Brake Fluid Exchange- Kia
- Thread starter FFFEMT
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I think most manufactures recommend 3 years for DOT-3 fluid and 2 years for DOT-4 fluid.
Some manufactures neglect in brake fluid exchange recommendation.
You may be able to extend brake fluid replacement to 4-5 years if your area isn't too humid.
Some manufactures neglect in brake fluid exchange recommendation.
You may be able to extend brake fluid replacement to 4-5 years if your area isn't too humid.
Had original fluid in mine til last year when i had it changed... Never an issue.
I doubt the mileage is relevant though. A time-based change interval makes more sense. 3 years seems reasonable but now I'd cut it to 2 here because its so humid.
Academic for the present since (probably because the brake fluid's not been changed) I've had several repairs to do on the braking system, have one pending and probably more to come, so brake fluid change is being forced.
Academic for the present since (probably because the brake fluid's not been changed) I've had several repairs to do on the braking system, have one pending and probably more to come, so brake fluid change is being forced.
You see that's what dumbfounds me that most makes don't list changing the brake fluid in the owner's manual. German brands are more particular in maintenance and I try to use their maintenance schedules for my vehicles.
I thought I was crazy doing this to the 02 Chevy Silverado. It's not listed in the service manual but the BMW E46 lists brake fluid change and used whats leftover and an extra bottle in the truck:
I thought I was crazy doing this to the 02 Chevy Silverado. It's not listed in the service manual but the BMW E46 lists brake fluid change and used whats leftover and an extra bottle in the truck:
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I get my dot 3/4 change whenever I replace brakes and rotors. Changing fluids cheaper than components.
Depends who you talk to, and who made it.
Friends' Ferrari has an all caps warning to change brake fluid every year to prevent corrosion of the brake system.
Brake fluid is very hygroscopic. You'd be amazed how much boiling point you can lose in fluid that "looks good".
Friends' Ferrari has an all caps warning to change brake fluid every year to prevent corrosion of the brake system.
Brake fluid is very hygroscopic. You'd be amazed how much boiling point you can lose in fluid that "looks good".
Well, actually that was my point. I just don't know the history of the fluid and I don't know if the previous owner mixed something in it or left it open or whatnot.
How much is a bottle of brake liquid that'll give you peace of mind while slowing down from 80 mph?
I just don't know how to flush it, otherwise I'll just purchase a bottle of Motul RBF600 and pour it in. Even though probably that's an overkill for me.
Not that I drive in situations that'll need repeated braking; mostly rural areas but when the rear ones need to be serviced I'll have it changed just to have peace of mind.
How much is a bottle of brake liquid that'll give you peace of mind while slowing down from 80 mph?
I just don't know how to flush it, otherwise I'll just purchase a bottle of Motul RBF600 and pour it in. Even though probably that's an overkill for me.
Not that I drive in situations that'll need repeated braking; mostly rural areas but when the rear ones need to be serviced I'll have it changed just to have peace of mind.
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I don't know when (or if) my brake fluid was changed before I bought the car, which is 30 years old, so potentially an extreme case.
The system was full of rusty sludge. So far, I've had a foot-to-the floor brake failure which I attribute to boiling brake fluid. I've replaced one wheel cylinder, (the other one is weeping) and rebuilt one brake caliper. Basically the whole system needs rebuilt/replaced, and ideally I'd replace the steel brake pipes (which look OK externally), with copper, though I don't know if that'll be possible here.
I always used to leave fluid change until I had to work on the brakes, but this car has convinced me regular fluid changes are a good idea.
Its worth pointing out that, in my experience, once you get gunk in the system, flushing does NOT get it out, but early fluid change should stop it happening in the first place.
Flushing is easy. If you don't want to pay the dealer to do it, don't pay the dealer to do it. But do it.
The system was full of rusty sludge. So far, I've had a foot-to-the floor brake failure which I attribute to boiling brake fluid. I've replaced one wheel cylinder, (the other one is weeping) and rebuilt one brake caliper. Basically the whole system needs rebuilt/replaced, and ideally I'd replace the steel brake pipes (which look OK externally), with copper, though I don't know if that'll be possible here.
I always used to leave fluid change until I had to work on the brakes, but this car has convinced me regular fluid changes are a good idea.
Its worth pointing out that, in my experience, once you get gunk in the system, flushing does NOT get it out, but early fluid change should stop it happening in the first place.
Flushing is easy. If you don't want to pay the dealer to do it, don't pay the dealer to do it. But do it.
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I scheduled an oil change at the dealer for my 2012 Kia Sorento and requested a brake fluid flush at the same time. I got an email from the service manager asking what was wrong with the brakes. It's not a scheduled item. Having said that, I performed a turkey baster exchange of the reservoir. It seemed to firm up the pedal response.
How does just taking out what's in the reservoir help when all the junk is in the calipers and lines?
It doesn't.
Doing a system-wide flush is a pain if you don't have the right equipment (I don't). Brake shops have machines that force new fluid in, forcing the old fluid out the opened caliper bleeders.
I did a flush on my '74 Beetle, it REALLY helps if you have a helper to sit in the car and pump the pedal for you.
Start on the wheel right rear wheel and work your way to up to the left front. Open the bleeder, have your helper push the pedal to the floor, close the bleeder. Pump the pedal to rebuild pressure. Repeat..and repeat...and repeat, until the fluid runs clear out all the calipers. Top off the master cylinder, and you're good to go.
Replacing just what's in the master cylinder just makes your master cylinder happy.
Doing a system-wide flush is a pain if you don't have the right equipment (I don't). Brake shops have machines that force new fluid in, forcing the old fluid out the opened caliper bleeders.
I did a flush on my '74 Beetle, it REALLY helps if you have a helper to sit in the car and pump the pedal for you.
Start on the wheel right rear wheel and work your way to up to the left front. Open the bleeder, have your helper push the pedal to the floor, close the bleeder. Pump the pedal to rebuild pressure. Repeat..and repeat...and repeat, until the fluid runs clear out all the calipers. Top off the master cylinder, and you're good to go.
Replacing just what's in the master cylinder just makes your master cylinder happy.
I will flush out my fluid every time I do my brakes which tends to be 3-5 years. I drive in bad traffic most of the time.
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
It doesn't.
It might. Depends on some unknowns, like what is meant by junk. If it means water, depends on where it gets in. The reservoir is vented so the fluid in it can absorb water. I've seen it claimed it also gets in by diffusion through brake hoses. Replacing the fluid in the reservoir will help protect your master cylinder, which is an expensive item. There was plenty of rusty sludge in the bottom of my reservoir.
Whether it'll do good elsewhere depends on the rate of diffusion of the water along the brake pipes. I've never seen any data on the distribution of water through the system, so I don't know, but since flushing the whole system is easy, its better to do it.
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
Doing a system-wide flush is a pain if you don't have the right equipment (I don't). Brake shops have machines that force new fluid in, forcing the old fluid out the opened caliper bleeders.
I use a 60ml enema syringe. Costs less than a US dollar. Or you could use gravity, which is freely available on a planet near you.
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
I did a flush on my '74 Beetle, it REALLY helps if you have a helper to sit in the car and pump the pedal for you.
Not necessary, and can cause you to..
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
...have your helper push the pedal to the floor
...which is risky on an old car because it takes the master cylinder piston beyond its normal range of travel, where it might encounter corrosion, and get its seals damaged.
It doesn't.
It might. Depends on some unknowns, like what is meant by junk. If it means water, depends on where it gets in. The reservoir is vented so the fluid in it can absorb water. I've seen it claimed it also gets in by diffusion through brake hoses. Replacing the fluid in the reservoir will help protect your master cylinder, which is an expensive item. There was plenty of rusty sludge in the bottom of my reservoir.
Whether it'll do good elsewhere depends on the rate of diffusion of the water along the brake pipes. I've never seen any data on the distribution of water through the system, so I don't know, but since flushing the whole system is easy, its better to do it.
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
Doing a system-wide flush is a pain if you don't have the right equipment (I don't). Brake shops have machines that force new fluid in, forcing the old fluid out the opened caliper bleeders.
I use a 60ml enema syringe. Costs less than a US dollar. Or you could use gravity, which is freely available on a planet near you.
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
I did a flush on my '74 Beetle, it REALLY helps if you have a helper to sit in the car and pump the pedal for you.
Not necessary, and can cause you to..
Originally Posted By: WylieCoyote
...have your helper push the pedal to the floor
...which is risky on an old car because it takes the master cylinder piston beyond its normal range of travel, where it might encounter corrosion, and get its seals damaged.
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And that's why I'm having my mechanic do it!
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