Thanks all for the advice. After doing some more homework I went with Amsoil Euro(AFL) 5W-40 & a WIX XP standard length filter. I plan on doing a UOA and will post up the results.
'99 Trans Am LS1 oil recommendation (Phoenix)
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Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
You are correct, it has no certifications.
I appreciate the well-written response, but you're really just making my point for me here; every forum out there that involves an engine (be it cars, boats, tractors, etc.) has some favorite, well-regarded oil. However, when you make a request as I did earlier...
I'd love to see data/evidence supporting the position that a stock LS in anything resembling normal usage needs something beyond a dexos1 5w-30.
...there's nothing brought forth that supports any claims. That continues to be the case here.
We're in agreement that the Gibbs stuff is a quality product -- there's just simply no evidence to say that it's actually needed in an application such as this.
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
The updated LL-01 certification incorporates a new N20 engine test, which is regarded as the toughest amongst the euro carmakers.
What? There's a lot of guesswork and theory going on as it relates to LL-01, but merely changing from N52 to N20 is an internal BMW thing.
You are correct, it has no certifications.
I appreciate the well-written response, but you're really just making my point for me here; every forum out there that involves an engine (be it cars, boats, tractors, etc.) has some favorite, well-regarded oil. However, when you make a request as I did earlier...
I'd love to see data/evidence supporting the position that a stock LS in anything resembling normal usage needs something beyond a dexos1 5w-30.
...there's nothing brought forth that supports any claims. That continues to be the case here.
We're in agreement that the Gibbs stuff is a quality product -- there's just simply no evidence to say that it's actually needed in an application such as this.
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
The updated LL-01 certification incorporates a new N20 engine test, which is regarded as the toughest amongst the euro carmakers.
What? There's a lot of guesswork and theory going on as it relates to LL-01, but merely changing from N52 to N20 is an internal BMW thing.
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
They know the LS engine better than probably any oil company.
And WHAT about them gives them this superior "knowledge", their affiliation with Toyoda Racing??
I would put Red Line's 5W-30 up against the Gibbs product ANY day of the week (or month, year, etc.), and with it's high 3.7 HTHSV, it would stand up very well to the op's desert heat conditions.
It also has a very low NOACK, IF that means anything at all.
They know the LS engine better than probably any oil company.
And WHAT about them gives them this superior "knowledge", their affiliation with Toyoda Racing??
I would put Red Line's 5W-30 up against the Gibbs product ANY day of the week (or month, year, etc.), and with it's high 3.7 HTHSV, it would stand up very well to the op's desert heat conditions.
It also has a very low NOACK, IF that means anything at all.
Originally Posted By: CPM10V
Thanks all for the advice. After doing some more homework I went with Amsoil Euro(AFL) 5W-40 & a WIX XP standard length filter. I plan on doing a UOA and will post up the results.
It's hard to tell from their PDS on this oil, but IF it actually IS a low, or mid SAPS product, you don't need either of those ratings, even with the stock/factory catcons on the car.
I would rather have a FULL SAPS oil in my LS1, especially with some miles on it.
Thanks all for the advice. After doing some more homework I went with Amsoil Euro(AFL) 5W-40 & a WIX XP standard length filter. I plan on doing a UOA and will post up the results.
It's hard to tell from their PDS on this oil, but IF it actually IS a low, or mid SAPS product, you don't need either of those ratings, even with the stock/factory catcons on the car.
I would rather have a FULL SAPS oil in my LS1, especially with some miles on it.
My LS1 had nothing but M1 5w30 for it's first 150k miles, then I went on a search for the "best" oil, and have run M1 5w30 HM, Redline 5w30, GC 0w30, Driven LS30, PU 5w30, 50/50 mix of M1 5w30 HM/0w40 EF, 50/50 mix of PU 5w30/PUE 5w40, 50/50 mix of M1 0w20 EP/0w40 EF.
Now at 250k miles, it still has the same cold start piston slap it had a zero miles, but no other noises in it. It has high oil consumption, though, about 1qt/2000 miles. It used to have low consumption, about 1qt/6000 miles, but has been trending up since 200k. I have a stash of PU 5w30 and PUE 5w40, which I use as summer mix for track days. The only oil I ever ran in the engine which seemed to make a noticeable change in its behavior was M1 5w30 HM. When I switched from regular M1 at 150k, the oil consumption decreased from 1qt/5000 to 1qt/6000. It had similar oil consumption on Redline, though.
And the engine has not had an easy life. It has been tracked every year since I bought it, accumulating maybe 180 hours of track time. I have overheated it badly (260F pegged the gauge) one time, and to about 230F 4 or 5 other times. It just keeps coming back for more.
Now at 250k miles, it still has the same cold start piston slap it had a zero miles, but no other noises in it. It has high oil consumption, though, about 1qt/2000 miles. It used to have low consumption, about 1qt/6000 miles, but has been trending up since 200k. I have a stash of PU 5w30 and PUE 5w40, which I use as summer mix for track days. The only oil I ever ran in the engine which seemed to make a noticeable change in its behavior was M1 5w30 HM. When I switched from regular M1 at 150k, the oil consumption decreased from 1qt/5000 to 1qt/6000. It had similar oil consumption on Redline, though.
And the engine has not had an easy life. It has been tracked every year since I bought it, accumulating maybe 180 hours of track time. I have overheated it badly (260F pegged the gauge) one time, and to about 230F 4 or 5 other times. It just keeps coming back for more.
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Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
You are correct, it has no certifications. Driven (Joe Gibbs Racing) is not in the business of that. What I do know is that they utilize probably one of the best base stocks out there, mPAO, the same base oil they use in their XP line of racing oils. I don't know of any other company using that as the primary base oil. Sub 6% NOACK, no need for VIIs, etc. They have an incredible reputation with just about any product they sell (check out DT40's reputation on the Rennlist forums). They know the LS engine better than probably any oil company.
Their Quality Control isn't that good in the couple of VOAs posted recently...more than one isn't even in the right Kinematic Viscosity range for the claimed grade.
You are correct, it has no certifications. Driven (Joe Gibbs Racing) is not in the business of that. What I do know is that they utilize probably one of the best base stocks out there, mPAO, the same base oil they use in their XP line of racing oils. I don't know of any other company using that as the primary base oil. Sub 6% NOACK, no need for VIIs, etc. They have an incredible reputation with just about any product they sell (check out DT40's reputation on the Rennlist forums). They know the LS engine better than probably any oil company.
Their Quality Control isn't that good in the couple of VOAs posted recently...more than one isn't even in the right Kinematic Viscosity range for the claimed grade.
Sounds like another boutique oil to me made from unicorn tears.
Also, all internal combustion engines for automotive use are pretty much the same more or less. So, if you don't have the funds or want to get api or manufacturer approvals like the proven oils from mobil, Castrol, pennzoil, etc then they aren't going in my car.
Also, all internal combustion engines for automotive use are pretty much the same more or less. So, if you don't have the funds or want to get api or manufacturer approvals like the proven oils from mobil, Castrol, pennzoil, etc then they aren't going in my car.
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