Honda NC700X Red Line 10W30, ~5,000 miles

[bulwnkl]

This is Red Line's 10W30 motorcycle (shared sump) oil. It has around 5,000 miles on it, best I can recall/figure. Somehow, I didn't get the miles entered when I changed it. My NCX has 40,000 miles on it now. I bought it new in '12. It's a great bike that returns me great mpg and never breaks down. It's also simple and quick to do all routine maintenance on. Fram TG oil filter (same as my Honda pickup takes).

This run had a 2-up trip to Death Valley on it, in addition to my daily 75-mile round trip to work. The DV trip was rough. SUPER high winds, massive blowing dirt and sand, and temps ranging from very cold to just barely okay. Lots of WOT trying to pull hills and fight the wind as a result. I'm pleased with the result.

Fe 6
Cr 1
Pb 0
Cu 1
Sn 0
Al 7
Ni 2
Ag 0
Si 14
K 0
Na 17
B 12
Mg 16
Ca 2251
Ba 2
P 1543
Zn 2107
Mo 423
Ti 1
V 0

100C vis: 8.5
TAN 2.24
Water (KF) 322

4 mic 13238
6 mic 89
14 mic 6
21 mic 3
38 mic 1
70 mic 1
ISO 21/14/10

 

[Atesz792]

Looks good. Do you have the DCT version?

 

[bulwnkl]

No, std tranny. I really wanted the ABS, but didn't care about the DCT and the price spread was too large. If I was buying today, I'd _probably_ get the DCT/ABS version.

 

[bulwnkl]

Here's the out-of-the-bottle particle count from this oil:

4 mic 29178
6 mic 9931
14 mic 497
21 mic 131
38 mic 16
70 mic 6
ISO 22/20/16

The Fram filter clearly did a good job cleaning things up, even despite wear from the shared sump.

 

[hpb]

I won't pretend to know what the results mean, but I imagine the NC's are pretty easy on their oil, being such a low revving engine. I love mine (NC750S - the naked version the US missed out on, standard gearbox w/ABS).

 

[Mackelroy]

Very good report for 5,000 miles


That motor will last a very long time at that rate

 

[bulwnkl]

I'm closing on 5,000 miles on the new sump of oil, but I'm not going to change it at this point. I may or may not drain a quart or quart and a half and top it off, but I believe I'll let this new sump stay in for ~10k (Honda recommends 8k miles).

I failed to note or ask before: Who here noticed that this high-toughness oil still got beat down solidly into SAE20 territory, yet protected extremely well? With that in mind, why would one think it important to have a super-tough, high-VI's SAE40 in a bike for 'protection?'

 

[bulwnkl]

That^^^ was supposed to say "high-vis " oil.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: bulwnkl
...

I failed to note or ask before: Who here noticed that this high-toughness oil still got beat down solidly into SAE20 territory, yet protected extremely well? With that in mind, why would one think it important to have a super-tough, high-VI's SAE40 in a bike for 'protection?'


It simply brings back to my statements in other threads that we should use the oil recommended. Many bikes require 10/40 and others 20/50.
So the answer to "why" = because its what the maker of the engine recommends what the engine was designed to use.
I do not worry about shearing as the maker knows what is going on with their engine. So in your case, Honda knows the engine will shear into the 20s (most likely) and was designed for that.

Same goes for bikes that require 10/40, the maker knows the oil will shear to the 30s and 20/50 to the 40s.

I personally believe there is a lot more going on with oil then just what is reported in a UOA. Corrosion resistance, bikes with hydraulic valves will also require a certain weight etc. etc.
Again, if the maker recommends the weight, I dont get to caught up if the oil shears a certain amount, IF one is using the right grade but if you can find the same in an oil that shear less, then yes, I would go for that again, in the grade and weight recommended.
Shared sump bikes, certain oils to work better then others when it comes to shifting and shearing.

One variable that one could take into account is the weather conditions the bike operates with a bias towards a more robust oil in super hot climates, as these recommendations are based on average tempatures across a very large country. Some manuals do give options for oil weight.

 

[bulwnkl]

I think I know what you mean. However, I believe you've just asserted exactly the thing I'm questioning.
This statement:
Quote:
but if you can find the same in an oil that shear less, then yes, I would go for that


Appears to me to contradict the theme of your post a little.

There are some (many?) here who harp on how bikes _need_ higher viscosity. They insinuate a lot, but at least in recent years post little or no substance. I didn't exactly figure they'd want any part of this report or question, but I thought the question worth asking anyway.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: bulwnkl
I think I know what you mean. However, I believe you've just asserted exactly the thing I'm questioning.
This statement:
Quote:
but if you can find the same in an oil that shear less, then yes, I would go for that


Appears to me to contradict the theme of your post a little.

There are some (many?) here who harp on how bikes _need_ higher viscosity. They insinuate a lot, but at least in recent years post little or no substance. I didn't exactly figure they'd want any part of this report or question, but I thought the question worth asking anyway.


Contradict?
No, not really. As we all do in this forum, UOAs etc, etc.
If you can find an oil in the recommended oil grade that shears less vs an oil that shears more, why not choose that oil which will stay in grade better?

Just makes sense to me, even more so in shared sump bikes as a large percentage of riders, including myself on my past metrics, would notice a significant but not drastic decline in the way the bike shifts after 1500 or so miles due to the oil being a little thinner, this effect is felt to a greater degree in hot climates.
Less shear may (or may not) also indicate a more stable oil better oil, not necessarily less wear but im from the camp we are splitting hairs when comparing oils for wear, again, in the proper grade oil.

I have found in my past metrics,some of the most stable oils regarding shear, in the proper grade were simple conventional oils such as HEDOs and $4 a quart Valvoline Motorcycle oil vs an unrecommended Rotella syn 5/40.

No big deal, just explaining my thoughts. I dont think about it anymore as my RK does not have a shared sump and countless UOAs have shown my current oil a 15/50 to just about stay in grade. (borderline) between oil change intervals.

 

[benjy]

not one size does not fit all!!! oil choices should always take how + where we ride as ambient temperatures surely effect oil choice, even in water cooled engines!!!