RL D6 vs T-WS

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I usually refrain from using non-OEM ATF on my Toyotas, but I was shocked w/ the price of T-WS ($10.59+tax).
Would upgrading to D6 ($12.49) be worth the risk, any suggestions will help as I intend to flush my Lexus transmission via the return line
 
My cost on WS is around $7/qt - have you shopped around?

BTW I've had a lot of issues with setting the fluid level correctly on the U660 transmission, and this is even with using Techstream to monitor the fluid temp. The level is dependent upon the engine rpm (at idle) and the fluid temp. If you're in the beginning of the range (104f) vs the end (113f). Small differences in fluid volume can make a noticeable impact in shift quality. And the transmission takes a very long time to cool down to 104f if you miss the window.

Refilling with the same volume removed doesn't work either - the fluid expands when it's warm so if you refill with the same amount of cold fluid, you will overfill.

I'm inclined to say that you really need to buy the new Toyota SST ($600) if you want to set the level properly.
 
I have read up a lot about levels on sealed transmissions. I intend to extract 4Q at a time and after 2 attempts , 8Q is out and 8Q in.

I don't intend to check temperatures and do that tango dance - I intend to do it on a cold engine.

What came out goes back in totaling 8Q.
 
Maxlife is less than $5/qt and will be just as good
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
My cost on WS is around $7/qt - have you shopped around?

BTW I've had a lot of issues with setting the fluid level correctly on the U660 transmission, and this is even with using Techstream to monitor the fluid temp. The level is dependent upon the engine rpm (at idle) and the fluid temp. If you're in the beginning of the range (104f) vs the end (113f). Small differences in fluid volume can make a noticeable impact in shift quality. And the transmission takes a very long time to cool down to 104f if you miss the window.

Refilling with the same volume removed doesn't work either - the fluid expands when it's warm so if you refill with the same amount of cold fluid, you will overfill.

I'm inclined to say that you really need to buy the new Toyota SST ($600) if you want to set the level properly.


Keep hearing this all over. Why not drain cold( room temperature) and measure amount? Put new fluid at the same room temperature back in. What can go wrong? This is for drain and refill only and assumes the level was correct before Drain and fill.
 
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
I have read up a lot about levels on sealed transmissions. I intend to extract 4Q at a time and after 2 attempts , 8Q is out and 8Q in.

I don't intend to check temperatures and do that tango dance - I intend to do it on a cold engine.

What came out goes back in totaling 8Q.


It's your decision, but I would verify the fluid level regardless of your method. Even the original factory method of checking between 104-113F is better than not checking at all. On certain models, there is a shifter sequence that will allow you to activate the fluid checking mode, but I'm not sure if that's available on the ES.

The problem with your approach is that a pan drain does not remove very much on these units - so you probably won't be draining 4 quarts. At least on the RX vehicles, pulling the cooler lines (w/o turning on the engine) will drain a lot of fluid. But if you have to turn on the engine at any point, the fluid temperature will rise quickly and you will run into the volume issues that I mentioned earlier.

Originally Posted By: TTK
Keep hearing this all over. Why not drain cold( room temperature) and measure amount? Put new fluid at the same room temperature back in. What can go wrong? This is for drain and refill only and assumes the level was correct before Drain and fill.


This may work for DIYer, assuming that the fluid level was correct to begin with (it isn't always, even from the factory). Also, the method only works if you can let the car cool overnight, and you are only doing 1 drain and refill.
 
Critic, I don't intend to even open the drain bolt, I am going to use the return line to flush. Now the engine pumps out 4Q is no more than 90sec, stop, fill 4Q, start again till 4Q comes out, fill 4Q in and done (the capacity of the unit is 8Q).

How could the ATF temperature possible rise in a matter of 3 min total.? Is there anything wrong in this process.

I possibly cannot level a monster this heavy in the front in my garage, I will never ever get it right. Only when I get the car level does all that zumba dance kick in, like temperature checking and what not.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic

Originally Posted By: TTK
Keep hearing this all over. Why not drain cold( room temperature) and measure amount? Put new fluid at the same room temperature back in. What can go wrong? This is for drain and refill only and assumes the level was correct before Drain and fill.


This may work for DIYer, assuming that the fluid level was correct to begin with (it isn't always, even from the factory). Also, the method only works if you can let the car cool overnight, and you are only doing 1 drain and refill.


Correct, except you can do multiple drains and refills after driving when you let the trans cool down to room temperature. Just repeat the process.
 
The thread was about fluid and not the process, can a fluid expert chime in and keep this thread only to discuss among the two fluids.
 
I have done this a few times on my 2010 RX 350 using Mag One low viscosity synthetic ATF, which I learned about in some other thread here. Got it at Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Mag-64092-6PK-Multi-Vehicle-Viscosity-Transmission/dp/B00DE7LVSG

It works great.

With regard to the drain and fill, I previously had a 2008 MINI Cooper S with a similar Aisin automatic which needed the same insane dance to balance the fluid level. While a member of the MINI forum we worked out among us a similar cold fluid drain and fill technique to was discussed above. Like the RX, the MINI only drained about 2 quarts at a time. I always did it cold after sitting overnight in my garage with the fluid at the same temp and carefully measuring the amounts out and in. I have followed the same procedure with the RX with success. I initially did 2 drain and fills, at about 38,000 followed by a third at about 42000. I think I may even install a Magnefine filter I have laying around that happens to be the correct 3/8 size.
 
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
I usually refrain from using non-OEM ATF on my Toyotas, but I was shocked w/ the price of T-WS ($10.59+tax).
Would upgrading to D6 ($12.49) be worth the risk, any suggestions will help as I intend to flush my Lexus transmission via the return line



IMHO the Redllne D6 is a step above WS n terms of longevity and stability.
 
Boss302fan said:
On the next drain and fill, Maxlife or D6 will go into my 2006 Lexus LS430. [/quote

I doubt you can use D6, your Lexus may be spaced for T-IV, which would be D4 RL ATF or Maxlife.
 
Flushed transmission with D6 via return line.

The old ATF was close to engine oil, not sure how to post pictures on this forum.

The smell of the new ATF is quite pungent (like a skunk) and my family refused to get into the car and the car drives just fine!!
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
IMHO the Redllne D6 is a step above WS n terms of longevity and stability.


I will keep that in mind when service comes due on our Toyota!
Do you feel the same way about D6 vs. Honda DW-1?
 
Update after 2 months on RL D6...

I am loosing 2MPG with D6 but the shifts are just fine and temperature is within limits. Driving conditions is the same.
There is an occassional shudder which D6 which wasn't there on with WS.
 
Originally Posted By: bulwnkl
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
IMHO the Redllne D6 is a step above WS n terms of longevity and stability.


I will keep that in mind when service comes due on our Toyota!
Do you feel the same way about D6 vs. Honda DW-1?


I do.
 
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Update after 2 months on RL D6...

I am loosing 2MPG with D6 but the shifts are just fine and temperature is within limits. Driving conditions is the same.
There is an occassional shudder which D6 which wasn't there on with WS.


I have never heard of any change in mpg by changing fluids. These fluids are all 6.0 cSt LV AT fluids.

Shudder or shift delay?

A worn oil pump can leak and not supply a high enough pressure to fully engage the internal piston actuators.

You might want to have a transmission facility check pressures.
 
Check out the Odyessy.net forums and there is one poster who used D6 (in place of DW) and lost 5MPG.

The poster eventually went back to DW for his Odyessy, I would refrain from D6 if you have a Honda transmission.

BTW, my vehiche is relatively new with only 50K on the odometer, I doubt pressures are playing a role here.

I do get 23-24MPG on steptronic (S mode), I believe the torque lock up could be lazy in full-auto.
 
I've used D6 and Amsoil equivalent and had no issues. Redline is owned by Chevron now so would be extremely shocked that it would cause sudden loss of mpg or not suitable for what they say it is.
 
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