Valvoline All Climate vs VR1

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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
You prolly want to read this thread and the attached article. Seems that the Euro refiners are not all that good at hitting their cold flow pour points. Better than the Chinese, but not real great as far as I can see...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...er_the_c#UNREAD

I'd be looking for oils that are well favored by the Scandinavians as working well in winter and summer...


You serious?

Check the OP's location.

Plus that article doesn't reference cold flow pour points AT ALL, as far as I can see.
 
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I wouldn't be sure.

Just last year I heard about a local farm tractor where the oil had turned to gel (at normal summer temperatures). Alas I didn't hear about the cause, could've been a coolant/oil mix or could have been the gelation effect described above.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
You prolly want to read this thread and the attached article. Seems that the Euro refiners are not all that good at hitting their cold flow pour points. Better than the Chinese, but not real great as far as I can see...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...er_the_c#UNREAD

I'd be looking for oils that are well favored by the Scandinavians as working well in winter and summer...


Paper from 07, interesting but irrelevant. Even in 2007 people used 15w and 10w( affected grades) only in older vehicles, and in hotter climates. Guys up north always used thinner oils, these are Mediterranean only lubes.
 
Originally Posted By: chrisri
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
You prolly want to read this thread and the attached article. Seems that the Euro refiners are not all that good at hitting their cold flow pour points. Better than the Chinese, but not real great as far as I can see...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...er_the_c#UNREAD

I'd be looking for oils that are well favored by the Scandinavians as working well in winter and summer...



Paper from 07, interesting but irrelevant. Even in 2007 people used 15w and 10w( affected grades) only in older vehicles, and in hotter climates. Guys up north always used thinner oils, these are Mediterranean only lubes.

i can confirm that
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I dunno if Maxlife is avaiable over there? But, it's the go-to oil for less than ground pounder engines with big cams. Anything OEM or mildly hopped up can easily run Maxlife (red bottle) and be happy for ever
smile.gif


It's known as VR-1 jr around here as it has a robust add-pak, just not quite as much ZDDP
laugh.gif



VR1 jr. for MaxLife, good name. The only MaxLife we get in Oz is the semi-synthetic 20W-50, but I think it's one of the best commonly avaliable 20W-50 around.

FCD, you know the VR1 is one of Valvoline's best products, and well respected. If you have the $ then buy this.

However, the All-Climate is a A3/B3 20W-50 from Valvoline, and your cam is stock and well worn in, so this should work fine in your car and save you a few $.

Depends on how rich you feel and how much you want VR1 bragging rights.
 
For the way in which you use this car and the frequency with which you change the oil, VWB is all you really need.
This thing is on the stock cam and is well worn in, so it doesn't really need more ZDDP.
Do your wallet a favor and keep the extra Euros in it.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
I wouldn't be sure.

Just last year I heard about a local farm tractor where the oil had turned to gel (at normal summer temperatures). Alas I didn't hear about the cause, could've been a coolant/oil mix or could have been the gelation effect described above.


That gelation is an extreme low temperature long duration effect, so no, it could not.
 
Originally Posted By: chrisri
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
You prolly want to read this thread and the attached article. Seems that the Euro refiners are not all that good at hitting their cold flow pour points. Better than the Chinese, but not real great as far as I can see...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...er_the_c#UNREAD

I'd be looking for oils that are well favored by the Scandinavians as working well in winter and summer...


Paper from 07, interesting but irrelevant. Even in 2007 people used 15w and 10w( affected grades) only in older vehicles, and in hotter climates. Guys up north always used thinner oils, these are Mediterranean only lubes.


They claim their sample roughly represents the oils in use. If your interpretation were correct, that would seem to imply that about 80% of European oils were "Mediterranean oils" (see Fig 7).

Sadly, even in these climate-changed days, speaking as a sort-of-ex-European I don't find that very plausible.
 
My point in pointing out the paper is that maybe the Euro Refiners are not hitting multiple targets... So due diligence is needed in finding the best product vs cost.

I know there are some very stout BBC's built for drag racing in Norway. Those boys know a thing of two about oils that work, and especially when the nip hits the air...

There must be hot-rod clubs all over Europe? I know there are in Holland with guys building flat tappet cam'd motors that run very well. they will have the oil situation figured out
smile.gif


I know Total, Enos, Ravenol and Motul all make very good products. I don't know if they fit your needs or not ...
 
Well i don't think i'm gonna research that much anymore my plan is stocking up on VR1 and Motorcraft filters and call it a day
smile.gif
why research further when i've already found an oil perfect for my application
 
What do you guys call a "heavily loaded" FT valve train?
Anything less than .375" lobe lift X 1.7 rocker, .843" non-direct lube lifters,
and springs with 150 lbs seat pressure ain't heavily loaded.
I'll put VII free viscosity before AW additives any day of the week.
Good ol' CI-4+ 15w40, or a single grade SAE30 or 40 like Delo or Mobil 1600's is all you need.
Get oil flow to your valve train, roller or FT, with spray bars on the valve springs. The oil runs down onto the cam.
Direct lube lifters put oil directly onto the lobes.
Most cams are lost during break-in, because guys hold the revs up and over heat the oil in a very short time frame.
There goes viscosity, and there goes the camshaft.
 
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
I wouldn't be sure.

Just last year I heard about a local farm tractor where the oil had turned to gel (at normal summer temperatures). Alas I didn't hear about the cause, could've been a coolant/oil mix or could have been the gelation effect described above.


That gelation is an extreme low temperature long duration effect, so no, it could not.


If you read the paper, you'll notice gelation started at +20°C in some oils...
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: chrisri
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
You prolly want to read this thread and the attached article. Seems that the Euro refiners are not all that good at hitting their cold flow pour points. Better than the Chinese, but not real great as far as I can see...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...er_the_c#UNREAD

I'd be looking for oils that are well favored by the Scandinavians as working well in winter and summer...


Paper from 07, interesting but irrelevant. Even in 2007 people used 15w and 10w( affected grades) only in older vehicles, and in hotter climates. Guys up north always used thinner oils, these are Mediterranean only lubes.


They claim their sample roughly represents the oils in use. If your interpretation were correct, that would seem to imply that about 80% of European oils were "Mediterranean oils" (see Fig 7).

Sadly, even in these climate-changed days, speaking as a sort-of-ex-European I don't find that very plausible.


a lot of it could be HDEO or lawnmower oil. 10w40 or 15w40 is getting tough to find...
 
Around here, 10w40 is all you can easily find in stores right now.
Of course shops dedicated to selling oil will sell you any flavour you'd like.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: chrisri
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
You prolly want to read this thread and the attached article. Seems that the Euro refiners are not all that good at hitting their cold flow pour points. Better than the Chinese, but not real great as far as I can see...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...er_the_c#UNREAD

I'd be looking for oils that are well favored by the Scandinavians as working well in winter and summer...


Paper from 07, interesting but irrelevant. Even in 2007 people used 15w and 10w( affected grades) only in older vehicles, and in hotter climates. Guys up north always used thinner oils, these are Mediterranean only lubes.


They claim their sample roughly represents the oils in use. If your interpretation were correct, that would seem to imply that about 80% of European oils were "Mediterranean oils" (see Fig 7).

Sadly, even in these climate-changed days, speaking as a sort-of-ex-European I don't find that very plausible.


Hmm...Suppose that should be sort-of-ex-ex-European now.

"Interesting times" as the Chinese are supposed to say.
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
What do you guys call a "heavily loaded" FT valve train?
Anything less than .375" lobe lift X 1.7 rocker, .843" non-direct lube lifters,
and springs with 150 lbs seat pressure ain't heavily loaded.
I'll put VII free viscosity before AW additives any day of the week.
Good ol' CI-4+ 15w40, or a single grade SAE30 or 40 like Delo or Mobil 1600's is all you need.
Get oil flow to your valve train, roller or FT, with spray bars on the valve springs. The oil runs down onto the cam.
Direct lube lifters put oil directly onto the lobes.
Most cams are lost during break-in, because guys hold the revs up and over heat the oil in a very short time frame.
There goes viscosity, and there goes the camshaft.


My Big Block has 0.375 x 1.7 (0.638) 310/320 270/280 (0.050) on 108 Solid Flat Tappet with 2.25 Intakes. Springs are 153/355 and I've always used 20W50 VR1. Might not be required but it runs pretty loose clearances and It gives me that warm fuzzy feeling.

Pushes a 2870 lb car 9.0's.
 
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