Grinding noise when shifting into 2nd

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'll add to the Redline MT90 recommendation. Honestly,it's a magical fluid. Whatever they did in formulating it,they got it right on. Cheapest place I've ever seen it is eBay. Look for an eBay seller with 100% feedback and buy it there.
 
Sounds like the synchronizer to me also. Shift more slowly into 2nd gear and it will last a very long time.
 
It's been making this noise for a LOONG time now, and it doesn't seem to get worse, it also doesn't sound too loud, so i will wait and if it gets worse, i will get the synchroe replaced
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette

Didn't we decide that modern gl5 stuff doesn't bother yellow metals? Ive used a number of different gl4 and gl5 stuff and can't tell any difference in shifting.



I sure didn't. Corrosion test results I've seen seem to indicate that many GL-5 fluids at least start out with the corrosion fairly well controlled, but that's going to deteriorate over time and use. Some GL-5 fluids show corrosion immediately. But the kicker is that there's no NEED or any positive benefit for a GL-5 fluid in an application that doesn't contain hypoid gears, so my contention is that GL-5 NEVER belongs in a rear-drive sychromesh gearbox unless its explicitly recommended.
 
Yeah GL-5 seems to really only be needed in places where there are no yellow metals and places where you have hypoid gears such as the diff, i'll keep using GL4 , even though my owner's manual does not mention any GL-X spec
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
It's been making this noise for a LOONG time now, and it doesn't seem to get worse, it also doesn't sound too loud, so i will wait and if it gets worse, i will get the synchroe replaced


The synchronizer is not what is making the noise. It is the gears themselves, the worn synchronizers are not working properly so cannot match shaft speeds when you shift rapidly. Shifting more slowly will allow the worn synchronizer to match the speeds and get rid of the noise.
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
No that is not an option you would have to give me some serious drugs to do that.
Yeah the synchronizer is what most people say.i'll change the fluid for now, and pray lol
i can get a recon 5 speed gearbox for around 1200 Euro


Does that (Cologne??) V-6 bolt right up to any of the Tremec T5 variants?

Also; as far as I can remember, my 1976 US spec, 2.8 V-6, 4 speed manual, "Black Cat" Capri II did NOT have a hydraulic master cylinder actuated throw out bearing/slave, but had a cable with a Mustang-like 'quadrant' set up.

Were the Euro spec cars different in this regard, since everyone keeps mentioning clutch hydraulics??
 
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Besides a fluid change, make it a habit of rev matching and double clutching when going down into 2nd gear. And it wouldn't hurt to do that on the up-shift to 2nd either. That will put the least amount of wear and tear on your 2nd gear synchros. I'd also choose the fluid that is exactly specced for your transmisison - as the friction modifiers for synchronization are more important at this point than anything for gear/bearing wear.


Your syncros are shot. Double clutch both down and up. With a little practice it is very easy. I ran a Geo Metro to 186K double clutching the last 50K because of a bad second gear syncro.
 
Sure i'll start double clutching, i only do about 1200 Mi a year , but i will get it replaced .
Nope this is not the 2.8L Cologne this is the Essex 3.0L engine that was only available in Europe and i don't think you can get a T5 to bolt up to it.
And yes mine does not have a hydraulic clutch but a cable operated manual one
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top