Got another older as in 17+ years old push mower I am cleaning up. It was free and so far is looking to be a good runner. I am thinking of either PP 10w30 or M1 10w30 for oil to use in this. Thoughts?
Old push mower oil recommendations
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Originally Posted By: Warstud
An old mower will probably burn oil. Use SAE 30.
+1
An old mower will probably burn oil. Use SAE 30.
+1
If it uses oil, top it off with anything on hand.
10w30 would be my first choice and if it consumes too much then go to a 15w40. Ed
+1
In my experience, they have been neglected. Often they have never had an oil change...
They are simple engines and are not hard on oil. But they need a reliable supply. SO get the old oil out. Put some lightweight oil in there. Say 5W-20 syn just to cleanse things. Fire it up and run it for a bit. Drain and now put the running oil in there.
If it smoked on the light stuff, the rings may be stuck (coked from old oil)... If so, use a big shot of Break-Free gun solvent in the plug hole. Pull it over a bunch of times w/o firing with an old plug. Let it sit over night.
Pull that plug, spin it over to spray the Break-Free out and put a clean plug in, now fire it. Smoking should clear up and compression should come up a bit.
Give it a couple of changes over summer and it should be good to go
I use Super-Tech synthetic 5W-20 to clean the insides of old running motors. Works pretty good. A few changes and they are ready for annual oil which should be heavier to deal with the heat of running under load.
SAE 30 HD is prolly the best bet for longevity. But a good 10W30 will work OK. 15W-40 if they are consumers...
In my experience, they have been neglected. Often they have never had an oil change...
They are simple engines and are not hard on oil. But they need a reliable supply. SO get the old oil out. Put some lightweight oil in there. Say 5W-20 syn just to cleanse things. Fire it up and run it for a bit. Drain and now put the running oil in there.
If it smoked on the light stuff, the rings may be stuck (coked from old oil)... If so, use a big shot of Break-Free gun solvent in the plug hole. Pull it over a bunch of times w/o firing with an old plug. Let it sit over night.
Pull that plug, spin it over to spray the Break-Free out and put a clean plug in, now fire it. Smoking should clear up and compression should come up a bit.
Give it a couple of changes over summer and it should be good to go
I use Super-Tech synthetic 5W-20 to clean the insides of old running motors. Works pretty good. A few changes and they are ready for annual oil which should be heavier to deal with the heat of running under load.
SAE 30 HD is prolly the best bet for longevity. But a good 10W30 will work OK. 15W-40 if they are consumers...
FWIW, I've come to like thicker syns for splash lubed OPEs.
The old Tecumseh seemed to do well on M1 15W-50 which I tried a couple of years ago since I had an odd quart of it laying around.
The mower is now on Vavoline 4T syn 20W-50, three bucks a quart from AAP last spring.
These thicker oils seem to reduce consumption and they should be more resistant to heat than a conventional HD30 or 15W-40.
The old Tecumseh seemed to do well on M1 15W-50 which I tried a couple of years ago since I had an odd quart of it laying around.
The mower is now on Vavoline 4T syn 20W-50, three bucks a quart from AAP last spring.
These thicker oils seem to reduce consumption and they should be more resistant to heat than a conventional HD30 or 15W-40.
Well, the old oil looked like dark honey and no metal. The jug of PP SM grade 10w30 is probably going in the sump. This mower is a Bolens like the one I use at two rental properties and my own lawn. I have a older jug of M1 15w50 also. I put a new plug in it; as hot as its outside, I'll finish it up tomorrow after work. Thanks for all the replies
After about 25 minutes of mowing my push mower sounds like the engine speed has slowed a little.
Is it possible internal friction has increased due to the watery thin 30 weight oil? Hot straight 30 weight is watery when I drain it for an oil change.
Is it possible internal friction has increased due to the watery thin 30 weight oil? Hot straight 30 weight is watery when I drain it for an oil change.
Originally Posted By: jorton
After about 25 minutes of mowing my push mower sounds like the engine speed has slowed a little.
Is it possible internal friction has increased due to the watery thin 30 weight oil? Hot straight 30 weight is watery when I drain it for an oil change.
If the oil is full that is very unlikely. It most likely has to do with the carburetor or valves.
After about 25 minutes of mowing my push mower sounds like the engine speed has slowed a little.
Is it possible internal friction has increased due to the watery thin 30 weight oil? Hot straight 30 weight is watery when I drain it for an oil change.
If the oil is full that is very unlikely. It most likely has to do with the carburetor or valves.
Gang, since I have some WPP made Autozone Syn 10w30 and even some HD40 Autozone conventional(that was $1/qt) I'll use the Autozone syn in the old mower. Rebuild kit I found at a "town swap meet" and paid $10 for it
It would be a perfect place for the hd40.
I run synthetic 10w30 in my push mowers. One is 24 years old and just has a puff of smoke at startup. If it runs without burning/leaking too much oil, then use the good stuff in it. Mower engines are abused by being run in a harsh environment, so why not give them a little extra protection?
L8R,
Matt
L8R,
Matt
Originally Posted By: jorton
After about 25 minutes of mowing my push mower sounds like the engine speed has slowed a little.
Is it possible internal friction has increased due to the watery thin 30 weight oil? Hot straight 30 weight is watery when I drain it for an oil change.
Nonsense.
After about 25 minutes of mowing my push mower sounds like the engine speed has slowed a little.
Is it possible internal friction has increased due to the watery thin 30 weight oil? Hot straight 30 weight is watery when I drain it for an oil change.
Nonsense.
Back in 1991 I bought a 2YO Murray with a 5HP Briggs engine from a friend. The mower was used about 80 hours per year until 2014 when I sold my home and left the mower with the new owner. Once a year I changed the oil with any 30 weight automotive oil that was cheap and on sale and also cleaned the air filter. Every 3 to 5 years it got a new air filter and spark plug. The engine never burned oil or leaked a drop and still had plenty of power. I now have a new Husqvarna with a Honda engine and it will also get 30 weight but only Rotella.
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