control arm and ball joint - which brand to buy?

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Have you used this Westar brand before? I picked it up mainly due to it resembles better to the OE than any other brand. The MPV was discontinued in 2006, and i don't have much faith in OE part for this particular car based on experience. Yes i am gambling on this brand as i never had any experience with it. If any of you had bad experience, please share. I can still return. I did search the net, did not find any positive nor negative comments till now.
 
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No advice on parts. Some advice on R+R of suspension parts. Wear gloves and goggles. Esp gloves when breaking nuts. Your hands will thank you later.
 
Originally Posted By: windeye
Have you used this Westar brand before? I picked it up mainly due to it resembles better to the OE than any other brand. The MPV was discontinued in 2006, and i don't have much faith in OE part for this particular car based on experience. Yes i am gambling on this brand as i never had any experience with it. If any of you had bad experience, please share. I can still return. I did search the net, did not find any positive nor negative comments till now.


I too, have tried multiple brands of aftermarket mounts and none have been satisfactory. I cannot confirm that Westar was one of them, but I would not be concerned that the OE part for a discontinued vehicle is not the same as before. I get real OE parts for my dad's discontinued Previa from Toyota and they have been flawless.
 
Over the years I have tried them all, Westar, DEA, Anchor, Moog (no idea if Moog still makes them) and a few others, Most had increased vibration (bad) the ones that didn't failed sometimes within a very short time.
Believe me never use an aftermarket when OE is available not matter how much more it cost, you will be doing the job again soon.

Not only that but once its installed and fails they send you another under warranty, and another. The labor begins to gets to be a PITA, finally you cave toss it in the trash and buy the OE and do it once.
 
Food for thought. Why not buy the bushings for the control arm and a new ball joint? If it is a one piece unit you can unbolt the ball joint and push out the bushings and use quality bushing with the OEM metal. Unless the metal is warped somehow you can "upgrade" the control arm without having to sacrifice purchasing a lesser quality part. I am considering doing this for my Equinox. Buy moog problem solver ball joint and bushings and replace them on my original control arm metal. I can do this on rockauto for roughly 85 shipped which is cheaper than purchasing the whole unit.
 
bushing unit is welded to the arm, and the ball joint is pressed and welded as well to the arm. I have a Camry, the ball joint is attached to arm with 3 bolts. Mazdas are just a dog for repair, esp for the MPV. replacing the alternator requires taking out the drive shaft. On Mazda 3, replacing the passenger side control arm requires disconnecting passenger side motor mount and move the engine up. sigh. I am leaving the rusting of Mazdas out of the conversation.... but I loved how the car/van drive, and the MPV was the 1st to have second row window that can roll down back in 2000, when the big players all had fixed glass.

Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Food for thought. Why not buy the bushings for the control arm and a new ball joint? If it is a one piece unit you can unbolt the ball joint and push out the bushings and use quality bushing with the OEM metal. Unless the metal is warped somehow you can "upgrade" the control arm without having to sacrifice purchasing a lesser quality part. I am considering doing this for my Equinox. Buy moog problem solver ball joint and bushings and replace them on my original control arm metal. I can do this on rockauto for roughly 85 shipped which is cheaper than purchasing the whole unit.
 
Originally Posted By: windeye
bushing unit is welded to the arm, and the ball joint is pressed and welded as well to the arm. I have a Camry, the ball joint is attached to arm with 3 bolts. Mazdas are just a dog for repair, esp for the MPV. replacing the alternator requires taking out the drive shaft. On Mazda 3, replacing the passenger side control arm requires disconnecting passenger side motor mount and move the engine up. sigh. I am leaving the rusting of Mazdas out of the conversation.... but I loved how the car/van drive, and the MPV was the 1st to have second row window that can roll down back in 2000, when the big players all had fixed glass.

Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Food for thought. Why not buy the bushings for the control arm and a new ball joint? If it is a one piece unit you can unbolt the ball joint and push out the bushings and use quality bushing with the OEM metal. Unless the metal is warped somehow you can "upgrade" the control arm without having to sacrifice purchasing a lesser quality part. I am considering doing this for my Equinox. Buy moog problem solver ball joint and bushings and replace them on my original control arm metal. I can do this on rockauto for roughly 85 shipped which is cheaper than purchasing the whole unit.


Holy eff. That is nutty. Was not aware of that. Now I know what I am going to youtube tonight. Sounds interesting to watch. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: windeye
Mazdas are just a dog for repair, esp for the MPV. replacing the alternator requires taking out the drive shaft.


Yup, my Focus is the same. FoMoCo in their infinite wisdom also placed the alternator DIRECTLY above the exhaust manifold, so you can imagine how often they need replacement, and how difficult it is
frown.gif
 
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