Update on Acura 3.7L Block replacement

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 7, 2011
Messages
394
Location
CT USA
Had the short block and intake valve guide seals replaced approximately 2K miles ago due to excessive oil consumption.
Still have no idea why the original block failed. I was able to look at the removed block. Dark black carbon on the piston crowns and coked rings. Acura mechanic stated all oil burners look like this. I followed the owner's manual faithfully with the original engine and after break in used 5W-20 synthetic oil religiously with 15% on the MM.

Took a different tack with this one. Following a bit of research I came upon what I would name the "high cylinder pressure" break in technique. Some have called it the "hard" break in technique, but I think it is a misnomer.
Supposedly the majority of ring seating takes place within the first 20 miles!
Picked up the car after engine replacement. Drove very conservatively until the engine was completely warmed up. On an empty, long road, place the engine in S mode and slowly accelerated until the RPMs were at approximately 4500 and held it there for several minutes before backing off the accelerator and allowing for engine braking. Did this for multiple repetitions. Rest of the time until 100 miles, drove only in S mode after the car was thoroughly warmed up which held the RPMs between 5 and 6K most of the time. Good alternation between high cylinder pressures with acceleration and deceleration.

Changed the initial oil at 100 miles using Valvoline conventional oil 5W-30 for 500 miles. Drove mostly in S mode after warm up with this oil change. Change oil again with Mobil 1 0W-40 and Mobil 1 oil filter. Will change at 4K intervals to try to reduce the likelyhood of oil coking the rings (again)

So far, 2K on the Mobil 1 0w-40 and not down a drop!
 
I've heard of this technique before, should work.

The low tension rings that OEM's are using are getting better CAFE numbers at the higher risk of oil burning engines. You'd think the oil burning would be much worse for our air than using 1% more fuel?
 
Don't know about that technique - sound suspicious. Sounds like a ring toaster.

You failure was likely do to your engine sucking in junk from the close-coupled cats - Just like the Accord 4 cylinders. This is a combo of VVT using cam phasing for EGR and the fact the cats are too close and we still run metal compounds (ash when burnt) in our motor oil.
Those shorty slipper skirt pistons don't help either. Seems like MANY manufacturers mseem to be going through this. Our Subaru is under a class action for oil burning.
 
Well....
If this technique is a "ring toaster" then what is done is done. I guess I won't know for a while.

As for the first 2K, the engine is nice and oil tight! I will keep everyone posted, good, bad or just plain ugly.
 
Honda is having problems with ring issues ..Someone tht worked in my engine shop until i sold it last year now works for a Honda dealer doing engines all day every day. He claims there are oil burning issues and other problems with engines under warranty.

I always broke my new engines in hard and never had a problem with any of them. I watched the car jockeys move around brand new cars and they were beating them and punching them going from one lot to another at full throttle.. Most vehicles when new get abused anyway.
 
Good luck with your experiment. I've owned several Acuras and Hondas (1990, 1996, 1998, 2000 and 2007) and never had any engine issue at all. You must be PO'd that you got this result from a car at that price point.

I hope Honda gets its act together before the word (and the engine damage) spreads even more.
 
Your style of break-in is exactly what I've done on the (few) engines I've rebuilt/re-ringed, lock it in a lower gear, take it up to 4-5000 RPM, engine brake back down to 1000 RPM or below. None of my rebuilds ever had oil consumption problems, even when I used synthetic instead of dino oil to break in.
 
Originally Posted By: KGMtech
The low tension rings that OEM's are using are getting better CAFE numbers at the higher risk of oil burning engines. You'd think the oil burning would be much worse for our air than using 1% more fuel?

Planning for the life of the vehicle rather than just original condition testing would make too much sense. Besides, it just becomes a problem for the vehicle owner at smog time.
wink.gif
 
4K mile update.

Getting ready to change the oil for the fourth time.

First oil change was 100 miles after the engine block replacement and "high cylinder pressure" break in.
Second oil change was after the next 500 miles. Valvoline conventional 5w-30 to help remove any shed metals.
Third oil change is Mobil 1 0w-40 for 4K miles. Absolutely no oil consumption!! At least for now this engine is a keeper. Will be continuing 4K mile interval oil changes with either Mobil 1 or Castrol 0w-40.
 
Originally Posted By: Tosh
Stop wasting oil. 4k oci is about 1/3 the miles I get from an oil change in my 3.2CL-S.


I think this engine may be a lot harder on oil than the 3.2. Already went through one block due to oil consumption. Oil is cheap insurance.
 
Originally Posted By: Tosh
Stop wasting oil. 4k oci is about 1/3 the miles I get from an oil change in my 3.2CL-S.


Thanks for saying that, I was thinking that earlier when I first saw the post. There's another thread where a guy has done three oci's over 4k miles because he thinks a truck has varnish in it. He hasn't even pulled the valve covers.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Originally Posted By: Tosh
Stop wasting oil. 4k oci is about 1/3 the miles I get from an oil change in my 3.2CL-S.


Thanks for saying that, I was thinking that earlier when I first saw the post. There's another thread where a guy has done three oci's over 4k miles because he thinks a truck has varnish in it. He hasn't even pulled the valve covers.


For the 70K miles (prior to the block replacement)I followed the oil life monitor replacing the oil at 6.5-7K miles with various 5w-20 synthetic oils. You can see how well that worked.....
 
Originally Posted By: MajorCavalry
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Originally Posted By: Tosh
Stop wasting oil. 4k oci is about 1/3 the miles I get from an oil change in my 3.2CL-S.


Thanks for saying that, I was thinking that earlier when I first saw the post. There's another thread where a guy has done three oci's over 4k miles because he thinks a truck has varnish in it. He hasn't even pulled the valve covers.


For the 70K miles (prior to the block replacement)I followed the oil life monitor replacing the oil at 6.5-7K miles with various 5w-20 synthetic oils. You can see how well that worked.....


Just bad luck.....

I use conventional 5w20 and 5w30 every 5k-7k as prior owner did and have 150k trouble free miles on 2007 MDX with likely same 3.7V6. This last go around it consumed 3/4 quart over 6.5k miles.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You failure was likely do to your engine sucking in junk from the close-coupled cats - Just like the Accord 4 cylinders. This is a combo of VVT using cam phasing for EGR and the fact the cats are too close and we still run metal compounds (ash when burnt) in our motor oil.


Honda's V-6 doesn't use cam phasing. The only valve adjustment that happens is the transition from the "small" cam lobes to the "big" cam lobes.
 
Originally Posted By: madRiver


Just bad luck.....

I use conventional 5w20 and 5w30 every 5k-7k as prior owner did and have 150k trouble free miles on 2007 MDX with likely same 3.7V6. This last go around it consumed 3/4 quart over 6.5k miles.


I dont believe they used VCM on that one.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top