at the direction of the machine shop (same direction given by GM for Chevy/GM crate motors) to be used for first 500 miles, then a 10w-30 synthetic is recommended. Trying to determine if using high mileage M1 synthetic for its high zinc content might have other unintended consequences. It's among the highest zinc content (higher than Brad Penn, et al) I've found and is readily available and reasonably priced.
 
Thanks again to all. Car restoration has a ways to go before ready to hit the road. With plans to drive year round, Mobil 1 HM or Amsoil's Z Rod are two top contenders...as of 0945 on Sunday Feb 22, 2015. Plenty more time for me to obsess over this!
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Rotella T-5 has a high zinc loading that is great for flat tappet motors and older flat tappet engines \been running it in a 20 year old jeep and my oil reports come back from blackstone a happy camper it's my on's college ride . all highway miles from the middle of wisconsin to upper minn, back to illinois , been a bullet proof oil
 
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 is a good choice. QS Defy is no longer high zinc or api SL, it's now API SN resource conserving with regular zddp limits imposed by api sn
 
I really don't think extra zddp additives have any place in motor outside of break in. Too much ZDDP is corrosive and you're also upsetting the additive package which is delicately balanced since all the elements are fighting for the metal in the engine
 
Mild springs and lift, high zddp is not need, after break-in.

I used M1 15w-50 and zddp additive for years.
I now use M1 20w-50 and lighter dose of zddp additive.
I run in for 20-30min and drain. Second drain after dyno or 500miles.



Harvey
 
This vehicle sounds like it will be driven hard. I would look at some rotella t5 10w30 or t6 5w40, run it and never give it a second thought.
 
I ran a Poll over on Chevelles.com asking what people ran. They build some stout cars over there. By far the preferred oil is Valvoline VR-1 in the silver Bottle. When I say "by far" I mean 2:1 over Mobil1 which is in second place. I think that Poll is up to a few hundred responders by now, so it's a decent sample size in the hot-rod community.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-performance/831521-what-oil-do-you-use.html

We are aware of that generation SBC having cam failure issues, but you did not say what cam is in it, or more importantly, what lifters are in it? And which valve springs?

The number one check is to pull the valve covers (one at a time) after the motor is warmed up and idling and check to make sure all the push rods are spinning, and at the same rate.

If all the push rods are spinning at the same rate, you are likely good to go for many, many thousands of miles.

If any are slow or not turning, you either have a lifter bore off-center or a tight lifter. Your cam is already gone for all intents and purposes. You could then pop the intake and swap a few including that slow one, to make sure they are not tight. But it is going down hill.

For Oil, I'd just run VR-1 10W-30. It ranks well in race motors and street motors and has no critics that I know of. It has plenty of zinc and a good stout add-pak overall.

Another option is Maxlife 10W-40 (red bottle). It also has a good add- pak, so a lot of less than ground-pounder engine guys are starting to use it as a readily available street oil they can get most anywhere. I call it VR-1 jr
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Personally, I have always had good luck with 15W-40 HDEO's in warmed over engines. I have a few well over 200K running on Delo400.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The Mobil 1 HM 10w30 is one of the best choices you can pick, go for that.

+ 1

The regular M1 5W-30 has 900 ppm Zn, HTHS of 3.1 and is API SN

M1 High Mileage 5W-30 has 1100 ppm Zinc, HTHS of 3.3, and is API SL.
M1 HM 10W-30 has 1100 ppm Zinc, HTHS of 3.5, and is API SL

If you want a synthetic with more ZDDP then M1 HM is a good pick.

Valvoline VR1 is also a good oil that is high in zinc.

Also any 10W-30 HDEO like Rotella or Delo is high in zinc.

But, Defy is now SN with regular zinc.
 
The highest ZDDP oil(commonly available oil) I know of is Mobil 1, 20W-50 V-Twin motorcycle oil.

It's a true group IV PAO based oil. It's capable of handling extreme heat. Turbo race car guys love it, as it does not coke turbo bearings, or thin excessively when hot.

Contains 1600PPM Phos, 1750PPM Zinc. It also has a HTHS of 5.8, one of the highest around!

The air cooled turbo Porsche race-car guys get are using this oil regularly now, as it protects their engines perfectly! Great UOA results.
 
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