'88 Cadillac smog (Emission test) fails

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Originally Posted By: momo

I am not familiar with E-30, from where I get it and does it harm the engine if stay too long?


e-30 is a mix of gas and 30% alcohol. Its not good for older cars at all but if you have just enough to emission test , then fill and dilute with regular fuel, you should be fine. If you don't find e-30, find some e-85 and do the math to mix with regular fuel to get to 30%. Do not try an run e-85 it won't run right at all in that car. Worst comes to worst see if your local hardware home deopot has a gallon of denatured alcohol. If your tank is almost out, 1 gallon of denatured with about 4 gallons of regular fuel( usually 10% ethanol) should get you close.

you still will have to address the plugs wires, cap rotor. Even with the above fuel mix, you will fail if these parts are not up to snuff.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: momo
For those who are wondering about other numbers from the emission test, here it is

Emission_test.png


Since you're not me, and are a cheapskate

---

But you need to remember, you're cheap.

BC.


Although you made a good observation, but you fail to be a decent man. You have to be respectful. I asked here the experts for an advice ONLY.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: momo

I am not familiar with E-30, from where I get it and does it harm the engine if stay too long?


e-30 is a mix of gas and 30% alcohol. Its not good for older cars at all but if you have just enough to emission test , then fill and dilute with regular fuel, you should be fine. If you don't find e-30, find some e-85 and do the math to mix with regular fuel to get to 30%. Do not try an run e-85 it won't run right at all in that car. Worst comes to worst see if your local hardware home deopot has a gallon of denatured alcohol. If your tank is almost out, 1 gallon of denatured with about 4 gallons of regular fuel( usually 10% ethanol) should get you close.

you still will have to address the plugs wires, cap rotor. Even with the above fuel mix, you will fail if these parts are not up to snuff.


Again thanks for your response spasm3. It helped me a lot. I also decide to make things easier by fixing the whole ignition system.
I priced the following items plus taxes:
1- Spark Plugs ($30)
2- Champion Spark Plugs Wire Set ($56)
3- BWD Distributor Cap ($35)
4- Distributor Rotor ($23)
5- O2 sensor ($32.99)

I am wondering if I need to replace EGR sensor?
 
Right now you can get these parts from rock auto.

Belden spark plug wire set. $5.92

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,ignition,spark+plug+wire,7224?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

Autolite spark plugs $0.71 each.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,ignition,spark+plug,7212?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

Distributor cap a/c delco $10.71 some are cheaper , but the ac is a good price.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,ignition,distributor+cap,7120?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

Distributor rotor, a/c delco $2.99 some are cheaper again a good buy.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,ignition,distributor+rotor,7136?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

if you needed an 02 sensor ( i'm not sure you do) but for $10.48 a denso
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,emission,oxygen+%28o2%29+sensor,5132?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

$25.30 for tuneup parts, another $10.48 for an o2 sensor( i'd wait on that)
Plus shipping and tax.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Right now you can get these parts from rock auto.

Belden spark plug wire set. $5.92

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,ignition,spark+plug+wire,7224?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

Autolite spark plugs $0.71 each.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,ignition,spark+plug,7212?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

Distributor cap a/c delco $10.71 some are cheaper , but the ac is a good price.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,ignition,distributor+cap,7120?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

Distributor rotor, a/c delco $2.99 some are cheaper again a good buy.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,ignition,distributor+rotor,7136?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

if you needed an 02 sensor ( i'm not sure you do) but for $10.48 a denso
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1988,brougham,5.0l+307cid+v8,1027145,emission,oxygen+%28o2%29+sensor,5132?a=Referer+r.search.yahoo.com+URL+%2F

$25.30 for tuneup parts, another $10.48 for an o2 sensor( i'd wait on that)
Plus shipping and tax.



Thank you very much, spasm3. I really appreciate that. I am going to order them right now.
 
Update:

Check engine light was on for about 2 minutes then gone. It keeps showing whenever I stopped in traffic light for 2 minutes
 
Originally Posted By: momo
Although you made a good observation, but you fail to be a decent man. You have to be respectful. I asked here the experts for an advice ONLY.


I have given you advice, in very easy to follow steps.
I have given you advice about what parts to replace and test, in a logical order.
I have also made factual statements about your lack of desire to spend the money needed to properly repair a car. That is called being cheap. It is also ill advised.

Since my post, you have changed your mind on buying parts.
I still believe you should inspect the current parts first to see what their condition is.
It might be worthwhile to pull the spark plugs to see if one or more of them are fouled. It would help you to know if you're dealing with fuel, oil, or carbon fouling on the plugs before buying parts.

Also, it might be worth your while to access the check engine light codes to see what faults the car is reporting. That might give you even more insight into what could be causing the problem.

Finally, an ignition coil should be a strong consideration in your parts list.

You haven't mentioned if the engine is running smoothly or if it is missing and hesitating while you are driving it. Does it seem like it is down on power?

BC.
 
[/quote]

You haven't mentioned if the engine is running smoothly or if it is missing and hesitating while you are driving it. Does it seem like it is down on power?

BC. [/quote]

The car runs perfect and there is no hesitation except that I was parking the car uphill after a long trip then I went to buy something from a grocery store and when I turned the car on, it stalled for several times till I gave it very good pump on the gas pedal.
 
Originally Posted By: momo
Update:

Check engine light was on for about 2 minutes then gone. It keeps showing whenever I stopped in traffic light for 2 minutes


We will need to know that code. Is there an autozone near you that can read it for you?
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: momo
Update:

Check engine light was on for about 2 minutes then gone. It keeps showing whenever I stopped in traffic light for 2 minutes


We will need to know that code. Is there an autozone near you that can read it for you?

It's unlikely Autozone, or any parts store will be able to read codes off that car. Usually they can only read codes off cars equipped with OBD-2. This car probably has some way of getting codes without a scanner though, where the check engine light will flash "Morse code" and you just count the flashes to get the code.
 
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: momo
Update:

Check engine light was on for about 2 minutes then gone. It keeps showing whenever I stopped in traffic light for 2 minutes


We will need to know that code. Is there an autozone near you that can read it for you?

It's unlikely Autozone, or any parts store will be able to read codes off that car. Usually they can only read codes off cars equipped with OBD-2. This car probably has some way of getting codes without a scanner though, where the check engine light will flash "Morse code" and you just count the flashes to get the code.


Good thinking, here is a link for how to read the obd-1 codes using a paperclip.

http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm-2-digit-obd-codes-free.php
 
Check that EGR. Those are usually disabled by mechanics. My Caprice had that issue and would get a an intermittent check engine light. Using the paperclip method revealed this. Found the EGR had been plugged with some kind of epoxy.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: momo
Update:

Check engine light was on for about 2 minutes then gone. It keeps showing whenever I stopped in traffic light for 2 minutes


We will need to know that code. Is there an autozone near you that can read it for you?

It's unlikely Autozone, or any parts store will be able to read codes off that car. Usually they can only read codes off cars equipped with OBD-2. This car probably has some way of getting codes without a scanner though, where the check engine light will flash "Morse code" and you just count the flashes to get the code.


Good thinking, here is a link for how to read the obd-1 codes using a paperclip.

http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm-2-digit-obd-codes-free.php


Thank you for sharing this
 
if this is indeed the olds 307(vin y)
the wires are shot if more than 3 years old.thats why i got mine cheap.it mimicked a tcc shudder.shop told the owner the transmission was shot.
there is a thermostatic vacuum switch that fails and puts manifold vacuum on the bowl vent of the carb.this is the cause of many emission test failures.
and the egr system plugs up without any help from anyone.
engine will ping badly and the average hack in a shop retards timing to stop the ping.then its a dog that wont get out of its own way.may have to pull intake to clear it.i ran a drill down the 2 nozzles under the carb and cleared mine.these need full egr flow and an idiot that disables it will cause severe drivability issues as well as failing NOX.
then the common quadrajet leakdown issue.and the foam float that sinks causing flooding.get a brass replacement if you go into the carb.
 
Update:

I pulled the codes from the car and I got two error codes (21) & (44). The below link indicates that (21- is throttle position sensor or circuit- voltage high) and (44- oxygen sensor or circuit - lean exhaust detected)
 
I'm going to guess that the sensor is not reading correctly, and the system is fattening out the mixture to try and compensate, leading to your load of unburnt hydrocarbons. Replace that 02 sensor. Might be impressed with the results.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
I'm going to guess that the sensor is not reading correctly, and the system is fattening out the mixture to try and compensate, leading to your load of unburnt hydrocarbons. Replace that 02 sensor. Might be impressed with the results.


Also, make sure the choke is coming off completely.
 
Update: The car passed the emission test with very good numbers. It turned out the problem was the carburetor running so rich. Tune it and here is the result:


 
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