Cerwin Vega AT-10

[hatt]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
How do you properly power big floor speakers?


I rarely see a receiver go over 100 watts.

Some amps or pre amps seem to sometimes have power, but they are like $1000 on Crutchfield.


I want 200-250w X 2 to properly power mine......then may I be in peace awhile as I await getting a 15" sub in my pickup truck to soothe my jitters.
The sensitivity of the speaker is the main factor of how much power they need. The wattage rating on low cost receivers is virtually useless as well. 100 solid watts will drive about anything to reasonable levels.

 

[dave123]

Originally Posted By: hatt
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
How do you properly power big floor speakers?


I rarely see a receiver go over 100 watts.

Some amps or pre amps seem to sometimes have power, but they are like $1000 on Crutchfield.


I want 200-250w X 2 to properly power mine......then may I be in peace awhile as I await getting a 15" sub in my pickup truck to soothe my jitters.
The sensitivity of the speaker is the main factor of how much power they need. The wattage rating on low cost receivers is virtually useless as well. 100 solid watts will drive about anything to reasonable levels.

+1 them speakers are not that hard to drive at all

 

[punisher]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
How do you properly power big floor speakers?
I rarely see a receiver go over 100 watts.


SC-1323-K for now. Powered them for years with a 110 Watt/channel continuous Sony previously, and previous to that the Kenwood M2A Basic (330W X2 at 4 ohms). An actual 100 watt amp with some headroom will make big speakers sound great.......usually.

 

[hatt]

There is always this: https://www.outlawaudio.com/products/7900.html

Quote:
So powerful that it needs dual 15A breakers, this state-of-the-art behemoth takes no prisoners when it comes to turning your favorite soundtracks into life-changing experiences. This all new fully balanced power amplifier uses 24 output transistors per channel to deliver an astounding 7x300 watts per channel, all channnels driven! Our most advanced design ever.

Specifications
Power output: 300 watts RMS x 7 (all channels driven simultaneously into 8 ohms from 20 Hz to 20 kHz with less than 0.05% total harmonic distortion).
Signal to Noise: >120dB below rated FTCfull bandwidth power
Power Bandwidth: 5 Hz - over 100 kHz (+0/-3 dB)
Crosstalk: Greater than -100 dB from 20 Hz to 20 KHz
Intermodulation Distortion: Less than .02% from 250mV to full rated FTC power
Voltage gain: XLR 28dB, RCA 28dB.
Slew rate: 50 Volts/microsecond
Remote Trigger voltage: 3 - 24 volts DC
Power requirements: 2x 115 V 50-60 Hz
Power consumption: 2x 1,440 watts (maximum)
Dimensions (W x H x D): 17.2 x 9.5 with feet x 19.5 (inches)
Weight: 145 (lbs)

 

[dave123]

Originally Posted By: hatt
There is always this: https://www.outlawaudio.com/products/7900.html

Quote:
So powerful that it needs dual 15A breakers, this state-of-the-art behemoth takes no prisoners when it comes to turning your favorite soundtracks into life-changing experiences. This all new fully balanced power amplifier uses 24 output transistors per channel to deliver an astounding 7x300 watts per channel, all channnels driven! Our most advanced design ever.

Specifications
Power output: 300 watts RMS x 7 (all channels driven simultaneously into 8 ohms from 20 Hz to 20 kHz with less than 0.05% total harmonic distortion).
Signal to Noise: >120dB below rated FTCfull bandwidth power
Power Bandwidth: 5 Hz - over 100 kHz (+0/-3 dB)
Crosstalk: Greater than -100 dB from 20 Hz to 20 KHz
Intermodulation Distortion: Less than .02% from 250mV to full rated FTC power
Voltage gain: XLR 28dB, RCA 28dB.
Slew rate: 50 Volts/microsecond
Remote Trigger voltage: 3 - 24 volts DC
Power requirements: 2x 115 V 50-60 Hz
Power consumption: 2x 1,440 watts (maximum)
Dimensions (W x H x D): 17.2 x 9.5 with feet x 19.5 (inches)
Weight: 145 (lbs)



You want power you want some of the absolute best sound for the money you call Klaus at odyssey that's what I did.

 

[hatt]

Their stuff looks pretty nice. I sent a link to my brother. He's in the market for an integrated amp. Although the cyclops may be a limited.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
How do you properly power big floor speakers?


I rarely see a receiver go over 100 watts.

Some amps or pre amps seem to sometimes have power, but they are like $1000 on Crutchfield.


I want 200-250w X 2 to properly power mine......then may I be in peace awhile as I await getting a 15" sub in my pickup truck to soothe my jitters.

2x 300W at 8 Ohm;
https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/xpa-gen3

 

[hatt]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28


I love my E312s. I just did the surround on one of them last year since owning them since 1998. It was probably my fault for using it in a car for a little while I didnt know better.

Just cannot find a receiver with decent, powerful, undistorted, good quality sound to be able to turn up the bass.
OK. I'll bite. Just what receivers are you looking at. E312's have a sensitivity of 98dB. They're not hard to drive at all. I think you're expecting a little much. A pair of vegas does not a nightclub sound system make.

 

[hatt]

If you want some nice juice for cheap look for late 90s and early 2000 Yamaha/etc receiver. A friend just gave me a Yammy 1997ish RX-V2092. Old girl simply crushed the $500 Onkyo 7.1 heap I have. The new under $1K home theater receivers are simply about more and more features. They don't even concern themselves with sound quality.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Originally Posted By: hatt
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28


I love my E312s. I just did the surround on one of them last year since owning them since 1998. It was probably my fault for using it in a car for a little while I didnt know better.

Just cannot find a receiver with decent, powerful, undistorted, good quality sound to be able to turn up the bass.
OK. I'll bite. Just what receivers are you looking at. E312's have a sensitivity of 98dB. They're not hard to drive at all. I think you're expecting a little much. A pair of vegas does not a nightclub sound system make.




They do great up until I pump up the jams.



What I guess I was and have been expecting all of these years is the kind of bass I get from a car audio dedicated subwoofer in its own enclosure with its own amp. You may be correct, thanks for calling it out.


the E312 has strong subwoofers, but they share the entire cabinet with mids and tweeters PLUS the crossover network may not be suitable to make the SUB woofer type bass (like strong below60Hz) but just be a big woofer that makes adequate bass below 100Hz.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Originally Posted By: hatt
If you want some nice juice for cheap look for late 90s and early 2000 Yamaha/etc receiver. A friend just gave me a Yammy 1997ish RX-V2092. Old girl simply crushed the $500 Onkyo 7.1 heap I have. The new under $1K home theater receivers are simply about more and more features. They don't even concern themselves with sound quality.




I think that is where I have been misled. I got Yamaha's cheapest 2 channel that is rated for 100x2, but at 1KHz at high distortion. I have looked into their flagship $500 receiver that is still 100x2 but at whatever frequency and with much lower distortion ratings.





Also, hatt.......nowadays I hear something about musical recordings. They are not CD quality like in the 1990s. They are compressed when recorded and then when they are played they are enlarged. So you don't get much to begin with, then when you go to listen-you get a lot of over the top booms and flashes from the smoke and mirror show

 

[hatt]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28




They do great up until I pump up the jams.



What I guess I was and have been expecting all of these years is the kind of bass I get from a car audio dedicated subwoofer in its own enclosure with its own amp. You may be correct, thanks for calling it out.


the E312 has strong subwoofers, but they share the entire cabinet with mids and tweeters PLUS the crossover network may not be suitable to make the SUB woofer type bass (like strong below60Hz) but just be a big woofer that makes adequate bass below 100Hz.
Yeah. A car vs home is apples and oranges.

 

[hatt]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28




I think that is where I have been misled. I got Yamaha's cheapest 2 channel that is rated for 100x2, but at 1KHz at high distortion. I have looked into their flagship $500 receiver that is still 100x2 but at whatever frequency and with much lower distortion ratings.
You're not getting a "flagship" Yamaha for $500.00 lol. You have to look into their integrated amps if you want better stuff. The A=S3000 is $7000. It's also 100 watts. Wattage means virtually nothing these days.





Quote:
Also, hatt.......nowadays I hear something about musical recordings. They are not CD quality like in the 1990s. They are compressed when recorded and then when they are played they are enlarged. So you don't get much to begin with, then when you go to listen-you get a lot of over the top booms and flashes from the smoke and mirror show
Yes. Most modern music is horribly mastered. Search "loudness wars." A sad state. I think it may be changing however. You can always buy vinyl which doesn't suffer so much.

 

[OVERKILL]

FWIW, I have a old set of D-3's that were powered quite well by a Harman-Kardon similar to this one:

http://www.harmankardon.com/stereo-amplifiers/HK+3770.html?dwvar_HK 3770_color=Black#start=1

Which lists:
Quote:
120 watts per channel, two channels driven @ 6/8 ohms, 20Hz – 20kHz, div>


The speakers have been a bit modified with McIntosh tweeters and Bravox woofers. I was also using a high output PA amp (Yorkville) for a time, since I also, like you, enjoy bass-heavy music and have a large car sub in a McIntosh box that I was trying to figure out how to power properly.

Currently I have that sub powered by a Speakercraft standalone amp, and the CV's are powered by a Denon AVR-X4200W, which has similar output to the HK:

Quote:
Power Output (8 ohm, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.05% 2ch Drive) 125 W


And has no problem powering the speakers at volume. If you don't have a stand-alone sub, I would suggest getting one, as that may be the missing component