Caliper question

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Thought I was down on power--turns out, I was dragging a brake. Pulled off the caliper, and one pad is worn more than the other (odd), pads are nice and free though. I put in the tool to compress the piston back in, and it didn't budge. I cracked the bleeder and was able to get a pinch of fluid out with more effort than it should take.

I took a pair of water pump pliers and attempted to twist the piston, and it wouldn't twist. Should it have a bit of twist?

I'd like to bust it loose--I'm not finding a caliper in stock and I kinda need the vehicle at the end of the holiday weekend. It's my Tundra, rear disc caliper, but it's a simple caliper setup (no integrated parking brake).

Edit: Looks like O'Reilly's is indicating in stock.
 
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Sure. But why is the piston hard to push back in?

I pulled the pins, and one was still nicely greased; the other had dried out, likely from the heat.
 
One answer is to just pump the piston out by applying the brakes. Once you have it out, you can see what sort of corrosion might be the issue, and if you can address it without a replacement caliper.

My guess is that a new/rebuilt is going to be your most efficient method to get back on the road.
 
I just had this happen on my Scion. I have had issues with the slides drying out and sticking. This time it was a caliper. I was able with great force to get it back in, but then it would not come back out. Replaced it and put new pads in it. Had issues with sticking slides until last time when I put new slide boots and switched from Permatex caliper grease to Sil-Gylde.
 
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You should not have to turn the caliper to compress it considering the parking brake is not integrated. as mentioned earlier, push it out by pressing the brake pedal and then clean the bore/piston. you may be able to just clean it up and reassemble if you're lucky.
 
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I've never pulled apart a caliper before. I don't know if a regular piston should be able to be twisted or not. I know I can push on the brake but I'm a bit leery of shooting the piston out and being in a worse position than before.

Just checked, and the lower caliper pin was greased but the grease has dried out--strange as it was fine a few months ago. But it clearly isn't sliding properly--top one slides easily, in and out, bottom needs a lot of force. I haven't figured out how to pull that apart so as to clean out the old grease and get it to slide.

Turns out NAPA has a caliper too, or at least they are indicating stock.
 
Some pistons need rotated to be pushed back in.. Late model Chrysler minivans for example. You even need a special tool.

That possibility aside, sounds like you caliper is cooked. Even if you get a giant C-clamp on it and finally get it to go, who's to say it won't simply get stuck again?

I would just buy a caliper.
 
Looked up how to rebuild calipers:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRUOChic7bc

Note, the guy above talks about using oil of all things to lube it. Whatever.

So I went and got a screwdriver, and stuck the handle in so the piston wouldn't shoot out. Stepped on brake, got a good "moderate" stopping pressure. Didn't move. Cranked on the pedal for all it was worth (panic mode!) and it came out halfway. Maybe. Still didn't hit the screwdriver. I can see rust inside the piston too, if I pull back the seal.

I think that's proof positive it needs rebuilding/replacing.
 
Crud! My closest NAPA closes in 8 minutes. Missed that it closed at 3. Not sure if the other NAPA ($94+$100 core) is better than Autozone Wearever ($96+68) or AAP Duralast ($159+50).
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
One pad wearing faster than the other typically indicates stuck slides.


Not if it doesn't have slides.


Tundra calipers are famous for this. Get a reman caliper.
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
One pad wearing faster than the other typically indicates stuck slides.


Not if it doesn't have slides.


Tundra calipers are famous for this. Get a reman caliper.


First I've heard of it. Oh well. Got one for both sides--will check it, and if it shows issues, replace it. If not, hmm, not sure if I will return or leave on the shelf.

Originally Posted By: OptimusPrime
Buy on-line from AAP & pick up in store. Use promotion code TRT30 for in the "Shopping Cart" for 30% off


Did Autozone, cheaper option, even with 30% off.

*

Made the trip in a record 45 minutes. Made the mistake of taking the kids *and the dog* with me. Got halfway before realizing I couldn't leave the kids nor the dog in the car. Luckily the place was not busy and I was in and out. Of course I had to gas the car, but not too bad: just shy of 2 hours for a parts run.
 
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Dude you ARE in the sticks.
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I have an Advance Auto, Autozone and a Federated parts store within walking distance of my home.
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Maybe it's a northeast thing only , but I have never seen stuck sliders. It's always the piston.

I always carry a C-Clamp. Just drive the piston(s) back in straight with a c-clamp. Do that a few times in and out and it usually will work for a bit longer to get you to a store.
 
One on, not done bleeding yet. Debating if I should replace the passenger side too. Piston sides in ok though. But dinner more important now.
 
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